[BearHands]

Hey T5 people.

I've owned my white '56 plate T30 for nearly a year now, doing the usual; window fitting, sound deadening and insulation, rear seats etc. and generally using it to get around. The idea of this van is not for a full blown camper, but more a quick reliable daily driver, that I can carry my kids around in, that I can load motorbikes in the back, that I can sleep and holiday in etc etc.

Key to achieving step one (quick reliable daily driver) is the more powerful and stronger ASZ engine in place of the BRS lump in there now, and a six speed gearbox from the newer T5.1. Anticipated power with a GT1749V-S2 turbo I've got is around 180bhp. Obviously in the future I can go with bigger turbo etc, but right now I think thats a safe healthy figure.

I'm pretty sure I've got all the parts I need now, and I reckon I've found the solutions to the major issues. So this thread is more to document it for others, if they want to know whats involved etc.

 

[BearHands]

Quick intro to the van and the things I've already done:

Started off as a fairly minging stock panel van, I think it was used by a landscape gardener judging by the sheer quantity of compacted dirt everywhere. And I mean everywhere.

Fitted my own windows, first one was scary, second one was a piece of pi*s.

Carpet lined, fitted genuine VW leather bench seat in the back on the quick release feet, lights, loads of sound deadening and insulation on all surfaces.

Fitted Audi S-Line heated front seats from a B8 A4, used a drivers side seat base with the handbrake bracket cut off on the passenger side, then adapted the mounts with 2 pieces of 25x50 box section. Superbly comfortable, the best modification I have ever made to any vehicle. Still to wire in the heating once I upgrade the BCM.

 

[BearHands]

So, firstly there’s nothing new about what I’m doing here, its been done before, I’m just trying to put as much info as possible in one place just in case someone else wants to do the same. Also I haven’t yet found anyone posting about doing an ASZ and 6 speed on the same van.

Here’s some links to good info:
1.9 6 speed 260hp+ build
MK5 Platform EDC16 to MK4 Platform Engine conversion BLS / BXE / BKC / BJB to ASZ / ARL Conversion
Transporter T5 1.9 PD & T5.1 2.0CR 5 Speed to 6 Speed Conversion

Best fiche site for VWs that I have found, really useful for comparing part numbers:
Volkswagen Parts catalog - ETKA Online, Volkswagen EUROPA, original Catalog Volkswagen EUROPA

Useful information regarding the ASZ swap, most of it is covered by the Darkside page, but they don’t go into detail on certain things:

First thing; choose your engine carefully. VW in their infinite wisdom used two different block castings on the ASZ, one for the “long” oil filter and one for the “short”. You cannot swap the short filter housing onto a long filter housing block.
The long filter will foul the radiator shroud and the front engine mount. You could possibly get around this with grinding the mount (someone has done this) and getting slimline fans, but then its always going to be awkward changing the filter.
Short vs long filter housing and mating flanges:

The short filter housing is found on the VW Sharan/Seat Alhambra/Ford Galaxy engine, and I have heard also on the Fabia engine (not confirmed), there may be others (Audi A3 maybe?) but I went with an Alhambra lump, mostly because it was local and cheap.
I have heard someone has made an adapter plate to put the short housing onto the long block, but I didn’t want to mess with the oil system so I just got the right block in the first place…

As detailed on the Darkside page you need to use the cam pulley hub from an EDC16 vehicle, P/N 038 109 239 L. And the sensor 03G 957 147 B. Or both can be removed from the original van engine.

The sump and oil pickup is different on the van (engine sits at a different angle so pickup moves accordingly, and bellhousing bolt holes are positioned differently on the sump), I ordered new so I can build the engine completely before the swap or you can use the ones from your van.

I had to grind the corner off the block around one of the bellhousing bolt holes as the sharp corner fouled the gearbox near the driveshaft, this may only be required for the 6 speed gearbox.

