Excellent "how to" & thanks for taking the time to post - if ever a thread should be "pinned" this is one.

 

Agreed T:

 

Thanks guys, just hope it helps.
Glad it's fixed now though, doing my head in useing the key and climbing over the seats!

 

Thanks for the 'how to'.

I am building myself up to doing this over the next couple of days as my central locking has stopped working.

The key fob flashes but nothing happens, I have to look my van with the key in the drivers side.
Hope is the same fault as yours!

Thanks

 

Hi,

Yeh sounds like the same fault. Worth checking as it's quite an easy repair. If you have a soldering iron solder the clean wires together for a solid join.

If anyone needs a new central locking module box I have a brand new one that I ordered from VW Germany as thought it was this before finding the corroded wire! Typical!

 

Hi,
Yeh sounds like the same fault. Worth checking as it's quite an easy repair. If you have a soldering iron solder the clean wires together for a solid join.
If anyone needs a new central locking module box I have a brand new one that I ordered from VW Germany as thought it was this before finding the corroded wire! Typical!

do you still have the box, I know this is an old fault? done the wire fix but still not locking off the fob so I presume its the CCU? if you've still got yours I'd happily buy it off you?

bestest regards

Roo Newby
078105 874907

 

I undid the 4 main bolts holding the front drivers seat down and tipped it back, you can then get in and solder it up.

After undoing all the tape and getting to the red/blue wire which was very green, re-soldering and putting it all back together it still doesnt work, so maybe its the door solenoid.

I need to stop buying VW's they are as bad as Mercs but not quite as bad as BMW's. Drove the new Amarok the other day, it was gutless and felt like it was made of papier mache! Waste of time!

 

Hi mate,

Yeh if you don't have anything behind your seat good idea to just tilt it back, I'd check your door solenoid but there is also more options that I have read and seem legit.

Re-start central locking module by disconnecting battery for at least 15 min, Clear ECU faults via OBD port with a Launch or code reader. Some aftermarket head units affect the central locking performance.

Hope you get to the bottom of it.

 

I'm confused on mine too. I have central locking working fine but not remote locking. I have flashing door LEDs, and my wire under seat is fine (12v getting to unit). Do you think I need the box you ordered from Germany?

 

Hi Matt Roberts,

Is the key fob little light flashing when you press the button? May be as simple as needing a new battery in the fob, I think there 3 volt ones.

You can always check the central locking module by disconnecting it from under the seat and the actual box will un clip so you can check the internal connectors, mine was a little corroded so I carefully used a tiny file to clean up each connector.

Hope that helps mate.

 

So I fixed my driver's door using the chase back to green corrosion about 6 months ago. Now passenger door has stopped opening and closing. First time I fixed I didn't take out any seats just pushed driver's seat forward. This time aggggghhhhh!

I get to the two wires which are blue and red (slightly thicker ones which are in black wrapped loom and are spliced together where they meet and then connect into the other thinner blue and red wire goes to plug in box (if that makes sense). So one of the thicker wires I chase back by undoing loom and no issue stays connected within loom and good. The other thicker wire comes off in my hand and is totally corroded inside plastic covering. So I figure I'll just rejoin it inside loom and keep undoing black clothe tape-again good thicker wire keeps going as I undo clothe tape BUT, and this is my issue, I find no other broken off think blue and red wire to rejoin the one which came off in my hand-I have now taken out front seats BOTH to pull back insulation and keep chains back loom and undoing tape and nothing.

So please, I really need help in knowing what to attach the second thick blue and red wire to inside loom - just can't seem to find point where it was joined-when the good thicker wire is connected to the thinner one all the doors EXCEPT the passenger front open and close with remote so I figure the thicker one that came off is the one which controls passenger front door.

Car is now in bits so REALLY appreciate any assistance.

Thank you so much.

Matt (Sydney-Aus)

 

Hi Matt,

I was really confused too as they had bothered to splice in the second wire but didn't go to anything, I too took off all the the protective tape and still films nothing, I removed the second wire and my central locking works fine so I can only assume that the wiring loom is a generic part that is used on a different model or vehicle all together, ie just not needed on the T5. I'd be inclined to check your passenger door solenoid press the button and see if you can hear working through the door card, if not strip back the plastic door card and check the connector, I'd guess that the door solenoid has packed in.

Hope that helps

 

Thanks John.

