Great write up & diagnostics , thanks for sharing

 

I've added some more info as an edit..

 

Great write up!
Bluezie, or anyone else in the know-
I have this problem with my 05 1.9.
Left rear sensor. Fault on diagnostics with abs and trac light on the dash.
im only getting 0.2 v to the brown plug under the pass seat!
Any idea what to check next?
Hoping it’s not the abs module gone down.
Thanks.

 

Excellent write up bluezie. Yours looks the RH side and the same thing often happens on the LH side. There is a typo on the code though. 00282 is a throttle position code. Maybe 00287 for the rear right and 00290 for the left?

 

Well spotted, yes a typo had crept in! I lost my VCDS log, so was writing the code from memory, but now found the log, and added it above.

 

Any idea if this would be the same on a 2010 facelift model?

 

I've looked at the wiring diagram for a 2015 M/Y, and essentially yes, it's very similar, wire colours are all the same, and the potential failing joint is still in the bottom of the D pillar.

 

Thanks for the quick reply Bluezie - appreciated 👍

 

Nice write up - really helpful! cheers

 

I’m getting 4.15 volts at all test points for the left rear wheel (over 11.5 for the other wheels. Looks like the abs controller for me 😢 but great write up to give us an idea of where to start looking.

 

Have you pulled the loom out as per Bluezie's post? The same weak splice exists on both sides so that could explain your low voltage if that has a high resistance across it.

 

Thanks for a great write up. Just had the same fault code on mine, and same problem with the wiring which I am fixing, however I've noticed that even from the plug under the seat in only getting 11.09 volts with the engine running, and the same from the let hand side which didn't get an error code. You mentioned it should be 11.5 to 12, any idea if that means I might have a problem with my abs module?

 

Seems from other VAG forums that 11v from the abs controller is in fact normal for certain models, I have a 2011 4 motion highline. I repaired the corroded joints, which had already been repaired once before but badly, and all seems fine now so fingers crossed there is nothing else to worry about.

 

I had a N/S rear code and ABS light. Both sides showed 11.4v I think it was so I changed the sensor, cleared the code and that was that.

 

So obviously the green wire is the live I checked with my multimeter and it read something like 11.6 volts, seems in spec, but what's the other wire? An earth if so if I did a resistance test should it come back to 0, I've tried that and it's still saying 1 so it's not being earthed somewhere now this is a new wire I've installed, cut the brown wire (black in my case) and connected a new wire and fed I through the vehicle Al the way to the engine bay and tapped it into the already existing wire that goes into the large ßeveral pin plug that goes into the abs pump (I'm guessing) but I've still got the 00290 code and it wont clear, ì need ideas anyone got any?

 

Hi it won’t be an earth it will be signal. Have you checked where the OP said at the beginning of the post the wires go green and break. This was the fault on mine but I managed to do it without removing the light. I disconnected the wire at the abs sensor and un clipped the cable and fed it into the rear 3/4 panel and did the repair in there. The wire you think is earth will only give voltage when the wheel is turning.

 

hi has anyone got an image of the wires under the passenger seat I can’t seem to find to test

 

Just used this to fix my 2007 - would have been lost without it! Thank you!

 

So I have the same problem omn a58 plated T5 Sportline. Checked the plug under the passenger seat, 11.6 volts - engine running bouses around 13.8-14.1. found the wire leading down the inside panel down to the crommet and outside to the sensor. At a point south of where that 2 core loom feeds into the main loom I stuck a pin into the green wire and got very similar voltage, so at this point I thought the connectors talked about must be fine. Pulled the plug off the ABS when sensor and nowt in the way of voltage at that point. I opened up the main loom above where the ABS wire feed in, and above the point where I was getting a voltage, went as far as I could before it disappeared into the double skin of the rear pillar but I couldn't find any connectors.
I presume I have a break somewhere else in the wires down to the ABS - Any Thoughts appreciated

 

Hi many thanks for your instructions, the good news is that they were great and I managed to follow them easily. The bad news is that the crimped connections were fine so that was not the root cause of my ABS error.