Making the hole for the crank sensor took a while, you need to take a lot out to clear the plug but obviously I didn’t want to take too much strength away. You cant use the original Alhambra sensor as it is a different type for the EDC16 ECU in the van (hall effect vs inductive)

As per Darkside you need to use the rear main seal 038 103 171 S (buy new!) and the crank sensor 036 906 433 E (can use the one from the van).

Engine mount holes were all in place on my engine, just needed cleaning out with a tap. Need to use the original T5 1.9 mounting bars front, back and the bridge around the timing belt.

I’ll post the info about the gearbox swap in the next few days.

 

[64 SPLIT]

Love threads like this! Really useful for others that might want to attempt the swap but also just interesting to see what's possible. Best of luck with the conversion 👍

 

[BearHands]

Love threads like this! Really useful for others that might want to attempt the swap but also just interesting to see what's possible. Best of luck with the conversion 👍

Thanks for the feedback, I was starting to wonder if anyone was actually interested in this, so I hope someone gets some use out of this thread one day.

Just to add to my last post, I have just found out that although the oil filter housing on my ASZ is the same, the oil cooler which sits underneath is different, the hoses exit sideways on the van instead of vertical on the original car. For £26 I just bought a new cooler but you could of course take the one off the van engine.

 

[BearHands]

Here is the information I have found regarding the 6 speed swap, I am focused on the 1.9 pre-facelift T5, though the T5.1 with the 2.0 will be similar.

At the moment I am 90% there, I’ve got the parts and I’ve mocked up my engine block to the gearbox, but I haven’t got to the point of fitting the engine and ‘box to the van, so there are a couple of things I’m concerned about which I’ll get to later.

Why do it? I use my van for everything, I do 500+ a month, mostly on the motorway so I want to be able to cruise at lower revs for MPG and less noise. Also the stock 5 speed clutch is apparently only good to 170bhp/300ftlb, and when I was looking there wasn’t an off-the-shelf uprated clutch. The gearbox is apparently good for 200bhp/330ftlb.

Why shouldn’t I do it? Cost! The gearbox alone was over £1k, the clutch and flywheel cost over £700. That’s without all the other parts I’ve had to buy and I’m just ignoring. I should have just saved my money and bought a T5.1 with the 6 speed already, but personally I love the PD engines, and I enjoy a project. So, I am doing it and I have already spent the money.


As per my last post the Darkside page covers most of this. Parts required;

0A5 Gearbox from a T5.1 2L diesel, codes: KUP, MKB, MQX, PAP, PAT, PAU, PAV, NTF. These were fitted to the 136 (CAAE or CCHB), 140 (CAAC or CCHA) and 182 (CFCA) bhp vans. I’ve got the MQX.

You can NOT easily use the 6 speed from the 2.5L T5 as the bellhousings are a totally different bolt pattern, and I have no idea if the clutch/flywheel would mount up to the engine. Maybe its possible with an adapter plate? But it would be a shed load of work and not, IMHO, worth it.

Clutch and flywheel; Sachs dual mass flywheel 2294 002 165, Sachs SRE pressure plate P/N 883082 001394, Sachs SRE organic friction disc P/N 881864 002540 (rated to 407 ftlb), Sachs concentric release bearing P/N 3182 654 150. It was much cheaper to shop around searching by Sachs part number, I got the flywheel, pressure plate and release bearing from AutoDoc and the friction disc from fleabay for all-in around £760, vs Darkside who want £1008. You will also need the 2L 6 speed starter motor.

Gear selector cables; these are specific to the 6 speed, make sure you get the cable mounting bracket either with the gearbox or the cables.

Try to get the bellhousing bolts with the gearbox, I didn’t, I’ve had to buy the special double ended studs from VW (not too expensive) and the rest I am using 12.9 socket cap bolts and thick washers.
You will also need the thin sheet metal cover plate which gets sandwiched between the block and the bellhousing, Darkside didn’t mention that one…

As in my last post I had to modify one of the engine block mounting points, as it fouled the gearbox next to the driveshaft. Now this might be specific to the ASZ, I’m just glad I found out before I built the engine!

