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Hi guys this is my way i did my top ball joints
once the bottom damper nut/bolt is removed & the top ball joint nut is removed the bottom arm will drop to this this level,once you first have jammed some steel in between the cross member & torsion bar,,you will need to jack the the hub up to gain access for the steel then let the jack down slowly

using a slitting disc on the angel grinder gently cut through the old joint


camber adjuster ready for knocking the old joint section out

the red bit is what you hit with the hammer




now to the pressing bit & yes that engineers C/G clamp is a monster :cool:
box section/flat bar i migged up for the bottom foot yes she is "Strong" ;)




snap on 1/2 drive ratchet & 3 1/2ft scaffolding pipe now turn till you hear the crack carefully watching the clamp/socket positions


the red section is a tiny line after the crack,once you hear that your well on your way

out


clean the red sections ive mark,dont go mad on the bit the joint presses in to


i used the dewalt & a flap bit to get rid of the top/bottom section where its rusty


smear the splined/torsion bar section in copper slip


get it in to this position,the red marked section can only go on one way if you first bolt down the camber top plate back in position where you marked it


eccentric adjuster


using a small trolley jack,van in gear then the disk doesn't turn when under weight,start jacking & with your other hand locate the new ball joint into its housing

this is what it looks like once it "Square" in its housing,,now for another fun bit,,start jacking it till you can nion see it trying to lift the van of its axle stand or in my case the best axle stands in the world

now start hitting the cast steel @ 12/6/9/3 o'clock & it will drag its self up & in to its housing,you can jack some more if needed but be carefull,the joint "Will" pull in if its square to start with

red line is where the clip goes when its in this position Eg: done

retaining clip in

now bolt it all back together job done,,ive done both sides top & bottom joint & used genuine vw


they cost £120 inc vat from the dealer
last but know means least best axle stands in the world given to me by a very friendly neighbour who"s husband used to work on his T2 but as now sadly passed away so these are keepers forever


hope the above pics/info helps

thanks Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Good info bud, moved into technical articles for you T:
cheers buddy T: hope it helps those who may think the top joint are bad to do

to be honest there not at all but some decent tools are needed

its a very satisfying feeling when you hear that crack ;)
 

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Thank you very much for the great info provided here. I have just replaced my nsf wheel bearing, track rod (inner and outer) and the TOP BALL joint. A very well described operation and it worked very well. Thanks T:
 

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Thanks for the 'How to'.
started to do mine today, but was put off by the fact that everything was rusted solid, but with the aid of this guide, I soldiered on, it wasn't half as bad as I thought it might be, I didn't need any special tools in the end, just the right application of force against a solid base, and it popped apart a treat.
Deffo a good idea to cut the shaft off the ball joint.
Thanks
 

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Brilliant,
great to see how you do it the 'proper' way! I know a man who would never consider buying a tool, or using steel axle stands for that,- matter and that approach has served him fine for 70 years so far!
Three cheers for back yard mechanics A:
 

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brilliant description
was your steering heavy by any chance as mine feels really heavy and i'm thinking it might be the ball joints, can they be lubricated or is it just replacement?? thanks
 
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