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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I own a 1996 T4 Multivan with a 2.5 81KW Petrol engine (ACU) and automatic transmission. The engine has done over 250k km.

Yesteday it started with heavy knocking and the mech says the crankshaft is gone.

Since the engine had done a lot of mileage, I am looking at replacing the whole engine from junk dealer offers - I cannot afford a recon engine.
However, I am getting different stories as to what is right and wrong.

I have looked up ACU engines and get a few choices. The one place has an ACU engine from same year of manufacture, but has been in a manual transmission. It has done 180k km and the price is reasonable.

The second place I called had ACU engine that has only done 150k km and is cheaper - and they say it is for an automatic transmission. However, it is written as a 1995 model (one year earlier).

Now my questions:
Is the ACU engine the same irrespective of manual/auto transmission? The second place claims that the 'manual engine' doesn't support kickdown function - so I should buy their engine - and that the fact that it is a '95 engine doesn't matter. That it is the same as the 96 model.
Is there not a difference in models from '96 onwards - or is the ACU engine always the same?

Also, now that I am going to pull the engine out - is this an oppurtunity to upgrade? In other words, is there the option to fit another type of engine (newer, more power, etc.) without any major modifications? Preferably just plug and play :)

Thanks,
Pfeiffer
 

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I would have thought that and ACU engine would fit either the auto or manual. You have your current engine to swap any special bits over so go for the best engine. Year is also irrelavant as you are essentially replacing like for like and have bits off your existing van to use of necessary
 

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That's entirely up to you, your wallet and ambition. with petrols you have a few options

Replacing like for like will be easiest and cheapest as you already have all the bits aprt from the odd gasket, belts and stuff. If you really want to play Golf Gti 8v will go as will a 16v with some customising. 1.8 turbo is appearing in a few vans and that is my direction after Christmas. I also looked at GR60 (8v GTi supercharged engine) but opted against it due to servicing the supercharger and the miles I do. The turbo would return greater value over the longer term. BUT if you don do stupid miles like I do its definitely an option, and it shouldn't be too difficult to do provided you get hold of the right manifolds etc.

A real project engine would be supercharging or turbo charging the 2.0L petrol engine. Hmmm. Stand alone management, big valves and flowed head etc. and it would kick a bit I would think. Need to check the block internals etc. but I do remember reading that the 2.0L T4 engine was favourite for transplants into other vehicles due to the low compression and favourable internals.

VR6 is also an option but I'm not 100% if one will fit without changing the front end to a long nose.
 

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With an engine swap I'd change all the belts including the cam belt. Strongly consider a new water pump and definitely a new clutch.

As far as gaskets etc. are concerned it depends what you're getting and what parts you're swapping over. You may need new inlet and exhaust manifold gaskets, sump gasket, rocker cover. But if you're new engine is complete have a good look at them and think about changing them. It's obviously far easier when it's all out of the van.
 

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Assuming you're keeping the 'box the same, make sure you use all your existing electronics (sensors, wiring, ECU). I think the throttle position sensor is different between manuals and auto, which is what supports the kick-down function on the auto.

As Noo Noo says, clutch, cambelt and waterpump are the main things to do on the new engine. I would also look for any signs of oil leaks on the crankshaft seals - much easier to do with the engine on the bench, if they do need done.

Good luck with the swapT:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I managed to make this swith and the engine is now in and running. However, the car seems to drop idle speed shortly, for around 3 heartbeats when staionary, and the pick up normal idle. It is fine again until I stop at next place, drops idle for 3-4 beats, as it will cut out, then is stable again.

I want to check the vacuum pipes, but have a problem with the diagram at vagcat. Not all parts are easily identifiable.

Can someone please tell me what the part with red arrow is and where to locate it?



Thanks
 
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