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Discussion Starter #1
Must admit I have been a user of the forum for some time but never made a contribution before...time to put that right with the build of our T4 known as Trev. The VW T4 forum been been a great reference of how to so far and I don't expect that to change.

This was the van as it was picked up last December from Walsall

Guess that means he is in Team Green :)

Overpaid for it but sometimes you just develop a feeling for a vehicle. Reasonable mileage at 120,000 but showing signs of working-life wear and tear followed by a short period of neglect that had started it on the downward slope but overall it seemed sound and was very good mechanically with an intermittent starting fault. I was hoping we had caught it in time as it went straight off for a 40k service including timing belt, water pump etc and overall health check.

The results came back. Some welding (expected), the metal water pipe in the engine was heavily corroded (again expected), rear springs heavily corroded (dropping it), gearbox oil (expected), cold start cable snapped (expected), ignition switch & barrel (expected). A big sigh of relief! A month of running around as a van and then back for the work to be done.....plus a new battery, it wouldn't do any harm.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Once It was back home work could start on the exterior which went on and on but with the aid of these



He went from this





To this





The paint is OK for now but it'll need a respray down the line, there's quite a few different interpretations of Friesian Green going on but on the whole it is looking a bit tidier...there's been comments from a few of the neighbours
 

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First bit of bolting stuff on; bonnet bra, indicator lenses and wind deflectors.


Suppose that should really be sticking and tying things on before my beloved nephew took over for a morning and fitted these


I did my bit as the run around apprentice. One problem, odd shocks at the back. Bless 'im, get them ordered and he'll come over next week. Good job he did, let's just say one was more of a shot absorber!
 

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This is the starting point inside, a bit well used

Fancy a bit of star gazing at night so the first thing to tackle was the installation of a rooflight over what will be the seat. Marked it out following measure-twice-cut-once but something didn't look right. Pause, scratch head, lots more measuring. Everything good, 390mm all round, square, parallel to lines but just didn't look right. Didn't help that the tape isn't square. Stopped and sat back...got it! I hadn't allowed for the slope of the wall. Move everything 50mm to the N/S. Good to go, pilot holes drilled

On the last cut

Fitting the timber framework, a few clamps required

It's a bit of a stretch getting all the screws in the external frame and it was very back-and-forth tightening diagonally opposite (I had already drilled and tapped all the holes standing through the cutout...Gruber and his little tank sprang to mind!)

Inside was definitely easier

Will add the blind when I do the carpeting

I later vinyl wrapped the white base on the three non-hinged sides, it was a bit of a sore thumb in all its whiteness and felt (no disrespect to caravaners or motor homers intended) a little caravanny-motor homey
 

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Bit I was dreading next, fitting the windows. If this goes wrong a lot harder to hide than if it was with the rooflight. Must admit I didn't totally trust the fitting instructions for cutting the hole. These use the internal beams as the cutting template. It was hard to tell for sure but I reckoned (with a test hole) this would mean you were bonding into the channel. Prefer the idea of a wider contact area. So I decided to come in 20mm all round.


And was happy with the result on the outside


One down....





 

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After a bit more bolting on...


...felt brave enough to tackle the two N/S windows in one. Used 80% black film on the back windows.

 

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The floor in the back was in good condition with a couple of 'condensation blemishes'. Easily fixed.


First off, 9mm plywood battens were laid in the larger low points using acid etch primer and a construction adhesive


Before the whole thing was Waxoyled.


The floor was cut from 12mm ply using the mat as a template, didn't bother retaining the lashing points. The bottom and edges were Waxoyled. The black blobs in the image mark where pilot holes could be drilled for screwing down (freshly Waxoyled the battens put the floor in and ran around on it...saved a lot of measuring!)


Whilst that was drying started to tackle the insulation, double layered radiator foam.


The ply was screwed down to the battens.


Once down a line of butyl sealant was put down the seam and the whole thing was sealed. Once that was dry silicone was squeezed into the gaps around the edges (and the mat put back down for now). One solid floor that (fingers crossed) should be pretty spill resistant


Keeping the bulkhead so used 12mm ply there screwed through into another piece of 12mm on the cab side using self tappers. Would need to remove this again to fit the leisure battery harness but need it in place for the next bit.

 

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Nice work A:
On the skylight, are those battens left in to screw to or could you just bolt through and finish off with the headliner to fit and make it neat?
Looking at possible (cheaper than sunroof) options later on.
Liking the side bars and wheel arch trims too
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you.

