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Discussion Starter #1
May be a really dumb question, but have some steels that use the centre caps with the small logo. They have 2 small holes next to each other at the edge, which I assume is to hold them on with...a tie wrap, or something?

Just can't see where to attach.......the attachment! The centre of the wheel only has the holes for the bolts.

Help!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi hugabug, it is the square hole wheels I am putting them on. I get that they push on, but each one has 2 small holes on the black centre cap which I assumed is to make sure they don't fling off at higher speeds? Like putting tie wraps on your hub caps?

If you look at the photo, the black cap has 2 small holes. Are these for securing them for secruity reasons?



What are the 2 small holes for?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
...sorry didn't even see your reply Grey n Grumpy! I suppose I just want to know what those 2 small holes are for on each centre trim!
 

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Hi hugabug, it is the square hole wheels I am putting them on. I get that they push on, but each one has 2 small holes on the black centre cap which I assumed is to make sure they don't fling off at higher speeds? Like putting tie wraps on your hub caps?

If you look at the photo, the black cap has 2 small holes. Are these for securing them for secruity reasons?



What are the 2 small holes for?
They are there to allow removal with the special bent bit of wire removal tool!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ah right, so it has nothing to do with keeping them on?

It is my new wheel set up, so have never actually put them onto a wheel. I take it that, since you need a special bit of wire removal tool, that they stay on pretty well?
 

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They need a good thump with the side of your fist to get them on. And once they're on they're secure enough not to need anything else. But they'll only fit over original 19mm hex head and radius seat wheel bolts. If you've got 20 of them you're sorted.

They look very smart. Did you have them powder coated?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok thanks for the info. I ordered standrd T4 steel wheel bolts through Colese. It is turning into a bit of a saga now, have to make another post.

The steels are original factory finish. I always wanted the original wheels back on, but obviously always had trouble getting a nice set at the age they are. So compared to getting a reasonable set 2nd hand, shot blasting then powder coated against the price for new original VW ones wasn't that much really.

Just a bit annoyed right now as the tyre garage can't fit the front ones! With standard bolts and standard wheels :confused:
 

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Just a bit annoyed right now as the tyre garage can't fit the front ones! With standard bolts and standard wheels :confused:
Have you had Mercedes alloys on before? Are the spigots still on the hub and not on the alloys? Remember someone on the forum having this issue. The garage hadn't spotted the spigot due to all the crud that was covering it.
 

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Literally, white van man
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Ok thanks for the info. I ordered standrd T4 steel wheel bolts through Colese. It is turning into a bit of a saga now, have to make another post.

The steels are original factory finish. I always wanted the original wheels back on, but obviously always had trouble getting a nice set at the age they are. So compared to getting a reasonable set 2nd hand, shot blasting then powder coated against the price for new original VW ones wasn't that much really.

Just a bit annoyed right now as the tyre garage can't fit the front ones! With standard bolts and standard wheels :confused:
Why can't they fit them? what do they say?

It is possible that your van has the incompatible brake calipers (lucas) the Teves/ATE calipers have enough clearance.

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Sounds interesting. The current alloys are these, were on the Bus when I got it a year ago. I do know they have spigots, as previously a tyre place said one was missing :eek:

Well the problem is now...

Tyres arrived Wednesday, great off down to local tyre garage. Now I always thought the alloys were held on by original bolts



I think you can make them out on this photo. Now the steels that replace them match the part number of the wheels that were on when new. So in theory it should have been a simple case of remove battered alloys, fit steels.

When I returned on Wednesday they had not put on the wheels. They said the current wheel bolts were about 4mm too long and only fit with the alloys. When putting them on with the steels, they were "sticking out". Old wheels back on, so I return home and decide to get a full set of standard T4 steel wheel bolts. I had not seen the bolts so just assumed they must be different. The new ones came from Transporters R Us, through Colese.

Returned to the garage today, new bolt set in hand. They get busy, back wheel gpes on fine. I think it's all sorted. Then after 5 mins or so the dude comes back to tell me they still can't fit the front wheels :*. This is the passenger side front. He shows me the 2 bolts, the ones I brought with me (new, standard) and the ones that were holding the alloys on. The are the SAME size !!!!!
Looking back to Wednesday, I think the front was the first one he tried fitting and didn't try any others.