Like you I figured out that wire went NOWHERE after pulling out both seats and then undoing the loom and chasing back. Wasted 3 hours for nothing. At least I learnt how to remove seats and handbrake etc. so of some value. Funny thing is the pass. door now isn't activating at all whereas previously it would about 50% of the time open but rarely close on remote activation. Seemed to be worse in wet weather hence I thought it was the corroded wiring. I'll check the solenoid (wherever and whatever that is) and see if I can work that out.

Thanks for the help, hugely appreciated.

Matt

 

Hi Matt,

The door solenoid is the electrical component that the door handle is connected to inside your door, it controls the central locking for that door and the actual lock. If you take off the door card you will see it by the door lock. Normally makes a noise when locking/unlocking.

 

Hi John, thanks for the reply, yes keys light up fine, no noise or anything when press buttons. Really annoying me as I said I've checked power and wiring to box, all ok. Excuse my ignorance but I'm wondering if that box is plug & play, ie if I get another will it work with my van without being plugged in (vagcom). I just don't know. And I can't get this problem off my mind, determined to sort it somehow!

So are you saying yours didn't work before you cleaned connections up, but that cured it? Will def look later, appreciate your response! T:

 

But I'm also thinking I don't hear of those boxes failing, jus got this niggle in my mind thinking its a simple connection maybe. Argh!

 

Good work John - an excellent guide!
Now just need to treat myself to a decent spanner and socket set - had every size except the 16mm and the 13mm that I needed!

 

awesome thread - my new van doesnt lock unlock on the keyfob, no lights on door, and the central locking doesnt work using the key manually either.

I've been hunting for info and found this so will be checking the module under the seat and for broken wires. The CD multi changer doesnt work either so could be signs of damp in the area.

Paul

 

Thanks for all the tips, I just slid the seat to the front, cut off the webbing and crimped the 2 together again after cleaning , sweet! had been expecting a 70 or 80 euro minimum raping from the local mechanic.

 

Since owning my van the central locking hasn't worked! I've replaced the key fob battery and the wiring has been redone where it had corroded, the ecu under the seat however is blue/green with corrosion. I've even tried buying a mapping program but the ecu wouldn't read it. Any ideas how much a new ecu would cost or could it be something else?

 

Thank you for this, I had a van that would unlock by key but lock by the fob, I had changed the battery still the same, so I have just pulled the seat out and had a look. This had been looked at before but mister diy was a bit naff, they had split the power cable and soldered 2 thin cables to join it back up, and these had gone green.

I pulled it all apart and spliced in a proper piece of cable and put male to female sockets, I also left the 3inch cable out as this was as green as the grass.

Now the central locking works a lot better but not as fully as it did, before it all went wrong even with the doors open I could lock the van, now I can only lock it if the driver door is closed???
still I can unlock and lock the van again with the fod when my hands are fully of kids and bits, so thanx again for this info.

 

One simple thing that is worth checking: make sure that the date and time are set correctly on your vehicle. I had to replace a main battery on an Audi A4, and once the battery was changed (lost the date & time) the central locking stopped working. Re-set the date and time - the central locking started working again! Anyone else seen this?

 

Please anyone help me my alarm siren its not working .but the indicators flashes.help will be appreciated

 

I took the seats out and traced this corroded wire....to find that mine wasn't corroded and was perfectly normal. Soldered it to make sure and still nothing. I'd pay good money to have a van that locks from the fob it used to a couple of months ago !!

 

Just been working under the seats in my van and had to remove the cab carpet... there was about 1 litre of water soaked up into the back of the mat in all the sponge. This looks like it has got in via the sliding window seals and collected in the back of the cab. I seems like the electrical cables are getting wet and causing central locking faults. Has anyone else come to this conclusion? I am trying to sort the window seals out as mentioned in other posts you never know...

 

Superb info , bought a t5 over the weekend no central locking last owner using key to open close doors , followed the thread on looking for the fault , exactly as described everything working as it should top man

 

@john boy, fantastic write up.

But unfortunately it didn't help me. I got to the wires just like @deduct did, and found they were spotless - as good as the day they were made.

My central locking used to work perfectly, but one day pressing the key fob just stopped doing anything. I have tried both keys with new batteries put in them and it makes no difference.

My central locking still works, I just use the key in the boot lid now to lock and unlock all the doors.

I want my remote central locking back!!

Cheers

 

Have the same thing with mine one red and blue wire with a short bit spliced in that didn't go any where , most strange I just took it off