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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all

Quite a frustrating problem and wondering if anyone has any ideas

the outer handle works fine in all situations - but the inner one seems to only work if I lightly close the door onto the first click of the latch. If I close the tailgate with a proper slam, it’s almost like it’s double locking it, and the inner handle doesn’t work

however,the inner handle doesn’t just pull up and do nothing - it actually pulls up and gets stuck.

I opened it up, and can see that the pulling rod is coming out of the plastic elbow clip whenever this happens - as you can see on the left of th

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not quite sure why this would be... any ideas?

here are some other pics of the mechanisms

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that’s with the door closed and unlocked - but pulling the inner handle will then bring The pulling rod on the left both up and out, breaking that elbow clip

Any help or suggestions much appreciated

thanks all!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Brief update - it appears that the locking mechanism, when the door is shut, is either too tight, or the pulling rod connection is too loose, causing the following connection of metal pulling rod to plastic elbow connector to slip and come loose in the connection:

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So that piece of ribbed metal on the pulling rod towards the top of the red circle is pulling the lower black plastic piece up, to unlock the door, BUT it slips when the door is closed as there’s too much for eve required- coming out of the plastic connector

has anyone else had a similar issue?

perhaps the plastic connector is a little old and the grip is gone... or perhaps the actual locking mechanism itself is now somehow too tight

I’ve actually only noticed this starting to happen after carpetting my whole tailgate. Am wondering if I knocked anything or the slightly more bulged tailgate door rubber trim (due to carpet tucked under) May have something to do with it
 

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I would guess that this problem is because of a few things, (1) the mechanism is used & has become worn & weakened the grip of the operating rod & the plastic clip that holds it is place. (2) The rubber door seal puts pressure on the door (to form a good seal) & the release mechanism when opening. Adding carpeting may well have increased this pressure on the mechanism to the point where it just can't cope any more, hence your problem.

If possible I would try removing the carpet from around the affected door & try it's operation with just the door seal in place.
If it does resolve your issue I would guess the only things you could do would be to either get a new, un-worn mechanism (but that would most likely fail at some point in the future) or try & trim the carpet so that it does not add any added pressure to the door when it is closed.

The only other thing you could do is to press hard against the door & then operate the door handle. That way you would be taking some of the pressure off the door lock mencahism when it is trying to release.
 

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So that piece of ribbed metal on the pulling rod towards the top of the red circle
I may be misunderstanding what you're saying, but isn't that ribbed metal just a threaded section, so that you can undo the plastic clip and rotate it on the rod to adjust the length? Have you tried adjusting like that?
 

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I think Triffic could be right. The LH rod could be set too long. It certainly looks that way compared to mine in this discussion. If the rod is adjusted to be too long it may force that bridge clip to pop off. Not quite sure why that should stop the tailgate opening though because the bridge clip only stabilises the rod.

NB Your lock is only single locked in your pic. The right hand rod deals with double locking as I mentioned in the linked thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks so much everyone for the replies - been super helpful and believe you're all absolutely correct!!

I can update that:

- With the tailgate rubber trim removed, the inner handle does then work. However, I had to adjust the vertical 'pin' (the bit that receives the locking mechanism, attached to the bottom of the van rather than the tailgate itself) to be as far back as possible
- With the pin any further towards the front of the van, the stress on the LH rod seems too much, and it slips in the plastic elbow again as per what was happening before
- Adding the trim back in means that too much stress is place on the rod and plastic elbow again, meaning it slips again (even in the new pin position)

So - @T5 TDI and @triffic you are compeltely right that the rod needed to be threaded to be set 'shorter' - However, this means that the metal rod simply slips out of the plastic elbow below it when there's too much stress put through - e.g. when the rubber trim is added back on (or if the pin is moved further back). I note that if i hold this grip in place (effectively increasing the amount of grip between the LH rod and plastic connector), then it does indeed work. So the grip and/or amount of force required seems to be the issue

I've ordered a new plastic elbow part (not sure if thats the right word - but basically, the bit in the bottom of the red circle) - because hopefully that will then grip the metal LH pulling rod better and allow the inner mechanism to work

Failing that... I'm a bit out of ideas!! May just need to araldite the two together to ensure a stronger connection, but i don't know how sustainable that would be . The design of the connection also confuses me and i wonder why it wasn't made stronger in the first place... and actualyl wondering if this is designed specifically to be a failsafe? Ie. it is actually supposed to slip in certain situations? (e.g. a person breaking the back window and trying to open the tailgate from the inner handle?) Any knowledge greatfully received

Thanks again all for the wise thoughts
 

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While you are waiting for the parts it's worth doing a basic check on the mechanical release part of the lock to confirm that it is working correctly. You can do this by opening the tailgate and using a screwdriver to close the lock (in the tailgate) manually past its two clear positions. Then when you pull either the outer or inner handle it should release the lock fully immediately. If nothing happens when you pull the handle, fix this problem first! Be careful not to slam the tailgate down with the lock in the closed position..

The rods can get slightly bent so that the 'pop' joints are more keen to hop off. The only thing I can suggest about that is to watch what is going on as the lock releases and see if the rod looks it is under stress outwards. About ten years ago the tailgate on my van refused to open from the outside. I had to crawl over the top of my plywood centre partition (at extreme gonad pain!) to get at the the hidden inner handle. I found a rod had popped off and popped it back on. Two weeks later the same thing happened again and I had to to do the same gonad-squashing thing again. This time I tweaked the offending rod a little until it looked happier and it's been ok ever since.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ahhh interesting - thanks for that T5!

regarding the first point - yes that’s all fine, the handles work on the mechanism when manually shut

on the second point, yeah the rod does seem to want to pop outwards every time-snapping open the upper black clip as well as slipping in the lower black connector already mentioned

ill try twisting a little but this may still work better / grip better with the new piece once arrived. Will update soon

thanks again!!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
UPDATE - as Cat pointed out, it does indeed appear to have been an issue with the trim pressure due to the wrap around carpets. I’ve cut that back from underneath the rubber tailgate trim, so it’s only on the inside (rather than wrapping around to create all that extra thickness). I’ve also got the pin of the tailgate lock adjusted to be as far to the rear of the van as possible.

t5- to your point I did actually see the rod was popping inwards a little- so also have added the cable tie picture which seems to keep it from doing so - making it work nice and smooth

this is all now working before the replacement part even arrived! I may add that just for a ‘belt and braces’ approach too

Thanks all for the help !
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Update #2 - scratch that! It then stopped working after about 3 more pulls. Clearly it lessened the pressure but not enough

The new part came and it was immediately super obvious just how worn and used the old one was. So I’ve popped that in and NOW it works a treat..!

comparison of old versus new:

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so you can see why the rod was repeatedly slipping in the old one

thanks again for the help!
 
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