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can anybody give me a suggestion how can I bypass the shut-off solenoid on the fuel pump to see if this is the problem why my engine won't start anymore?

Regards.
 

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You have to break off the plastic box, cut wires that go to circuit board, remove and chuck
circuit board join wires together and tape up spare wire. seal joined wires well to keep
water out. job done.
 

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can anybody give me a suggestion how can I bypass the shut-off solenoid on the fuel pump to see if this is the problem why my engine won't start anymore?

Regards.
Take 12v straight from the battery to the solenoid,, if it starts you have a faulty immobilizer.

Discount the +12v to turn the engine off T:

i fitted a new relay and control circuit
 

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Can anybody help, I have a syncro type AAB engine, which I think has faulty solenoid fuel shutoff. How do i replace the shutoff
Valve under the plastic cover.?
 

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Personally i don't think its a good idea posting up on a open forum page how to bypass the shut of solenoid for the world to read surley better sent by pm. Just my opinion as i would like to keep my van safe
 

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On mine the grey\white wire had broken some time but was still working. Until one day it never so checked with the ignition there wapower at both the other was blk/grn and there was so I cut hacked and drill the face off the black box which was full of a silicone type substance the circuit board had two wires leading out a grn at the bottom blk at the top I soldered both the grey wire to the bottom and blk/grn to the top still no joy so I took the grey off and happy days for a while hope this helps
 

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The shut off solenoid is completely seperate from the immobiliser. Some vans including mine only have a shut off solenoid and did not come with an immobiliser. I wouldn't worry too much about this info being on a forum. All you need to do is google or YouTube it and it's all over the net. Solenoid is an easy fix btw.
 

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So just to clarify as ive been following this and I need to do it. the two wires that go into the cicuit board need to be joined together before they go into the black box thingy, the cicuit board removed and discarded over the shoulder or in the bin and the green wire that lives inside the black box thingy needs a 12 volt live fed to it that prefrably turns off with the ignition.
I can see why some people won't want to say pride and joy n all that but it is a lot of work to nick posibly one off the slowest vehicles on the road" get into the cab pop the bonnet remove front panel join wires etc all in the dark ! more tan likely. "
But I don't Know thats why I'm asking.
 

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Before chopping away at anything...........
And I have said this before
MAKE SURE IT'S NOT YOUR IGNITION SWITCH AT FAULT FIRST
When faulty you turn ign on and it energises the solenoid coil to lift the plunger
When you turn to the crank position the feed to the solenoid breaks and closes the solenoid and hence crank but no fuel/start

How to test this

SELECT NEUTRAL AND APPLY HANDBRAKE
Turn ignition ON
locate and disconnect the starter motor solenoid wire
bridge a wire between battery positive and the terminal now exposed on the starter motor
engine will crank and if stop solenoid is working correctly it will start
 

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That is a very valid point ironhead !
The garage I got the van from had left it in bits fuse box cover off etc and and he assured me it was the electrics on the side of the pump. They wern't lying I just got stuck in with a hammer and a screwdriver initially taking half the box off and and putting a live to the wrong wire ( that got HOT ! ) and blew off leaving me with nowt sticking out of the box then I got agricultural on it and broke it off completely along with the top of the solenoid but got it all sorted in the end.
 

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Don't forget the solinoid it's self I removed mine today and the plunger part stayed in the pump, meaning that the pump fuel supply was constantly cut. Ps I also have had 3 switches go in the past! So very common I'd say....
 

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Well that woke up an old thread 18 months old ....................
The plunger WILL stay in the pump when you remove the solenoid as its a 3 piece affair , solenoid , spring and plunger.
The plunger is down ie in the pump under spring pressure until solenoid is energised from ignition switch when it is then lifted to allow fuel flow
 

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I would love to find this 18 months old thread (or 8 year old thread now !)
I have same problem removed the solenoid and yes it is in three parts I have solenoid and spring unfortunately the plunger is stuck fast in the pump as the previous posters obviously was. Am still trying to remove it but do not think the plunger is supposed to be stuck in like that and it is not in there under spring pressure as I have the tiny spring. My suspicion is the nylon end of the plunger with age rots and just sticks in causing loss of fuelling. Nightmare to get out am hoping I do not have to remove the pump but it may be the case:(
 
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