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Nice work MrBen!!

On the seat bolts on the floor - we didn't fancy taking them off as we knew the amount of stuff that'd have to be removed from underneath, and to be honest they weren't posing a huge problem. So we actually kept them, built the plywood floor around them and stuffed insulation into them. Barely an issue at all in the end! Some pics in our forum here if helpful: 2005 2 door T5 Shuttle Conversion

All the best, look forward to seeing the updates!
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Nice work MrBen!!

On the seat bolts on the floor - we didn't fancy taking them off as we knew the amount of stuff that'd have to be removed from underneath, and to be honest they weren't posing a huge problem. So we actually kept them, built the plywood floor around them and stuffed insulation into them. Barely an issue at all in the end! Some pics in our forum here if helpful: 2005 2 door T5 Shuttle Conversion

All the best, look forward to seeing the updates!
Wow what an idea, you didn't have any issues with added floor height and steps etc?
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
So while the van is locked away at the garage over Xmas I decided to go at the bonnet. Yet another lesson learnt always check under the bonnet bra when buying! This was the state of it:
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You can see someone in the past did a very rough paint job, tried to flat it off and gave up!
So out came the power sander and I tried to smooth it out however the paint was so flaket I had to keep op going until.
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That's as far as I got last night before being told off by my neighbours 🤔
I'll carry on this afternoon and pick up some high build primer then warm up the cans of reflex silver.
 
Also after lifting out the rear seats does anyone have any experience removing these plates? I'm guessing the fuel tank will be in the way?
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I have only just seen your post, so I hope this info is not too late. I removed my bolts and brackets, but did not remove the fuel tank or exhaust, only the plastic undertrim. I just lowered the tank (when it was nearly empty).
From what I remember I think there are 3 straps holding the tank on secured with bolts, I first removed the centre strap and 2 bolts, I replaced the 2 bolts with threaded rod, then put the strap back on and secured it back in place with a nut, I then did the same with the other two straps, I disconnected the filler pipe from the b post on the passenger side, then I gradually unwound the nuts a bit at a time which lowered the tank (still supported by the straps), just enough to give room to get at the nuts securing the seat brackets. I had a mate with me who from inside the van pressed down on each bolts so it did not pop up when I unscrewed the nut.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
So update! The van is back and purring sweet. 4k mistake right there but atleast we have an engine fitted with considerably less miles on it.
So moving forward I managed to take out the rear seat brackets and have started thinking Bout floor options. Also while the van was in the garage they pointed out the brakes are all shot! All discs and pads to replace plus one rear caliper was binding! How did this thing get a clear mot with no advisories I'm starting to wonder....
This weekends job is to fit new discs and pads all round plus new disc covers and new calipers on both rear brakes.
While the old discs were on I took the chance to pai t the calipers Halfords boy racer red.
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We also have ordered our kitchen units from evo motion design down the road and gone for a rather daring red gloss kitchen. This has led us to change plan on the outside colour and go for a sleeker dark silver metallic.
As it stands this is the new plan via a quick photoshop.
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Seats too are on order with our front captains chairs being upholstered while we have a matching rnr bed made. Plus glass has arrived for drivers side window plus rear tailgate. All happening finally and getting very excited!
 
Your vans sounding very similar to how mine has ended up! However the other way round!😂

Had new discs pads and calipers up front only to find that the engine was completely knackered! Cracked engine block and head! Still waiting for mine to come back but looking forward to him being as he should as you say!

Its a set back you don't want but think, the van is going to last you far longer than you originally thought so works out in the long run!!

Youre can is going to look amazing when it's done so looking forward to seeing the progress!👍😝
 
Discussion starter · #28 · (Edited)
What a nightmare! I'm somewhat glad it wasn't that way around haha.

So today got the front discs and pads done, this weekend I will tackle the rear discs, pads and calipers too. Does anyone know if I need to bleed the brakes after replacing the calipers? I've watched a YouTube video and they just let the air out the bleed valve on the new caliper?

Anyway photo time:
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before anyone mentions it I realised after taking the photo the caliper clip wasn't on correctly and sorted it out.
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Shiny! I need to touch up the red caliper paint but I will be changing the alloys soon anyway.
 
