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Somebody stop me!
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Is there an easy way or simple method to removing the front anti roll bar for upgrade?? I have upgraded the front end to a later setup bud stupidly didn't swap the anti roll bar and now i cant get wiggle it out :bhd:bhd:bhd:bhd:bhd

I cant bear the thought of having the entire front end in bits again, there must be an easy way of doing this!

Help please !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :ILU::ILU::ILU::ILU:
 

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Somebody stop me!
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11,968 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I changed mine by unbolting the steering rack and wiggling the ARB out taking one end forward of the hub. Bit of a struggle but it will come out without a major strip down.
Thanks mate, i'm tempted to cut the woefully tiny anti roll bar in half to be honest but i guess i'm still going to need to move the rack forward to fit the new one anyway?? Just ordered the purple torsion bars and matching ARB from ebay (80 notes to my door, bargain), any hints to swapping it out gratefully received bud T:T:T:
 

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Sounds like a good deal.
Is the ARB actually a 27mm? (identified by screw in drop links as pictured on post #56 of my build thread). If not it will be the same size as the one you've got. You will need the matching 27mm ARB bushes to fit the bigger bar.
Make sure that you've got the right size ring spanner to get the torsion bar bolts undone as they are really tight, an open ender is likely to round them and it's difficult to get a socket in there.
It is a bit like a Chinese Puzzle but the ARB will come out with the rack free of its mounts and pushed forward.....its just a bit of a struggle and best attempted with an extra pair of hands and eyes to manipulate the other end of the bar.
Mind that you don't damage the power steering pipes too.
Best of luck.......it's worth it.T:
 

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Only the rack was moved; the subframe wasn't touched. Looks like the ARB is a standard one but the torsion bars are a good upgrade on their own and improve the roll stiffness a bit. Keep an eye out for a flatbed being broken for spares as they usually have the 27mm front ARB and a 26mm rear ARB.
 

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Somebody stop me!
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Only the rack was moved; the subframe wasn't touched. Looks like the ARB is a standard one but the torsion bars are a good upgrade on their own and improve the roll stiffness a bit. Keep an eye out for a flatbed being broken for spares as they usually have the 27mm front ARB and a 26mm rear ARB.
Got most of the bits for the rear arb already from VW, just awaiting the bar itself which is on backorder and taking forever to get here. Do you have to drop the tank to replace the torsion bars and if you do how do you detach and re attach the filler?? Thanks for all your help bud, if the Cupra R is going i want the van to be spot on for my B road commute T:T:T:
 

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The tank sender unit needs lifting out and the tank must be removed (a lot easier with two pairs of hands and an empty tank). The filler is attached I think by a single screw inside the filler flap. The exhaust needs dropping and it's front heat shield taking down too.
 

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Somebody stop me!
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Tried to get to the rack bolts today and no joy. The pipes for the rear heater that was once on the van are in the way and i cant get to it. Any other tips or an i bet to wait until the van is up on the 2 post lift??
 
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