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T5 2.5 TDI 174bhp AXE engine swap

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5.2K views 3 replies 3 participants last post by  Bradley 0615  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hi VW people,
Im looking for a little advice and recommendations for swapping out my 2005 T5 2.5 TDI 174 AXE Engine.

recently I have experienced oil residue in my coolant and the accompanying cream sludge on the oil filler cap, I’ve done a lot of reading on the forum and it seemed like I had a head gasket problem, so I had a c02 test and sure enough I had c02 in my coolant too.

I took it to a local garage which I trust, to price up the work, while I was there they had noticed that the engine had a good old rattle on start up, suggested piston slap or bottom end bearingsand said that I would probably be best to replace the engine for a reconditioned unit,

Does anyone have any good solid recommendations for the best places to be looking for a recon unit, and also if there are any useful guides out there so thatI can assess whether or not my skill levels are up to the job.

I’m fairly competent mechanically but have never tackled an engine job before, so any advise would be gratefully received.
 
#3 ·
Do it! But think of the following:
Good covered work space
More good covered work space!
Good covered storage space
Good cleaning tank
A cheap air compressor- preferable not essential
Good tools- some specific tool.
Engine hoist and engine stand
A good large work bench
Lots of shirts, shorts, socks, pants to cut up for rags!
Don’t rush!
Some repair manual for technical details and how to. Haynes will do!
Prepare to have it off road for a long time
No need for genuine parts. There are some off market German parts from Germany at reasonable price.
Search for parts all over; eBay, others sources- don’t pay the first price you see.
Part sellers don’t necessarily have technical knowledge. Read parts numbers from old parts and google it.
Part numbers can be confusing: compare photos, look for engine, model, year etc. to make sure the right one.
Sensors, oil pump, coolant pump, piston rings, main bearings, big ends, cylinder head, valves, camshaft, hydraulic buckets, injector kits, seals- buy good quality ones, not necessarily dealer brand- dealer brand cylinder head about 4 grand! but a good quality FAI brand will do exact same life span at much lower price.
Don’t throw the old parts out for ever! Always keep for reference and compare!
Water pumps tricky if stuck and seized. The special tool is useless if seized! You have to struggle- some hang, dangle the engine by it to extract it- I use levers with care not to damage the block- else your alloy block has to go to scrap!
Don’t touch the gear drives- don’t remove them! Note their position, wash them with diesel, oil them, put the cover back. They are not serviceable. There is no torque value for them. Just go as far as removing the cam gear, the pretension gear and that’s it!
Take lots of photos to refer to- don’t be cocky thinking you remember positions/ orientations etc. Take note/ draw your own diagram if you have to.
Keep old parts in order with their respective nuts and bolts.
Ordinarily no need to hone the bores- they are Plasma coated for life, though I had mine LIGHTLY honed-
Bottom ends on these engines are bloody good! Normally last a life time unless something drastic happens. New set of piston rings, shells and bearings will make as good as new.
Don’t try removing piston jets! Just air and diesel through them will do. Hard to remove and can cause damage to threads in the block if forced
Remember it’s all aluminium block. Torque to aluminium threads are quite low. Most of them are hellicoils anyways so don’t push your luck!
Watch out for the thrust washers. I’ve seen quarter thrust bearings missing!
A good machine shop to make sure crankshaft is straight and a light honing for bores if needed. Remember, not all machine shops are as clever as you!
Lots of oil when assembling, even better, assembly grease!
Follow the order, sequence, and timing when putting the head on.
Don’t overdo, fuss, panic. Mostly common sense if you are good at holding a spanner correctly.
Think about the ancillaries eg starter motor, alternator, power steering pump, aircon pump etc, as they are pigs to replace in situ.
Change power steering drive gear seal. It’s done from outside the gear train- don’t interfere with the gear train side.
On the top, put new things- egr, possibly turbo, exhaust manifold if needed, throttle body, etc. Cleaning inlet manifold is a pig! Devise your own method! If using oven cleaner, be prepared to paint it as it’ll kill the shiny surface! Leave the stuff on long enough, it’ll eat up all the metal! Injectors,
You can buy from Germany remanufactured injectors with test certificate. Not expensive.
Good quality German tandem pump not expensive.
New high pressure fuel hose.
New glow plugs. Watch out for different voltages.
New glow plug loom. New injector loom.
Some new bolts. Not all as mentioned in Haynes.
Etc etc.
Then you’ll have a new engine complete for about 4 grand, far better than the **** you see for 5grand and more without any of the ancillaries mentioned above.
Bon Départ!