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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi whats the best way to smooyh in my splitter , its bonded with tiger seal so can I just blend it in with this or do I need body filler cheers j
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
just think it will look better without the join
j
 

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I'm in the process of blending a splitter to a standard commercial bumper. I didn't want to see a join line so bought a 'spare' dimpled black bumper off eBay in case I messed my nice colour coded one up. So I also had the complication of smoothing & colour coding it.

All the research says that you stick body panels on with Tiger seal / sikaflex 221 - but I've found that when you feather the splitter down to blend it the exposed Sikaflex is a nightmare to fill (epoxy) sand as it's flexible . I've had to dig it all out where exposed as I couldn't get rid of the line. I've re- filled it locally with filler - and would probably just stick it with epoxy filler next time to avoid the problem. I've also screwed mine with stainless self tappers which have been countersunk in and filled over.

At the moment it's about 99% blended with only the slightest witness mark showing through the primer - and I'm hoping a second coat of primer filler will lose this. If it works out I'll post some pictures up - but couldn't find much on this when I tried to research the subject. I'd love to know how the professionals do it........
 

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Seing as its raining today & I can't work on my bumper OR fit my newly delivered -40 H&Rs Grrr - I thought i would try & post a few pics of my progress so far...... When I researched this I could only find stuff on using body filler to repair dents OR sticking body panels on with Sikoflex 221 or Tiger Seal..

Bought a GRP splitter & a black dimpled bumper off eBay - Bumper £35. Fettled the splitter; screwed & glued it on with Sikoflex; sanded filled to merge. I didn't want a join line so tried to merge it to the existing split line in the bumper. Sanded most of the dimples off the bumper.


Detail showing side filled & merged to split line....


Feathering the GRP out was a pain as when the Sikoflex was exposed it wouldn't sand without leaving a ridge because of its flexibility. I had to pick it out - refill & re-sand... Next time I would just use Epoxy filler to glue it as well as to do the filling.

Progress so far....


Another coat of filler primer to go on - but 99% happy with merge so far.........
 

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Hi Jays

I blended mine in when I did this mod tiger seal or sikaflex as per others suggestions.
Definately make sure theres no sealer where you are going to fill, If i can make a suggestion get yourself a fibreglass filler for the 1st coat to take up the main difference in the depth between the spoiler & bumper otherwise you'll use a fair amount of filler & it may crack. Buzz that down then go over with filler as required then finish off with a stopper to take out any pin holes.....

I made up a couple of side pieces when I made mine a simple job which will finish it off a treat there is a bit on my thread if it'll helpT:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thanks for the replies , I know what to get now :) just need van back and some good weather :)
cheers j
 

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Anyone blended in rear bumper splitter like this? I was about to try body filler and sanding it out. Dont really want to sand away the lip of the splitter itself as I feel it will be too thin and flimsy perhaps?
 

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Dig some sealer out with a Stanley blade and plastic weld the join with a soldering iron would be better with an actual plastic welder but does the job. then fill with bumper filler(u-pol706) as it is flex able compared to standard bodyfiller. That's how I would go about it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Dig some sealer out with a Stanley blade and plastic weld the join with a soldering iron would be better with an actual plastic welder but does the job. then fill with bumper filler(u-pol706) as it is flex able compared to standard bodyfiller. That's how I would go about it.
do you mean run a soldering iron around the edge of the splitter so it melts abit ?
j
 

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Kind of like welding but with a soldering iron and melt the two parts together in like a stabbing motion. You don't want to go through the plastic parts but in about halfway. if you can find another bit of the same plastic to use as a filler rod(you will find the name of plastic stamped on the inside of the bumper. abs,pp ect) and melt that in aswel. will help in adding strength. then sand down usualy 80 grit sand paper and fill the little imperfections.with filler. sand 180 grit then 320 then 500 depending on the highbuild primer you are using. if you use a straight edge to sand like a sanding block or a thin bit of wood or metal might work to keep the edge. remember you will need a plastic primer then highbuild primer. then flatten primer with 800 wetordry paper.(wet) fill any imperfections(pinholes) with filler and wet sand again the filler. then paint. does that help?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
yes mate cheersT:
j
 

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Some good ideas here....
There is a good range of aluminium mesh on eBay - for the apertures - whole lot of sized holes in black or silver. I got some from Poland (delivery was impressively tracked across Europe) and much cheaper than Halfrauds.

In terms of blending the splitters - I think it depends on the material they are made from. Fibreglass or ABS. Fibreglass is much harder and more difficult to blend into the softer filler. ABS is softer - easier to work and I would assume easier to blend. Fibreglass also could not be melted to 'weld' it on..

As for the filler - Isopon & plastic padding I am used to but when I got some recently there seemed to be at least 3different typed of U-Pol ones with very similar uses on the tin. which is best?
 

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I have only used u-pol 706. so can only comment on that. It is good stuff same as used in my local bodyshop. Plastic padding. is that not gelcoat filler? not sure. A decent highbuild filler primer always helps with imperfections. Didn't think to ask if it was plastic or grp splitter. plastic to plastic can be welded but grp to plastic is not weldable. is it a grp splitter?
 
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