My error was:
00287 – Right rear ABS wheel speed sensor: Implausible signal
Freeze frame
Priority: 1
Malfunction frequency counter: 1
Unlearning counter: 50
Odometer reading: 121043 km
Count: 20736
Count: 3
Count: 89
Count: 506

So maybe the sensor is no good or the magnetic disc on the hub is at fault.

After putting it back together I reset the fault but it returned immediately, or rather an slightly different electrical connection fault (maybe I cocked it up when I put it back together - I dont have this code to hand).

I'll check it after a longer drive and might need to refer to the local garage to replace the sensor, I could not quite see how the check the sensor plug.

Thanks again for the instructions.
Gav
2015 T5.1

 

If it wasn't a genuine sensor or a good quality well known make, blame the new sensor first. I'm guessing your new code was 'Electrical fault in sensor' which usually is accurate. Most of the wiring faults or ABS ring corroded faults show 'Implausible signal' like you original fault code.

 

Thanks, I've done a short trip and reset it and it returned to the implausible signal fault. The sensor is the original factory fitted sensor so maybe next step is to replace that.

Thanks
Gav

 

When you said 'After putting it back together I reset the fault but it returned immediately' I thought you had replaced the sensor. Fitting a new sensor is a fairly easy and cheap job. If it won't come out you might have to drill the plastic out of the hole in the hub. Make sure not to drill past the sensor and into the ABS ring on the hub as I've read some do!

 

Thanks for that, sorry about the confusion - I meant after I'd put the wheel, loom and light etc. back in place.

Will have a think about trying to replace the sensor if I can find the right PN.

Gav

 

if I can find the right PN

Different part numbers for left and right. Have a look on the bay, there's lots to choose from. I went for a cheap one (£10?) And its worked perfectly for me.
You could try swapping front and rear sensors to see if the fault moves with the sensor. That would give a pretty good indication that it really is a sensor fault.

 

Thanks Andy - I've tracked down the part numbers and will see how it goes.

Gav

 

OK - I'm back, I ended up getting the replacement sensor from Just Kampers, it wasn't the cheapest but I had a discount due to my insurance and I was happy to go with a supplier I'd used before. Having finally recovered from doing my back in, I borrowed a trolley jack and axle stands for the job, and someone's drive (ours slopes).

Each step went OK with some patience, eased the connection off, managed to get the hex head bolt out, getting the sensor out took longer and involved WD40, patience and gentle screwdriver and hammer persuasion - but in the end I managed to get it out and clean up the area. Went to get some of the grease mentioned in a couple of posts and put the new one in (still needed a gentle tap), reconnected it.

Having reset the error codes with the Carista and done a short test drive all seems well, so thanks for all the advice here.

Now I am left with an unconnected EGR error which I think is probably beyond me to repair so will use the local garage for that one - I'm expecting it to be expensive.

P0401 – Exhaust Gas Recirculation "A" Flow Insufficient Detected
Freeze frame
Calculated load: 34 %
Coolant temperature: 61 °C
Intake manifold pressure: 120 kPa
Engine rpm: 1842 RPM
Vehicle speed: 56 km/h
Intake air temperature: 23 °C
Air mass value: 30.24 g/s
Absolute throttle position: 31 %
Time since engine start: 470 sec.
Fuel rail pressure: 54900 kPa
Commanded EGR: 84 %
EGR error: -49.82 %
Ambient air pressure: 101 kPa
Battery voltage as seen by the engine ECU: 14.22 V
Relative throttle position: 29 %
Outside temperature: 15 °C
Absolute throttle position D: 26 %
Absolute throttle position E: 26 %
Commanded throttle actuator position: 29 %

Regards,
Gav

 

Hi!

did these two show ut same time for you?

I have a situation where EGR and ABS started showing up same day.

sometimes even lighting up the Dynamo warning.

this happened during -20C temperature and I started suspecting some water around connectors somewhere.

problems went away in spring and stay away all summer.

now winter came and the ABs problem came back.

I have a left hand drive van and I am not sure where to look for the ABS wire connectors in this thread?

is it typically right or left side that fails?

will the cables be under driver side or passenger seat in my van, so that I can measure there?

Thank you kindly guys!

any heads up I will appreciate!