[T5 TDI]

Yes the AXD and AXE would be the same job. Mind you, I'm not breaking any bits of my engine so I'll be using Festa's tip when the time comes.

 

[-j-]

Yea, only difference is the turbos 👌🏻

 

[west0ne]

Is it the same on a bnz?

 

[-j-]

I believe they share the same block but I’ve not looked in an engine bay of one to be sure the same method would work.

 

[Cgielectrical]

Thanks guys.

I've seen a couple of guides on changing the cam, but would appreciate any more info before I start. Anyone have any saved links they could easily share with me please? or what's the best term to search with? When I search "Camshaft" I get pages of results and most are to do with diagnosing the prob.

Also, anyone in Melbourne willing to share / hire the camshaft locking kit?

P.S. Van is late 2004 and has 193k on the clock. This is the first major trouble I've had with it, so I don't think I've done too bad at all. I even shipped it here to Oz when I emigrated 10 years ago and those four rolls of loft insulation wedged in each corner of the container were the best 100 quid investment I ever made! (I dread to think how bashed up she would've been without them after I saw the tilt the forkies used moving the container around the bumpy yard)

Love the ol' girl too much to let this camshaft rain on my parade.

 

[festa]

AXD/E and BNZ/PC is the same block other that a couple of small changes you won't see unless the two blocks are together however....the inlet manifold on the early engine sits further away from the front of the engine over the later engine. That then gives more room behind the inlet manifold to get to the bolts after the accoustic plastic cover is off. If this is broken to get the top off without removing the manifold the ccv valve on the top wont seal correctly as it requires the outer cover to produce a full seal. It's not a down side if you like the smell of oil vapour in the cab.

 

[Cgielectrical]

I released the lock carrier at either end and held 'open' with a wooden wedge, then undid the 4 fixings holding the rad fan on and with a bit of a fight the fan was out of the van and I had access to all the required manifold bolts.

Hi J, I tried this, but I'm a bit confused. When you say you released the "lock carrier", can you explain a bit more please?
I took the bumper off, pushed the rad forward and got the fan out through that gap, is that how you did it?

 

[Bennymassive]

I presume they mean the slam panel. There are a couple of bolts either side (near the battery and same position on the o/s). Then you need to undo a bolt either side of the engine bay and another 6 or 8 bolts attaching the slam panel to the chassis. If you screw in some threaded rod into the lower bolt holes (I think M8, but you would need to check), you can then slide the slam panel forward to give more room. If you have managed to get the fan out and don't need anymore room to remove the inlet manifold, then don't bother.

 

[Cgielectrical]

Thanks Benny. Now I'm just compiling the list of parts for the hydraulic lifters replacement. I got the specialised tool kit today and I thought I may as well change the gates coupling on the alternator whilst here too.

 

[Bennymassive]

It's time consuming, putting it in the service position, so might as well change the gates coupling, if you can get at it.

 

[Bennymassive]

The injector loom brakes down over time, so I would replace that as well if you haven't done so recently.

 

[T5 TDI]

The freewheel on the alternator (and A/C) as well as the Gates couplings. If it is over 120k you could change the the G62 coolant sensor because if that fails later it's front off again. Still really awkward to get at even with the front off. It's about £55. (Genuine VW only available when I looked).