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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, I know that this has been asked a few times before, but hopefully you can help me.

I'd like to power the stereo from the leisure battery under my back seat when we're camping. However; I'd like to maintain the existing on/off feature with the ignition in normal use.

For the switch, I'd happily use either one of my spare CBE switches mounted in the wardrobe, or if it's easier mount something in one of my dashboard blanks like this

I'm struggling to think where to start.

Do I run the permanent live from the leisure battery to the stereo then put the physical switch on the switched live?

So:

Permanent live from LB to stereo.
Old switched live from ignition to new physical switch (off)
New switched live from LB to new physical switch (on)
Physical switch output to stereo

Am I even close?

I've not done much electrical work before so please feel free to talk to me like I know nothing!


Cheers,

Taff
 

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OK, I know that this has been asked a few times before, but hopefully you can help me.

I'd like to power the stereo from the leisure battery under my back seat when we're camping. However; I'd like to maintain the existing on/off feature with the ignition in normal use.

For the switch, I'd happily use either one of my spare CBE switches mounted in the wardrobe, or if it's easier mount something in one of my dashboard blanks like this

I'm struggling to think where to start.

Do I run the permanent live from the leisure battery to the stereo then put the physical switch on the switched live?

So:

Permanent live from LB to stereo.
Old switched live from ignition to new physical switch (off)
New switched live from LB to new physical switch (on)
Physical switch output to stereo

Am I even close?

I've not done much electrical work before so please feel free to talk to me like I know nothing!


Cheers,

Taff
What radio do you have installed? Standard VW one or have you fitted an aftermarket unit? If you have an aftermarket one, then click on the link in my signature at the bottom of this post T:

The way my T5 is setup, I have the permanent +12V from the Leisure Battery connected to Yellow rather then the +12V that comes out the radio loom and then the rest is as per my switch config.
This allows auto-on with the ignition when in "driving" mode and the switch in "-", and then flick the switch to position "=" in camping mode, and using the remote control while sat at the back A:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Amazing, thanks, looks like exactly what I want!

My head unit is a Pioneer SDH-DA120.

Another simple question, what type of cable do I need to run from the leisure battery to the dashboard? There seems to be a million options and I don't know what I need to order?!
 

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Amazing, thanks, looks like exactly what I want!

My head unit is a Pioneer SDH-DA120.

Another simple question, what type of cable do I need to run from the leisure battery to the dashboard? There seems to be a million options and I don't know what I need to order?!
It is just power you need as ground is taken care of as the Leisure Battery -ve will be connected to the chassis I would presume.
I tend to use a 1.5mm (21A) cable and protect with a 10A fuse. Is there a power requirement specified in the Pioneer manual?
The kit I do has spare bullet connectors ( male+female) to allow you to make the plug-in connection to the Leisure battery instead of the radio loom +12V line.

Where is your leisure battery located. If you have an idea of how much wire you would need, I could supply a length of suitable wire pre-fitted with the bullet connector for kit wiring T:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Cheers Hoovie - I've seen your DM and will reply separately - but to answer these questions...

The Pioneer manual tells me this:

Rated power source: 14.4 V DC (allowable voltage range 10.8 V to 15.1 V DC)
Earthing System: Negative Type
MAximum current consumption: 10.0 A


My batteries are located under the back seats, so I'd have to route cable into the wardrobe, over above the roof lining, along the passenger side and into the dash. I'm taking a separate reversing camera and its power down that side so I can route all of the wires in one go.

From what I've seen here - I need to fuse this +ve with a suitable fuse to protect the head unit - since this is rated at 10A I need a 10A fuse. My cable should be rated higher than the fuse (so in the event of a problem the fuse goes pop rather than burning throught the wire?)

I'm trying to learn here - so if any of this is incorrect - please feel free to correct me!