Driveshafts; both are different to the 5 speed, I bought new SKF ones from AutoDoc tho you could get second hand ones from fleabay. The support bearing for the driver side driveshaft is in a different position which means you have to modify the engine mount.

Engine mount; The rear engine mount on all T5’s (and T4’s) have a mount for the drivers side driveshaft carrier bearing. But its in a different position on the 1.9 to the 2L. The 2L mount doesn’t mount up to the ASZ engine for sure (I bought one to try) and I don’t believe it fits the BRR/BRS either.
I used pictures in Shaun L ‘s thread as a guide (link in my engine post). Darkside now sell the mount already modified for an eye-watering £420, or they can modify your mount for £240. This wasn’t available when I started so I’ve done it differently, but I do think their solution is better than mine.

Mocking up and marking out the 1.9 engine mount:

Cutting out for clearance, I then welded material back in to close off the cut-out:

Machined block bolts to original mounting holes (no bearing mounting holes drilled yet):

Bolted back up to the mocked-up engine:

Inside the mount is a machined steel spreader plate to help support the aluminium block, probably overkill but I’m not overly happy with my aluminium welding:

 

[BearHands]

Now there are only 3 things I’m not sure about yet, I am hoping that someone may have done this before and can offer some insight, otherwise I’ll find out at the end of the month when we try to swing the engine and ‘box in;

1. Darkside mention using the front engine mount from the 2L, from pictures online they look a different shape, but appear to have the same engine and subframe mounting bolt hole positions relative to each other. Do I need to use it? I think not as I will be using the 1.9 rear mount, so logic suggests the 1.9 front mount will be in the right place. Fingers crossed.
2. Clutch line, again Darkside mention you need to use it, but I cant find one for sale at the moment. I think its because the slave cylinder is in a different location and I’m hoping I can just make up a new copper line using my brake line tool to go from the clutch master cylinder to the flexible hose.
3. Gearbox mount, I’ve bought the 2l 6-speed mount, but until I get it in position I have no way of checking the location is right.

 

[jsh]

hi why a 1.9 and not a 2.0pd

 

[64 SPLIT]

Impressive work and skills - I wouldn't know where to start with something like this so I applaud you for taking it on. I dunno if anyone else is following your thread, but it's definitely interesting reading and following your progress so keep the updates coming! 😁 👍

 

[WillsT5Ted]

I've only just found this thread and it really is interesting!
Way, way over my head but it really is impressive what you're doing! It doesn't matter if it was easier going a different route, the work you're putting in should and will give you exactly what to want without compromise! Keep it up!👍

 

[BearHands]

Again, thanks for the feedback guys, I don't feel like I'm really doing any real engineering as most of the information is out there, its just taken a lot of googling and reading other peoples work to get all the info into one place!
The beauty of this conversion is using as many original VW parts as possible (the exception being the mount).

If you want to see a real engineering thread have a look at my mates T4, we've been fitting a 6 speed O2M and he built a hot AFN engine with PD rods etc:

T4 6 speed conversion

Hi I'm in process of putting 6 speed 02M in my Van. Should fit AFN, AHU,ABL engines. Maybe others. So I took the following out of a donor MK4 Golf with a PD130 Motor -02M gearbox Shiftower and cables. Speed sensor and loom cut Clutch pipework. Flywheel and clutch (will be replaced with...

www.vwt4forum.co.uk

 

[BearHands]

hi why a 1.9 and not a 2.0pd

So primarily I'm going with the 1.9 PD130 because externally its the same as the BRR I'm removing, I can use the mounts etc which were designed for the van. Now the 2l twin cam engine MAY take those mounts, it MAY fit in the engine bay, but its too much of an unknown for me to invest in an engine etc.

Secondly the ASZ can be adapted to run on EDC16 ecu system with the mods I've listed, maybe the 2L can, I dont know. But this has been done enough that FADR are happy to create a base map for me to run without even putting the van on the dyno at first.