The skylight requires a minimum roof depth of 25mm for the flyscreen (and opening handle to fit). I'm using 25mm battens attached to the roof for the lining anyway so it's quite handy (this will only be a few mm lower than using the VW fixings). Because the skylight is off centre this does mean the lining will be slightly asymmetrical but I don't see that as problem...more of a feature :) (doubt it will be noticeable anyway once everything is in).

Must admit, when the wheel arch trims arrived I wasn't impressed but once they were fitted they looked right and pleased I had got them.
 

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On to the O/S wall lower bit. First of all the insulation, double layered and a layer of thermal bubble in the low points.


Also used 12mm on this wall to give something fairly sturdy to attach the cupboards to. Cut the ply using the original linings as a template and trimmed as necessary.....making sure it was square to the floor!


A PVA wash to seal the back and edges


Before fitting it with spring bolts through the supports and blocked on the floor and bulkhead.


Finally I would be able to stop tripping over the leisure battery sitting in the middle of the shed floor. Removed the bulkhead and attached the fixing points for the harness before sealing it and putting it back in.





The harness itself is made from galvanised steel bolted together with pipe insulation 'cushioning'.

 

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Discussion Starter #11
Break from the battery to raise the step. First off cleaned the metalwork and took a masking tape template of the shape (not forgetting the holes) and Waxoyled it.


Bonded pieces of 9 and 12mm ply and used the template to cut the 'riser'. Rounded off the back edge with a plane.


Checked it all fitted properly before sealing it. Once dry stuck it into place before sealing all the edges with silicone.


Back to the battery. Now knowing where everything sat I could drill the holes for the drop out vents (keeping an eye on the handbrake connector)


I shaped the vents hoping that this might create a better flow through the box. Looks like it might have worked, bit of a breeze and you could definitely feel the draught.


Finally, I constructed the housing around it which will be a buddy box seat in time.


Want to make sure it is all sealed when everything is connected up even though the battery shouldn't vent. Will extend the back vent to scavenge from the very top.
 

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Finished insulating and lining the walls and with 3.6mm ply (still got the doors to do), insulated the same as before. Decided to box the wheel arches using 9mm ply with battens at the joints and to attach it in place. Wrapped the arches themselves in a double layer of closed cell



After sealing it lined the inside of the box with layer of acoustic foam


Put the box in place sealing all the edges, except for the top, and then packed it with off cuts of insulation.

 

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Started fixing 25mm battens to the roof in preparation for lining the roof...although I have also just been told we want a pop top. OKkk! Bit of a change of plan.


Whilst that went off decided to sort the position for the electrics, coolbox and gas locker and started constructing the boxes


Back to lining the roof...although this is only in the back now of course. Double layered with thermal bubble in the low points again and lined with 3.6mm screwed into the battens.


A back shelf for bits and bobs should come in handy. 9mm shaped and dropped down from the last batten.


Two pieces of 3.6mm bonded together screwed to the back door frame and the bottom of the front piece


And with the access hole cut and an inner box fitted to stop things 'wandering off'.

 

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Finished off the carcasses on the bulkhead, plus a bit more woodwork. Also fitted the curtain runners. Couldn't resist roughly marking out the cupboards even though that is way down the line yet.


Was going to keep the original wheels with some fancy hubcaps but I do like the look of the original steels. Dilemma! Could have the old ones blasted and powder coated but easier to buy new ones. Took the easy option. Sprayed up a set of Caddy hub caps.


Slight problem...didn't like the look so reinstated the originals


Have a long term plan for the original wheels

Went to pick up the ply to line the doors and it was Very noticeable the impact that the insulation had on the noise level but when I turned the engine over to come back wouldn't start. No glow plug light. Let it cool for about half an hour and turned the key, glow plug light flicked on and off and the engine started. Noticed the temperature seemed a little high on the way back, nothing excessive but a little bit higher than normal. Got back tried to start it and no glow plug light. Let it sit again, turned the key and everything back. Up with the bonnet for a check around and the logical starting point seemed the coolant temp sensor. Oh blimey, the rubber cap was split along its whole length and the connector was showing signs of corrosion. Lifted the cable and the connector came away from the sensor, that was on securely then. Looks like somebody had tried to crimp the spade connector with a pair of pliers. At least it's an easy fix (hopefully).

