[drphill]

I would like an extra usb outlet or two on top of the dash to power the webcam and such. Currently I use a cigarette lighter-to-usb adapter hangig out of the ashtray thing, but that is untidy clutter.

Can I mount a usb socket in the 'top tray'? This boils down to two questions, really - will there be enough room with a double-din radio, and is there a handy point to take 12v from under there?

Another solution might be replacing the (ridiculously complicated) double din radio with a simpler single din radio and mounting a blanking plate in the top of the head housing. The blanking plate could then have some bits added.


Yet another solution is this top tray if it would fit a T5.


Any thoughts, ideas or advice gratefully received.

Thanks

Phill

 

[triffic]

A facelift top tray will not fit a T5 (at least not without mods) because the dash curve is different. Fitting a USB socket should not be a problem, nor will wiring it up - either from the cig lighter feed or from Fuse 19 if you only want it on with the key in the ignition.

 

[drphill]

Thanks Triffic - that eliminates some possibilities.

I can certainly fit a usb outlet port into the top tray - if there is enough clearance. I guess it is time to lever off the top tray and look. I have not done stuff like this since I worked on my beetles (2 - 3 decades ago). Things have changed a bit since then......

Thanks for you help

Phill

 

[upspex]

I would be wary about fitting USB sockets vertically unless you keep something plugged in all the time. They are bound to fill up with carp otherwise.

 

[drphill]

Good point upspex. I had not thought of that, but the dash top may be a little less prone to carp. Most of the time there will be a dashcam plugged in to one, and I could device a blanking plate for the other... maybe.

Just removed the top tray - a doddle with the plastic tools.

The main problem appears to be that there is no clearance below the top tray for the body of such a switch, though there is a bit of plastic (the bit with the cryptic grid on it) that could be removed. Not necessarily comfortable with that.....

Maybe this kind of thing would work? Just one or two USB sockets on leads poking out of the top tray?

Found this: neat, but it is a little pricey.....:

Ah, this might work - mount it on the top tray, make a hole in it over that strange little pit. That will give clearance underneath for the body of a USB output socket. Something like this which is a switch as well....

 

[drphill]

Fitting a USB socket should not be a problem, nor will wiring it up - either from the cig lighter feed or from Fuse 19 if you only want it on with the key in the ignition.

How do I get to the cig lighter feed? Remove the dashboard central panel? Or do I need to remove more than that? Methinks I need a handbook..... is Haynes any use?

 

[Griffin29]

I put USB sockets on the dash where the switch blanks are but I also have a cable coming through the top tray that I can plug into my stereo (goes to the back so lids can control music from their phones - no bluetooth lol)

Under the removable tray is as you say another lump of plastic but mine was already drilled with holes easily big enough for a USB socket, I cant see there would be any real danger in doing it if you are careful. As I had a hole there already I put a short (about 1 inch diameter tube through it and put some flowers in it

I found a non-switched (ie permanently live) wire going to the stereo and used that but it looks like someone had added it rather than part of the original wiring.

 

[drphill]

Interesting, thanks Griffin29. I did look at the stereo power wires - there is one that looks like it has an in-line fuse. I will check the radio manual. It seems a little bit wrong doing it that way..... but if I have a fuse for protection the worst that can happen is that I keep blowing it.

The stereo is under-used - generally off or a little bit of FM radio. Too complicated for me to fiddle with on the move, and who wants to play music when camping? I do not want to talk on the phone even hands free when I am driving.

 

[Linesy]

Mines pre facelift and I picked up power from back of cup holder socket

 

[drphill]

linesy - thanks- I might be able to do that. I could do a tidier job if I could remove the cupholder to get access....

 

[MESMmack]

linesy - thanks- I might be able to do that. I could do a tidier job if I could remove the cupholder to get access....

Read this then, it might be of use. T:

 

[MESMmack]

Read this then, it might be of use. T:

Forgot the link sorry. :bhd

http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=394917

 

[drphill]

Forgot the link sorry. :bhd

http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=394917

Cracker - just what I need. And patience as well by the looks of things. If the bit arrives tomorrow I can play electrics.

Thank you MESMmack (and to DaveR for his picture post)

 

[drphill]

Thinking about this overnight, I wonder how much extra effort would be required to take my power from fuse 19. It seems like the better solution engineering-wise - far less likely to cause future confusion and cursing (especially if I label the wire with the fuse number).

Once I can remove the drinks tray, how far am I from being able to get to the connection points on the fusebox?

If I go that route, then what do I need to attach to the fusebox? Standard spades?

As always, your help is much appreciated.

 

[simonsas]

I added USB and made them switch from a relay

 

[Hoovie]

Are you sure 7 outlets are enough though? :*

(Opps , forgot the adapter on the right ... 8/9 outlets)

 

[Linesy]

are you sure 7 outlets are enough though? :*

(opps , forgot the adapter on the right ... 8/9 outlets)

lol:lol:lol:

 

[upspex]

Thinking about this overnight, I wonder how much extra effort would be required to take my power from fuse 19. It seems like the better solution engineering-wise - far less likely to cause future confusion and cursing (especially if I label the wire with the fuse number).

Once I can remove the drinks tray, how far am I from being able to get to the connection points on the fusebox?

If I go that route, then what do I need to attach to the fusebox? Standard spades?

As always, your help is much appreciated.

You could pick up from 19. You will need to remove the lower dash panel (grey one) to be able to remove the fuse boxes. You will have to splice into the brown/red wire at the back of the fuse. Alternatively you could use the T5 ign feed cable from here
http://www.travelvolts.com/Wiring-looms---upgrades-.html
This just plugs in to the front of the fuse box.

 

[drphill]

That is interesting, Upspex... I need to read up on these sort of options. While I can do small electickery things I am reluctant to do anything major without understanding the consequences.

For this job I eventually mounted the USB power points on the plastic behind the leisure battery (I had already mounted a voltmeter and switch there complete with fuse, so it was easy to add the USB ports.

For the DashCasm I used one of these - my radio had some wires to swap (ignition 12v /permanent 12v) using bullet connectors. So I created an insert for that point that split two bullet connectors from the one, and powered the new device off the other (permanent 12v, as the unit has a switch).

I cannot charge up eight mobile devices on the dashboard as I drive (looks well cool simonsas, but no that useful to me), but I can run my dashcam with just one wire with switch snaking out of the dash top. And I have not cut any original plastic or wires - and I can remove my addition without trace at anytime I need.

I thank everyone who has contributed to the thread - I am soaking up knowledge like a sponge. I did dismantle the plastic from the passenger door to the ashtray holder, So I know how to do it next time.

My next job will likely be beeping reversing sensors mounted entirely in the back doors/bumper. I have bookmarked a page for that.

Thanks all and happy motoring