Taff
 

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Cable always higher rating then fuse, yes T:
21A cable is still ok, but with that long run I guess it wouldn't hurt to go a bit higher.
You may want to consider while running a cable for radio and the reversing camera, add another cable at the same time in case you want to add a cigar-lighter type accessory for charging phones, ipads, etc?
Now would be a good time to run the cable even if you don't use it or connect it immediately - extra £5 on cable spent now would save having to muck around later on running another cable :)
 

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Quick hijack if I can...
I've got a Pioneer avhx5700 and I've got the perminant/memory wire (yellow) connected to my LB. I've also have 2 switched lives (red), one from the SB and one from the LB meeting at a on/off/on switch. So in possition 1 it turns on with ignition, possition 2 it's off altogether, possition 3 it's on with the liesure battery.

My question is - are the red wires simply signal wires or do they actually power the HU?
I'm not too sure if I'm powering via two batteries or just powering by the LB and just getting a signal from the SB.

All I know is nothing has blown up.

I hope this makes sense. Cheers.
 

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Quick hijack if I can...
I've got a Pioneer avhx5700 and I've got the perminant/memory wire (yellow) connected to my LB. I've also have 2 switched lives (red), one from the SB and one from the LB meeting at a on/off/on switch. So in possition 1 it turns on with ignition, possition 2 it's off altogether, possition 3 it's on with the liesure battery.

My question is - are the red wires simply signal wires or do they actually power the HU?
I'm not too sure if I'm powering via two batteries or just powering by the LB and just getting a signal from the SB.

All I know is nothing has blown up.

I hope this makes sense. Cheers.
You are running with two batteries in position one, but that is ok :)
If you really wanted to absolutely, definately and positively only have radio powered by the leisure battery, but still have that 3-way flexibility, it would be very easy to do by just putting a relay in the circuit...
Line 30 would be on the Yellow LB supply, line 87 would be on the Red into the radio, line 85 would be connected to ground and line 86 would be the output of the 3-way switch - so the leisure battery would provide 100% of the power and all the vehicle battery will do is switch on the relay in position 1 A:

I was thinking about this point about two power sources into the one device a while back and discussed the situation with a engineer who designs ECUs for a major car maker (so has the knowledge I reckon A: )

This is what he told me:
Generally speaking that's fine.
Where you are changing over supplies, just make sure any change over switch (or mechanism) is "break before make", as shorting supplies together is not clever.
The "ignition" feed on the radio is mostly like more of an "enable" signal rather than supplying any real current. That usually all comes down the permanent battery connection.
Well, that's certainly what usually happens these days, if we have to design an ECU that has both permanent bat feed and ignition feed.
( Off on a tangent - we usually call those feeds KL30 and KL15 respectively, from the "Bosch" (spit) automotive handbook. KL standing for Klemme, which you might translate yourself ;) )
A modern voltage reg will have an enable signal input (connect KL15, after possibly "filtering") for this purpose and the perm bat feed (KL30) will (after some filtering) go to the main regulator input. There may well be another low quiescent current regulator too in the radio, powered from KL30, which just provides memory backup. It need not be that way, it could of course be the other way around, with the permanent connection (KL30), just feeding the memory power supply regulator.


Plus ... If you think about it, when the engine is running and your split-charge is active, then the vehicle and leisure batteries are electrically connected together anyway :)
.
 

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You are running with two batteries in position one, but that is ok :)
If you really wanted to absolutely, definately and positively only have radio powered by the leisure battery, but still have that 3-way flexibility, it would be very easy to do by just putting a relay in the circuit...
Line 30 would be on the Yellow LB supply, line 87 would be on the Red into the radio, line 85 would be connected to ground and line 86 would be the output of the 3-way switch - so the leisure battery would provide 100% of the power and all the vehicle battery will do is switch on the relay in position 1 A:

I was thinking about this point about two power sources into the one device a while back and discussed the situation with a engineer who designs ECUs for a major car maker (so has the knowledge I reckon A: )