And the rock and roll bed went in as well...must admit I got them to fit this as I was picking it up anyway, saves me scrabbling around underneath. It was insisted that I remove the upholstery for safety...hmmm she probably is right.

 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks, plenty more steps to come yet. Just trying to get it into a glorified tent state at the moment for a trip to the Welsh coast before a big onslaught over the winter starting with the cab.
 

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The dreaded MOT but no problems and got them to fit new front HD shocks and do a wheel alignment (1mm front and 3.5mm back). The 'driving experience' has been vastly improved by the combination of shocks, springs and height got to admit. Slow but stable. It no longer feels like you are going to fall over when using roundabouts.

Ok, after 'our' decision to have a poptop settled on a retro one as I rather like the look, its a nod to the T2 originals. Unplanned work ahead and first off a white blob on top might look a bit out of place so out with the GRP primer and paint


Cutting the hole was pretty much the same as for the skylight but had to take out one of the strengthening beams, jigsaw seemed to cope fine (only snapped one blade throughout the whole process). Also needed to trim the strengthening beam to fit under the frame.





With the hole cut the top could be put in place and the hinges fitted through the roof into wooden battens.


The tent was attached though the roof and into the frame.


158 self tappers later and just a bit of trimming up left to do. Looking fine from the inside when up....

 

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....but not quite so good when down from the outside.


Poop! This really is most vexing you silly person...or something similar as I recall. Gone over my measurements and still can't see where it went wrong but it's definitely sitting on the raised bit. Now do I ignore it and disguise with additional trim, there's the spoiler anyway, or do I do it properly? It's a pain but...

First peel away the rubber and set the height of the top to mark the cut


Out with the jigsaw to make the cut, should have been a GRP blade really but used a new fine metal straight-cut as it saved me having to pop out. I will admit I kept double checking the clearance to the tent throughout this, it was huge but I was taking no chances.


Reattach the rubber and....


Disaster averted, sitting pretty snug all round. Just the spoiler to add.
 

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With the top in the roof lining could be finished off and got to admit pleased with it, a few interesting curves going on and should look good carpeted. Also fitted the cab divider rail.


It was still very slow to turnover when starting but then all became clear. Went to start it....pause....horrible screeching....clunk....engine sprang to life. Out with the starter motor and you could see the teeth are 20 years old and, fortunately, the teeth on the flywheel are fine. New starter fitted and all good.

And with the upholstery refitted Trev is starting to feel more campervanny rather than just vanny.


Now, the plan was to fit the split charger and have a trip to the Welsh coast but it hasn’t arrived yet. So, change of plan and a couple of nights away at Uphill Marina at Weston and let the dog get some sand between her toes. It's gonna be very basic, a mobile tent with a decent bed.

Split charger and hook up first when work recommences after removing the cushions obviously (as I have just been reminded)....and replace the film on the back windows. Used the stuff a number of times and never had an issue before but I think the heat might have affected the drying out in some way. Sort of it'll do for now....and I need to address the trim on the windows, not happy with it. Then a really fun job of ripping out the cab and overhauling it.
 

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A great few days away and even threw in an extra night at Small Batch (Shrops) on the way back. Nothing fell off and no hitches with the van. Also started to get a feel for the layout, should make the next trip a little more comfortable.


Fitted the hook up next, the vehicle was earthed to the consumer unit in the wheel arch box. Scraped off some green and used silver contact paint before screwing down to ensure a good contact.


The hook up plug will live behind the reflector in the rear bumper, just had to drill a hole through the spare grommet to get the cable through. All the wiring in place in the consumer unit, just need to run the cables for the sockets now.


Moved on to the split charging with a connection to the starter battery +ve with the lead running under the vehicle (notice the shiny new starter motor).



The cable was brought up through one of the vents to connect up the leisure battery. Incredible to think that the supplier wanted to charge around £150 for fitting. After I stopped choking I decided not to be lazy and do it myself. Like the unit though. The box is lined with butyl and, as mentioned before, the back vent extended to scavenge from the top.


And it was at this point that I realised I had forgotten the split charger earth. Right, break the butyl seal, run the cable through and reseal. The earth was made through the bulkhead removing paint and using silver contact as before.

Wired in a 240V socket for the charger and a couple of 12V sockets (one for the cool box and the other to charge phones etc). With the electrics fitted we can now make that trip to The Welsh Coast.
 
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