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Discussion Starter #1
Any ideas folk?

2007 VW T5. Electric windows failed both sides. BUT...

note: 30A canister fuse is behind slide-out controller box under driver dash panel - right by diagnostic connector. The 5A on lower fuse panel referred to in handbook is only for control circuit.

1- ignition off, pull 30A window fuse
2- replace with new fuse > windows work
3- leave van, lock doors, open again > windows still work.
4- come back an hour later > windows don't work
5- pull 30A windows fuse
6- replace with same fuse > windows work
7 - GOTO 3.

Just... what?! Any ideas??????????????

Is there some level of shutdown of comfort unit under drivers seat or parts of ECU that result in an initialisation check which would disable the window circuit? I mean, even if it detects the wrong resistance across fuse/motor/etc, how would pulling the fuse with ignition off for only a second make it turn the circuit back on?
Any ideas?
For ref, quite a few window prob threads, but I can't see this issue directly...
http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=242956
http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=326381
http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=277102

Thanks...
robin
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Took door card off today, unplugged and replugged all the connectors, same with connectors to comfort unit under drivers seat and on-board supply control unit under steering wheel.

Exactly the same.
Unlocked van this morning, and oddly the windows worked - so that's after many hours of them being off. Only until doors were locked and opened again.
After a fuse pull, key can go in and out of ignition and windows keep working. It is only after doors are locked, then unlocked (even for only a few seconds), that the windows don't work again. There have been occasions van has been locked and windows DO work though.

oh, no faults on VCDS btw.

still no further. Anything I can test, short of buying a driver door control unit?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Looked for other connectors under the drivers seat as per suggestion from LivingstoneSeagul on this board, but other than the connectors to the convenience unit, & a small multi-way connector on the empty relay carrier there are no other connectors. I've a feeling the only answer will be dealership approach of changing door circuit boards, then changing convenience unit and continuing on until the problem is solved and the electric windows cost £500 to keep running :/

Clearly a design fault somewhere - 2 other posts in the last few days with the same issue.
http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=347631&highlight=windows
http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=345064&highlight=windows
 

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Rob. The only other thing I can think of is the wire loom running from below gear stick to comfort module under drivers seat. There is a joint in it that corrodes which may be the problem. I could not see it as a fault on mine but. If my problem comes back then that would be my next course of action. Remove seats lift floor and see if I can see any corrosion and rectify. I may resite comfort module so it's off the floor of the van as it seems to have a bit of play.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Simon, thanks for that. I'll have a look at that one next.

I had a look at the problem with my friendly local VW indie chap today - we tried all sorts, but concluded that whilst a fuse-pull resets the passenger switch to work (without drivers side unit plugged in at all) it doesn't mean the drivers unit is NOT faulty as per my logic.

Plus another finding - windows worked well after some fiddling today... guessed temperature: put drivers side board in freezer for half an hour. guaranteed fail of windows ever time van was locked unlocked. Heated it up gently with hot air gun: works fine.

New drivers side unit ordered from TMS / fingers crossed.
 

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Hope it works for you buddy. I'm trying to find someone to look at the old control module to see if there is an obvious fault that can be fixed. Then possibly they can be repaired for a cheaper cost. I'm flat out with work at the moment but as soon as I have time I will look into it a bit better. When it warms up a bit I'm also going to remove seats to fit fatmax sound proofing so will look at joints in loom.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
thanks for asking... got round to putting the motor/controller unit in today.
Of course, the old one worked perfectly since Monday - but it was time to throw some money at it. I'll see how it goes over the next week and report back.
I just have a nagging worry that fiddling around under the drivers seat might have fixed things, but that would only be temporarily moving a bad wire or whatever. That classic corrosion on red/blue cable documented on other threads was not there - nice shiny join, so sealed it back up again.
 

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update for those with similar intermittent problems....like Si, it seems a new motor/pcb unit in the drivers door has fixed things for now.

I can buy a smartphone which plays music, surfs the web, runs apps, takes photos and calls people, for the same price as a temperamental board from the far east (available only with a french motor attached) which has a sole simple function of demultiplexing a signal to wind a window and door mirror motor back and forth.
 

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update for those with similar intermittent problems....like Si, it seems a new motor/pcb unit in the drivers door has fixed things for now.

I can buy a smartphone which plays music, surfs the web, runs apps, takes photos and calls people, for the same price as a temperamental board from the far east (available only with a french motor attached) which has a sole simple function of demultiplexing a signal to wind a window and door mirror motor back and forth.
Hi, I have just seen this, and my T5 is having the same issues. Looking forward to getting the PCB and seeing if that works.

rob
 

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Got similar window issue on my 2007 van . Mirrors etc all work but windows are intermittent .. Nothing for weeks then theyll work for a few days then gone again.. Over winter not too overly bothered but now it's getting warmer I will wanna opene em sometimes. Just scanned van e u etc with a reader but can't find any window related issues, but did erase fault code re voltage , as the van sits on drive a fair bit and I've run battery down fair few times and have had to recharge .. Wondered if this had messed the ecu up but scan says it was ok ? So maybe the pcb ?
 

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generally the convenience unit under the seat needs taking to places and cleaning with trich or cct board cleaner and if your lucky it will work again or it's a new board.
 

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Hi.

I just posted this on a different thread but I had similar problems. The electric windows and dashboard indicators were not working most of the time. I checked the box under the drivers seat which looked fine but I also resoldered the corroded joint on the central locking wiring there too (there is a thread somewhere in this forum). Ever since it was done I havent had any problems anymore (so far!). I wonder if there is some kind of electrical link between the windows/dashboard lights/central locking?

Julia.
 

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Hi.

I just posted this on a different thread but I had similar problems. The electric windows and dashboard indicators were not working most of the time. I checked the box under the drivers seat which looked fine but I also resoldered the corroded joint on the central locking wiring there too (there is a thread somewhere in this forum). Ever since it was done I havent had any problems anymore (so far!). I wonder if there is some kind of electrical link between the windows/dashboard lights/central locking?

Julia.
Central Convenience unit controls lights windows, doors etc but is connected to the other modules in the car an via the data bus, could affect the instruments I guess.
 

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Update on mine, new drivers module ordered fitted and .... All working .T:

Expensive but glad now I have windows that work.. Now for the elastic coupling rebuild.
 

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Thanks for the response above. Glad that I am not the only one!!

Update on mine,

I had new PCB/motor delivered for passenger side. All working both sides this time except the drivers buttons cannot operate the passenger window (not faulty switch but wrong pcb, i swapped them) ............ then I left it for an hour and it all stopped again.

I unplugged either side and it all starts working again.

So this time, just to make sure that the PCB were not interfering we each other. I pulled out the cables one at a time and left it. So for example I had the passenger side only plugged in and the driver side not plugged in. So only the passenger side working. Left for an hour, and not working. Unplug and replugged in. Starts working instantly.

Frustrating!!

Is there a relay or some sort of other electrical part that regulates the electric at all?

I have tested the voltage to the window motors and they read 12.4volts when they are working.

Looks like I will have to try and get another second hand PCB/Motor but this time for the drivers side.

Although, I am not sure why they stop after an hour!

cheers

rob
 
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