[Jim Doodle]

Repair door lock spring

Common problem with T4 with central locking is the breaking of the spring in the lock , the lock button when unlocked door in the top holds the position. Without intact spring, the locking knob for light vibrations (eg the actuation of the door handle back down ') fall', which leads to a locking of all doors over the central leads.

Operation
If this happens, you can manage to repair it, that one of the locking button to open the door clings, or that one to open the door first with the central locking and then unlocking the boot and the knob opens the door locked.

Unfortunately, this spring is not available as spare parts. So if you want an original spring must complete the castle get at VW. You can use the pen but by a self bebastelte spring (eg from a ballpoint pen or the pen of a key ring) to replace it.

Installation

The following pictures of Thomas Vöth show detailed pictures of the location, he has made in the repair of the spring and for the T4 Wiki provided:

Spring

The spring is factory from 1 mm thick spring steel. It has about 1.5 turns, which are the ends of V-shape. The bent parts, which are used to fix the castle, have a length of about 5 mm.

Dimensions of the spring

Because for the spring at the mounting sufficient space available to, the mass can be varied in a replica rather generously. It is primarily to ensure that the spring is not thick, so that it between the moving parts of the castle still has game. The following picture shows one of a pen of a key ring made of spring with a diameter of about 13 mm.

Replica pen

A tip from the T4-Forum by Eric2000 is, spring rolls from a stainless steel needle of flare make the man. It has exactly the right cross section, and the spring, turn with a diameter of about 1 cm and with a twist.

Another tip (Eggi204) is wound end 'of a sufficiently large safety pin to take the'. The diameter will then adjust the same, and the ends can bend easily. Or tinkering - as Arthur Dent - the spring from the spring wire, the one the "hand holders" of paper files found in:

Spring wire, sheet holder

This simple wire wound around a pencil or a correspondingly large screw, bent the ends and finished.

Repair

Notes:

• For the first exchange the remains of the broken spring can be removed completely. It should take particular care to, that no parts get jammed in the lock mechanism.
• Region of the spring grease after installation.

Tools:

• Various pliers for manufacturing and installation of the spring
• Screwdriver

Steps:

1. Remove Lock.
2. Completely remove old spring clean installation.
3. To facilitate the onset of spring, you can bend the mechanics carefully with a
   screwdriver.
   
   
   Mechanics Bend
4. Spring to the first in the lower intake.
   
   
   Spring to the bottom
5. Spring with pliers and / or screwdriver into the upper intake tow ''.
6. If necessary. Mechanics back together.
7. Spring with grease from the castle grease.

Source: http://www.t4-wiki.de/wiki/Türschloss_(Feder_reparieren)
Translated: Googlle.com

 

[grahamf]

good guide, not the best translation though.
i had this a few months ago, i used the spring from a clothes peg.
www.cadyou.com/thumbs/1229452293.skp.jpg

 

[6jimbot]

Just replaced my spring using a metal pin from a lever arch file claamp. Worked a treat! Pin was probably too thick as it snaps open and closed now. Paperclip or safety pin girth would probably be best- but I wasn't removing it again. Fiddly to get back in!T:

 

[midmounted]

Thank's Jim T:

I just used this thread to fix my lock, the door pin was dropping everytime I closed the door and it was driving me mad

Made it so much easier with the pictures too very pleased now :jmpg

 

[davehall61]

Thanks for the info, just another question for you I removed the door panels and disconected the plug to the locking mechanism. The only thing is when I shut the drivers door you can't open it from the inside with the pull handle you have to open the window put the key in and pull the outside door handle, does this sound like part of the same problem

 

[xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxscamba]

Thank you for the right up. Just fixed mine with a paper clip.

 

[p189362]

Thanks for posting this. I fixed my door lock using the method described with the wire from a clothes peg. Very fiddly job but works well. Only problem is I snapped the small plastic housing that connects the inside door lever rod to the door lock which has made the inside lever/latch non usable. Any idea where I can get hold of some of these little plastic beauties?

 

[p189362]

Can anyone tell me where I can buy some of the small white plastic rod connectors as shown in the above photographs. Whilst refitting my door lock I snapped the plastic connector that attached the interior door latch rod to the lock.

 

[midmounted]

If you can't find them on ebay it could mean a trip to a VW stealership shouldn't be too expensive though!

 

[walcap]

I was just wondering how you actually get the lock mechanism out of the door, there is a stiffener in the door past which it will not come!

 

[bond4353]

Right, at the risk of looking daft i'm still not geting this...

Clearly the home made spring has to be put in under tension to work, but where exactly do the two ends of the spring actually fit?



It's driving me mad.