Lastly, is there any benefit to the 2l? I know they have a weak point on the oil pump. My engine could be tuned to 250+ bhp with just a turbo and nozzles (I'm already using PD150 head bolts) so I'm not chasing big power numbers.

I think the 1.9 is the straight forward way to reliable power in a T5.

 

[BearHands]

Any eagle eyed readers out there noticed a difference between my last post and my first?

I thought my van had a BRS engine (102bhp), turns out its a BRR with 84bhp... so with my ASZ running a conservative 180bhp I should be WELL over double the original power 🤣

 

[jsh]

ive got a t4 with a 2.0tdi 16v pd and the 6 speed dsg
i found that it was extremely tight for space on the gearbox side
also the drive shafts are very close to the shocks so at the mo im running kyb there ok but mo where near as good a sachs hd
i did have a lot of fun wiring the dsg as we have no abs its not easy to get around
would love to see your van when finished

 

[jsh]

oh and i was after a long distance cruiser so the golf gearing is good 120mph at 5k in 5th gear then it changes into 6th well that what it did in the car not done then sort of speeds in the t4
so i should still get 50 plus mpg and running just a stage 1+ big mk5 golf intercooler plus a few little mods so must be 180 to 190 bhp it is a bkd engine code not sure i want to push it more as the stock brakes are a pile of poo

 

[jsh]

i only used this set up as i had a seat altea with 240k plus and the rear end was getting rusty so i had the whole car i did think about cutting the inner wings out and puthing struts on the front but give upon that idear
good luck and keep us posted

 

[BearHands]

ive got a t4 with a 2.0tdi 16v pd and the 6 speed dsg
i found that it was extremely tight for space on the gearbox side
also the drive shafts are very close to the shocks so at the mo im running kyb there ok but mo where near as good a sachs hd
i did have a lot of fun wiring the dsg as we have no abs its not easy to get around
would love to see your van when finished

Holy smokes, thats pretty impressive! I wouldnt even want to do DSG on my van (where there is a straight swap available) because of the complexity, let alone one from a totally different car! I take my hat off to you sir.
Not entirely convinced you could get 50mpg+ tho, I had a MK5 golf with the later 2l CR engine and it struggled to get 50MPG, and the T4 isnt the most aerodynamic vehicle...
PowerManDan is working on a big brake conversion for his T4, I'll try and ask him what hes using, it sounds like it would be well placed on your van!

 

[BearHands]

So I'll try and get up to speed with where I'm at now, picture heavy over the next few posts;

Engine as I bought it, £150 from FB Marketplace, came from a 2004 Seat Alhambra with apparently 140k miles, no idea if that's true but it was quite clean inside, largely irrelevant as I've rebuilt it.

I think it might have had a dodgy EGR...

Strip down went well, internally it looked clean enough

Modifying the block for the cranks sensor and shaving the corner of the mounting bolt lug left it covered in metal dust:

So I bought a paraffin gun and 20l of heating oil (kerosene) and proceeded to cover my entire garage and myself in stinky kero.

But it was worth it. Those are the new shells, no idea why only one of the new shells has the Irox coating, and there was no instructions anywhere as to the location of the red shell, found a picture online which suggested it should be at the timing end 🤷‍♂️ and yes I did remove the oil squirters during cleaning and sprayed through every oil gallery.

At the end of each session in the garage I wrapped the engine back up using a wheelie bin liner

 

[jsh]

heres a few pics
the 48.8 mpg for 62m was from Eastbourne to east grinsted up the A22 not a motorway run and being told to slow down by the mrs in a seat altea
i did run into a lot of problems with K-line and can bus not liking each other and no abs was an issue but been driving for a year not with a couple of small problems but now sorted only got recovered once when i snapped a drive shaft was my fault for grinding off some case hardening

 

[64 SPLIT]

Some really impressive work on both counts! 👌