The say they simply don't fit, and that the front needs shorter bolts :* The rear steel went on fine, they were doing 1 side at a time as had more staff there.

Now as far as I know, there should be no need to have different length wheel bolts. I ask if there is anything that the front could have that the rear doesn't? They don't know. They try some spray, thinking maybe rust. They get the electric wheel bolt device...nope it definately still sticks out by alot when there is no wheel on. I think they measured at least 4mm extra thread when the bolt was wound in as far as it could go, with no wheel on. They say a shorter bolt is needed for the fronts.

If it was the spigots, then surely with no wheel on the bolts should wind in the right amount?

I really don't know where to start with this one, what seemed like such a simple job has just turned into a real nightmare. Now I'm wondering are the disc brakes at the front standard? Should they be drums like the back? Probably wouldn't matter, so ideas on this appreciated !!!!!

At least I know how to put on the centre caps now....I think I may put them up on the wall somewhere as it isn't looking like they are going on the steels just yet!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yes Fatboy35, I was wondering about the calipers, just wasn't sure if it would affect the wheel fit
 

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:confused: Ok, if the 'original wheels' are the same number as the ones you have now it is 'unlikely' that the brake calipers are the issue (also this would not result in the bolts being too long)

Perhaps the brake discs have been replaced with non standard/pattern parts and the face of the disc on the hub is too shallow (the thickness is less on the disc mounting face)

One solution is to fit universal spacers, however I am unsure how thick you can go without them being hubcentric (I'm sure Si Colese can advise)

Strange one for sure, let us know how you get on.

I have a set of your wheels on my later van (I have the TEVES/ATE calipers)





(only a rattle can job, but cost £65 ish all in, wheels, tyres, hub caps and paint. 10 meter pretty, looks pretty from 10 meters LOL:)


Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Nice looking steels! I'd love to see a set of those on my Bus!!!! Only problem is they would never fit :blg


I really don't know what is causing it, would have taken a pic but didn't have anything with me to take a pic of what was there behind the wheel.

The hub looked rusty and in keeping with the bus, so did the caliper really. Even so a wrong disc surely couldn't make up 4-5mm?

Looks like will have to phone somewhere and get it all looked at.
 

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Being a pre'96 van I don't see calipers being an issue either. And they wouldn't stop the wheel bolt going in far enough.

Helen, -presuming that's your name I:- did one front side go on okay and the other not? That would rule out brake disc thickness. But I don't see this being the problem as what's the point in making a disc 4mm thinner than OEM. :*

I believe you could fit 5mm spacers without worrying about the hub centric ness. But that's more expense on top of what has already been a lot I guess.

It's just possible that the thickness of the alloys meant that some crud build up in the hub behind the disc (brake dust, grease etc) and this has hardened over time. Maybe ask the garage to run a 12mm drill in the hole. I believe the holes go through the hub. But there is a CV joint back there so be careful.

Standard bolts are 35mm BTW so there should be that much depth to the hole at least.
Good luck and keep us posted. I too have older steel wheels on a later van for my winters. T:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ha ha yea it's my name, I do sometimes think I should have thought of a more imaginative username!

Would a 95 T4 have any spacers on the hub as standard? Does anyone have a photo of what the hub should look like on this year model? It could be the wrong discs, say if they have been replaced with some from another vehicle? Maybe then the part that goes over the hub could be the wrong thickness?

I think if it is all standard, then crud in the holes on the inner side could be likely That is what the tyre fitters thought it could be. I can't say re the other side at the front as they didn't bother going any further when they got to the problem. The rear does have drum brakes so I take it that kind of problem would be less likely at the rear. Although it would have to be at least 2cm of it!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well it turns out the problem was caused by gunk in the hub threads from the alloys being on and not using the 5mm or so of thread that the bolt uses with the steels.

All fixed with a bit of time, some Wynns engine cleaner and rotating a bolt backwards and forwards. No wrong hubs, calipers etc etc.

Have 2 wheels on now, taking it back tomorrow so they can finish the job!

Thanks everybody for all the suggestions and advice!
 
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