 

[walcap]

I'm just wondering what is the secret of extracting the lock from between the inner and outer skin of the door, I can't seem to winkle it out!

 

[CUMBRIA LAD]

fixed mine today using a large paper clip

WALCAP - removal, twist it, inside towards the front first but is tight as my window rubber in the way, worse getting it back in & keeping the plastic cover attached, I attached the long inside handle rod after (left the nylon insert in), need all the small holes to see & push it back in

BOND - the spring, the projecting lugs go in the 2 holes, when rod is up the distance between the holes is max but less than the lugs when untensioned they force it up.
when you press down, the spring is compressed as the hole distance decreases until it starts to increase again (the holes sort of pass each other) & the spring can then open & force it down.
it's tight to force in the spring & lugs, I made 1 end smaller diameter so it tucks inside the other & then springs sideways into the second hole
as the article suggests it's a case of getting the lug c/c (spring diameter) right

hope some of the above makes sense
GL

 

[workshop05]

I have the broken spring (or could it have dropped out!) problem on my drivers side T4. Seems that I have to remove inside panel to get the lock out. How do I do this without breaking the clips? Thanks for any help:*

 

[SandraBuchholtz]

Repairing door locks is not easy. But locksmith service is here to assist you with this matter.
Rekey Beaverton

 

[Vandermover]

I have the broken spring (or could it have dropped out!) problem on my drivers side T4. Seems that I have to remove inside panel to get the lock out. How do I do this without breaking the clips? Thanks for any help:*

Hi, Have a look at this thread.
http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=208142
Regards Simon.

 

[Dan1980]

My central locking works fine from the passengers side, but every time I unlock the door from the drivers side it locks its self again. Would this fix it or is it something different ?

 

[kernewek]

Excellent thread, was a great help when sorting my Velle lock today. The most awkward part was refitting the rod for the inside door handle. I found that removing the outside handle gives a clear view of where the plastic bush at end of the rod fits into the locking mech. Worth ordering a couple of spare plastic bushes beforehand as they aren't the most robust thing in the world...

Craig

 

[bluefloyd]

For those thinking about doing this who are not massively confident, it is not as easy as some make out on this forum. I'm not attacking in anyway the help offered - this is a great forum full of excellent resources, however having spent hours trying to do this I couldn't get it to work.

Removing the door panel is easy, Getting the lock in and out is a pain but not too difficult, the main issue is all of the small plastic clips in the locking mechanism and on the rods, they don't like being forced. Be prepared and for the sake of a few pounds get some spare white plastic clips like these:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-T4-Cen...753?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4170726e39

I didn't and have now got both, dropping lock, and disconnected interior handle - really wish I handn't bothered! When I go back to reconnect the interior handle I think I will try and connect the top rod last of all, this makes getting the lock in and out easier and saves breaking the retaining clip again! Having said that it's not going to be easy, you can just about sight it but the final fitting would have to be feel alone.

 

[random]

i didnt have any problems at all, passenger side took at most 35mins and drivers 25mins and prob took that long cause i had some issues with the electric window switch,
the hardest part i found was making the spring but after doing that the first time the second was easy enough, maybe a case of doing it in a certain order :*

first off i took the door handles off (i dont know if this is necessary but its easy to do and all the room the better), take the first two screws out on the side of the door and give the handle a bit of a jiggle and she comes out fairly easy,

the take all the screws out of the locking mechanism leaving the rods still connected, you need to hold the locking mech from where it would lock onto the body of the van just so it doesn't drop when all the screws are out,
so once its loose youll have a bit more space to detach the rod that comes from the bottom actuator if you have one and get at the one at the top,
on my passenger side the top one came off easy but on the drivers i left it in and took the mech out with it still attached, and i left the one for the door knob in.
i let the mech sit down on the central bar of the door where you seem to have a bit more room and the twist and pull the mech out, it will only come out one way.

when you've got it out and made your spring which doesn't have to be brilliant as it doesn't work as a spring as such it just adds resistance so the door knob doesn't fall down when in the open position (thats the way it looked to me anyway)
i dont think there's any way of getting the spring in where it needs to go with out prizing them two leafs apart as in Jim Doodles picture

prize it apart just a bit then when you got the spring in just squeeze em back together. I would have a little play you should notice the resistance now and it should be fairly smooth

then reverse order getting it back in,
sit it on the middle bar of the door twist and push it in, lift it up so its almost in position and then reattach the rods, once its in position you'll struggle like hell to get them rods in its a bit fiddly but not to bad, once the rods are in hold it in place and put the screws back in and handle back on. hopefully job done.
tools i used a Leathermans, a pair of long nose pliers and a phillips 3 to take the screws out the door

hope it helps