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Discussion Starter #1
I have an issue where I have daylight showing almost along the entire bottom length of the sliding door after having it replaced (new replacement rubber seal already fitted). I replaced the bottom roller as the old one was seized but after swapping doors, the daylight gap has appeared. it was adjusted as best as could be when fitting it to get it lined up right but the gap is letting in a lot of road noise. I have seen on ebay some "short arm" bottom rollers, are these made for a specific door, model or what? I'm thinking this might solve the issue if it pulls the bottom of the door in further but don't want to buy one having already bought the standard replacement arm incase it's either for a wrong door/model/fitment etc? I don't know if the new door came off a caravelle or a normal panel van and am also unsure if this would make any difference to the fitment so was just after advice on anyone who's used the "short arm roller" and why it was used and if it pulls the bottom of the door in further?
 

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I have an issue where I have daylight showing almost along the entire bottom length of the sliding door after having it replaced (new replacement rubber seal already fitted). I replaced the bottom roller as the old one was seized but after swapping doors, the daylight gap has appeared. it was adjusted as best as could be when fitting it to get it lined up right but the gap is letting in a lot of road noise. I have seen on ebay some "short arm" bottom rollers, are these made for a specific door, model or what? I'm thinking this might solve the issue if it pulls the bottom of the door in further but don't want to buy one having already bought the standard replacement arm incase it's either for a wrong door/model/fitment etc? I don't know if the new door came off a caravelle or a normal panel van and am also unsure if this would make any difference to the fitment so was just after advice on anyone who's used the "short arm roller" and why it was used and if it pulls the bottom of the door in further?
Logic would dictate that yes it would pull the door in, but then what about the panel alignment (not just the shut gaps)? Sliding door adjustment can be a bit of a dark art :wzd

Also the Transporter and passenger vehicles use a different door seal ;)
 

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Agreed on the door alignment, i'm still working on my alignment about a year after I took it off. :eek:

Every time I fiddle I get a little closer to 'right'

Check the lines on the other panels as previously mentioned. Is it all the way along the bottom that there is a gap or at one side?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Its all the way along the bottom, getting worse towards the back to the point I can slide my hand between the door and frame at the back. I've managed to cut some of the road noise down for now by putting some rubber strip seal around the bottom of the door itself so that pushes against the frame seal when closed but its still not ideal nor does it close the gap off completely and may lead to water renention at the door bottom and rusting. I just didn't know if the short arm bracket would solve this gap without throwing the full door alignment out and cant see many people mentioning the short bracket in posts on the forum (or elsewhere).
 

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The short arm lowers are for mk1 T4's, as yours is a fancy modern one with one piece bumpers and tdi engine & that, then they are not for yours. The right-angle mounting plate on the door is different, so I don't believe they interchange anyway. Door alignment is a dark art, which I have mastered approx 90%.
 
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