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I have just been told that some 2010 vans do have the central locking module under the driver's seat, in the rest it is part of the J915 module under the dash. Apparently if it is located under the seat it is clearly visible, so I will have to get around to having a look. I have also noticed that when I withdraw the ignition key, the radio does not always switch off like it used to. I don't know if this is linked to the central locking fault.
Sorry daverave7, I cannot advise you about the location of the fault in the cable, perhaps one of the more experienced members might.
Peter
 

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Hi Dave, I was able to find the corrosion joint on my cable without removing the seat. I just stripped the fabric tape off of the cable until the joint was visable and repaired it in situ (be careful not to cut any insulation on the other wires when stripping the fabric tape). Unfortunately although mine was corroded, fixing it did not correct my central locking problem.
 

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I've got into the join without removing the seat and it's falled apart in my hands! Theres 3 wires on one side (all red blue) and 2 wires on the other (all red blue)... this has confused me! Which wires go to which? Or can I join them all up together?
 

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I've got into the join without removing the seat and it's falled apart in my hands! Theres 3 wires on one side (all red blue) and 2 wires on the other (all red blue)... this has confused me! Which wires go to which? Or can I join them all up together?
They all join together. Ideally you should use a crimp which has a heat-shrinkable, sealed sleeve as this will keep any moisture out of the joint in the future. Failing that, a sole red joint with a length of heat-shrink sleeve with a meltable inner surface will do the same job.
Not sure if you can fit any other type of cable protection under the carpet/mat without it making a bulge, but if you can it can only help to prevent future issues.
 

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They all join together. Ideally you should use a crimp which has a heat-shrinkable, sealed sleeve as this will keep any moisture out of the joint in the future. Failing that, a sole red joint with a length of heat-shrink sleeve with a meltable inner surface will do the same job.
Not sure if you can fit any other type of cable protection under the carpet/mat without it making a bulge, but if you can it can only help to prevent future issues.
Cheers for the advice. However, I measured the voltage at the broken wires and it was only around 0.2V - which might be a bit of a concern! I was expecting 12 volts? Unless I'm doing something wrong with my meter... I'm putting the red end of my meter on the broken wire and the black end to an earth... Is this correct? (sorry for the amateur questions!)
 

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I've managed to fix it! Yes, it was the wires under the seat. Stripped and re-joined them using bullet connectors - I'm not worried about making it waterproof as the join is above my matting not underneath it. All central locking works with one click on the fob even from 10 metres away. I'm still confused to why my multimeter doesn't read 12V! Is it because I was measuring it when the battery was unearthed?! I thought there would still be a PD between a red live and an earth ground despite this, but maybe not!

Thanks to all on this forum, saved me cash and time. And it goes to show that even a numpty like myself who can't use a multimeter can follow the guidance on here!:ILU:
 

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A possibly useful update for folks.

I had working Central locking on both fobs and keys.

Took seats out etc to take out bulkhead supports etc for conversion.

On temporarily refitting front seat noticed fobs didnt work. Hunted down the same corroded connection everyone has on the tread so far, re-soldered, checked for 12V voltage at module. Great must be sorted BUT my fobs still didn't work. :blg

Tried disconnecting battery again for a bit, and still no joy.

However, after a bit of research and a phone call to a friendly locksmith he suggested re-syncing the fobs with the van.

Drivers window down. One key in ignition, ignition on, use other key to manually lock doors, then press unlock on each fob. AND magic - all working as it should.

So before you give up or start spending money try getting the fobs to sync - there's probably better videos on youtube than my explanation.

Good Luck :D
 

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Probably could have done the job without removing the seat as the repair was above where the loom came out of the floor mat. Just goes to show that corrosion can and does take place even when the connections are not wet. If the joint was soldered originally then often the continuing action of the flux can cause preferential corrosion. I'm not sure what the joint consisted of but it clearly results in catastrophic breakdown. My understanding is that the chemical combining of elements (such as lead, tin and copper) in the soldering process with the corrosive affect of flux and water is the perfect storm! In Marine settings soldered joints are not recommend. Hope this helps someone.
 

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Hi,
Yeh sounds like the same fault. Worth checking as it's quite an easy repair. If you have a soldering iron solder the clean wires together for a solid join.
If anyone needs a new central locking module box I have a brand new one that I ordered from VW Germany as thought it was this before finding the corroded wire! Typical!

do you still have the box, I know this is an old fault? done the wire fix but still not locking off the fob so I presume its the CCU? if you've still got yours I'd happily buy it off you?

bestest regards

Roo Newby
078105 874907
 

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does anybody have the part number for this CCU? been onto VW this morning abd they haven't goit a clue what I'm talking about which I find a bit strange! They seem to say that I need a new ECU and don't recognise a the abbreviation CCU, can anybody help?

Everything works on the van, the LED's on the doors flash, the key unlocks all the central locking but the fob flashes and doesn't do anything. I've checked the wires under the seat and all appear well so it seems I need this box that sits under the seat, can anybody help at al:bhd
 

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Brilliant post thanks!
Exactly the same problem with mine and this sorted it no problem.
Didn't even have to remove the seat:>
Thanks again.
Oh, I think that extra red wire that goes nowhere might be if you have an optional extra sliding door...... maybe........
 

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Would this fix work on a T4 as well?

Mine is acting up like crazy! Locking/unlocking at will, or should I say unwillingly!
 

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Passenger side doorlock only open but not lock with remote. Every else doors working normaly. Is there some corroded microswich or something in lock behind door panel ? Or where i should start to find problem ? :)
 

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Ok so have checked all wiring all ok and found out that the Box itself was duff my question is can I just replace the central locking module (BOX) or do I need the key coded to the new box via VCDS?
 

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Ok, so here is my problem which is related but completely different to every other post in this thread (I think).

The deadlocks on my van only work if either or both of the front windows are down. They stay working as the windows are progressively raised, until it / they get near to the top, say 1” away and then the doors will only lock, but not deadlock. It also happens sometimes if one or both of the sliders are open.

When the windows are up and everything is closed the doors lock, the deadlocks don’t activate and the lock button LED registers that their is a fault by showing a continuous red LED for thirty seconds.

If the windows are down, everything locks and deadlocks and the LED blinks normally.

VW in Totton, Southampton had the van for three weeks and still couldn’t work it out. It’s going back to them on Monday the 18/06/18, to see if they can sort it.

The original fault was just that the doors were not deadlocking. VW checked things over and said that a new J519 ECU was required. That apparently cured a fault, but I they haven’t told me what that was.

Anybody come across this before or know what might be happening?

There has to be a link between some sort of sensor that measures the window position and the deadlocks, but unfortunately I don’t know the system well enough to know what that might be. I've trawled the forum and googled it but can't find anything that answers the problem, if anyone has any ideas, I would be very grateful.
 

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Hi
Been having a look through this post as I'm having the same problem with my passenger door, intermittent with key fob but it won't unlock even if I use the key in the drivers door.
There is no locking or unlocking noise coming from the door either, as it won't unlock with the key is it likely to be a similar wiring issue?
It a 2004 T5
thanks
Stefan
 

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Mine went a couple of weeks ago but my repair got delayed as a previous owner clearly lost the keys to the van and just had a new ignition barrel that the key fits. So when my locking went I couldn't get into the van at all!! £90 to a locksmith sorted that.
 

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Hi I have a 2013 t.5.1
Can anyone help with this . Central locking works on all doors except side sliding door,
It won’t lock or unlock with fob , only with the key ?
 
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