What a nightmare! I'm somewhat glad it wasn't that way around haha.

So today got the front discs and pads done, this weekend I will tackle the rear discs, pads and calipers too. Does anyone know if I need to bleed the brakes after replacing the calipers? I've watched a YouTube video and they just let the air out the bleed valve on the new caliper?

Anyway photo time:
View attachment 188946 before anyone mentions it I realised after taking the photo the caliper clip wasn't on correctly and sorted it out. View attachment 188947
Shiny! I need to touch up the red caliper paint but I will be changing the alloys soon anyway.
Somehow my mechanic when replacing my front calipers was able to disconnect the pipe and not let any fluid out so he was able to carry on without needing new brake fluid or to bleed them! I even questioned him asking im surprised there's no fluid on the floor. He replied saying, ive done this for many years, you gain a few tricks!😂
 
If it was me, i would still want to bleed the brakes anyway. Even if your new caliper was prefilled with fluid and he used a hose clamp on the bottom of the brake hose there's still a chance for an air lock .
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Had a spare afternoon yesterday so stripped out the rear floor lining as I knew it was a grease pit underneath. Gave it a good clean and removed close to half a tonne of soil, sand and general crop found under linings haha.
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But now looking ready for some soundproofing and ply. I also filled the old seat mount points with some super sealant stuff I bought to do the 240v hookup point.
Also the swivel seat base arrived from just kampers so that got bolted in as we are waiting for our seats to come back from the upholstery place. Note the workshop manual never leaves the passenger door :LOL:
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Then I still had some spare time so decided to swap out the old alloys for the new ones we had picked up. I also got some cheap wheel nut covers from ebay and they smartened up the whole look I think.
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Current state of play is I thought I'd fixed the rear drivers side caliper however I drove it last night and found that one wheel got very hot. I'm thinking its still binding even though I got movement in it so I'll have to grit my teeth and change it over. I'm not looking foraged to bleeding the brakes after years of horror stories from my dads attempts on his various land rovers.
Other than that its sand sand prime prime and get the bottom half smooth and ready for wrapping.
 
Looking forward to seeing how your wrap progresses, I'm thinking about the same option to fix some cosmetics 😂do you mind if I ask how much they're charging for the half wrap?
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
I really needed a crud meter to show the extent of it, think chernoble photos :LOL:
As for the wrap its lots of prep on the paintwork (more than I expected). They say every slight scratch or blemish unless sanded smooth will be accentuated. Also non primed plastic is a no! As for price most people are around the £900 mark for a full bottom wrap in metallic. Some people have told me spraying is more cost effective but I like the idea of vinyl as the bumper can be re-wrapped anytime there's a slight hiccup in the carpark ect.
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
Also pop top will be booked Monday with tc's poptops in Birmingham. They have good reviews and seem reasonably priced. Then next weekend I have a family member helping me cut in the tailgate and side windows as he has done it before. Then seats due back in a few weeks so I'd better get the floor and carpet sorted!
 
Had a spare afternoon yesterday so stripped out the rear floor lining as I knew it was a grease pit underneath. Gave it a good clean and removed close to half a tonne of soil, sand and general crop found under linings haha.
View attachment 189257
But now looking ready for some soundproofing and ply. I also filled the old seat mount points with some super sealant stuff I bought to do the 240v hookup point.
Also the swivel seat base arrived from just kampers so that got bolted in as we are waiting for our seats to come back from the upholstery place. Note the workshop manual never leaves the passenger door :LOL:

Then I still had some spare time so decided to swap out the old alloys for the new ones we had picked up. I also got some cheap wheel nut covers from ebay and they smartened up the whole look I think.


Current state of play is I thought I'd fixed the rear drivers side caliper however I drove it last night and found that one wheel got very hot. I'm thinking its still binding even though I got movement in it so I'll have to grit my teeth and change it over. I'm not looking foraged to bleeding the brakes after years of horror stories from my dads attempts on his various land rovers.
Other than that its sand sand prime prime and get the bottom half smooth and ready for wrapping.
That floor puts mine to shame! Is it actually painted?
 
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