This is what he told me:
Generally speaking that's fine.
Where you are changing over supplies, just make sure any change over switch (or mechanism) is "break before make", as shorting supplies together is not clever.
The "ignition" feed on the radio is mostly like more of an "enable" signal rather than supplying any real current. That usually all comes down the permanent battery connection.
Well, that's certainly what usually happens these days, if we have to design an ECU that has both permanent bat feed and ignition feed.
( Off on a tangent - we usually call those feeds KL30 and KL15 respectively, from the "Bosch" (spit) automotive handbook. KL standing for Klemme, which you might translate yourself ;) )
A modern voltage reg will have an enable signal input (connect KL15, after possibly "filtering") for this purpose and the perm bat feed (KL30) will (after some filtering) go to the main regulator input. There may well be another low quiescent current regulator too in the radio, powered from KL30, which just provides memory backup. It need not be that way, it could of course be the other way around, with the permanent connection (KL30), just feeding the memory power supply regulator.


Plus ... If you think about it, when the engine is running and your split-charge is active, then the vehicle and leisure batteries are electrically connected together anyway :)
.
Wow. Quite a response there.
So, as I read it - the red wires are signal, and the yellow is power. That's fine with me.
The switch I'm using is a Make-Break-Make so there's no chance of any shorting or double dosing.

Cheers hoovie and hoovies mate. T:
 

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Wow. Quite a response there.
So, as I read it - the red wires are signal, and the yellow is power. That's fine with me.
The switch I'm using is a Make-Break-Make so there's no chance of any shorting or double dosing.

Cheers hoovie and hoovies mate. T:
Well, he lost me after the 3rd sentence :D, but the "generally speaking that's fine" comment and confirmation that using a break before make switch should be used (which is what you use as said, and I both use and supply in my kits) was good enough to answer my question T:.
 

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Hi thread hijack.

Recently purchased the leasure battery loom for my head unit with dash mounted switch. Great, but iv lost the reverse camera function.

I am assuming this is because I have bypassed the can bus/power to the cable?

From what I can see the reverse camera connection has a cable going straight to the camera and a small power cable back to the power plug on the back of the unit.

The old live has a jumper cable onto the aerial/canbus? Attached a few pictures

Thanks in advance

Anybody have a work around for this?
 

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Again an attempted hijack of the thread.

Current set up...
Perm 12v from leisure battery to head unit (Sony ax1000. Great unit by the way!)
12v switched/ignition from fuse 19 via piggyback.
Also have reverse camera wired in there so can be on permanent when driving (head unit has ability to show image while driving).

My question is if I put a 3 way (on/off/on) rocker switch inline of the 12v ignition feed then ran a wire to my leisure battery for other ‘in’ to the rocker switch I could run it while parked on just leisure battery. Corrrect??
Tia!
 

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What radio do you have installed? Standard VW one or have you fitted an aftermarket unit? If you have an aftermarket one, then click on the link in my signature at the bottom of this post T:

The way my T5 is setup, I have the permanent +12V from the Leisure Battery connected to Yellow rather then the +12V that comes out the radio loom and then the rest is as per my switch config.
This allows auto-on with the ignition when in "driving" mode and the switch in "-", and then flick the switch to position "=" in camping mode, and using the remote control while sat at the back A:
Hi Hoovie. I'm looking to do the same thing with a T5 that I have recently bought. You refer to the link at the bottom of your post, but its not working. Any chance you could update the link or send it to me privately so I can follow your steps please?
 

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Hi Hoovie. I'm looking to do the same thing with a T5 that I have recently bought. You refer to the link at the bottom of your post, but its not working. Any chance you could update the link or send it to me privately so I can follow your steps please?
Have a look at this listing in the shop - https://wildebus.com/product/drive-camping-switch-wiring-kit/

At the bottom of the listing you will find two downloadable files - the listing description and the downloads shouls give you everything needed :)
 
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