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Thanks zulu, I am a bit paranoid about it tbh, I have these axle stands which I bought years ago, from halfords I think, there rated for 2000kg, so I Presume they would be OK?



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I also have a set of these, I use them as a backup set to the fixed leg ones I have.
If I'm going to be working completely underneath either the front or rear of a vehicle I use 4 stands, kind of a safety plan just incase one of the other stands slips off. And it does happen. You could also leave the jack in place if it's not in the way, just lower it a bit so the vehicles weight is on the stands.
Something to be very careful of is rocking the vehicle, easily done when swinging on a stubborn bolt, metal on metal slips surprisingly easily regardless of however many tonnes are pressing down on it.
Its a good idea to put a block of wood (20mm thick approx) between the axle stand and the chassis.
 

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2000kg is fine to jack up in the centre. The only thing is without a lot of faffing about you can't reach the flat centre part of chassis with a short jack. I've got a ten year old Draper but it has a low entry and is quite long in the chassis. The modern version would be something like this. It's expensive because it's good enough for professional use so it's not something you would chuck in a car boot. It's also quite long and heavy but it's perfect for a T5 if you are serious about doing a good proportion of your own work. Note the chassis length because it's that 705mm that really makes it. The 75mm saddle height also is much lower than the usual.

Reason I ask is the tyre fitter lifted my bus off the tow bar today, both rear wheels up, and I need a decent trolley jack, so was thinking if one that could cope with doing the same, being lazy really, think I might go with one of those and just do a corner at a time, to play it safe

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Jacking up under the towbar is stupid and dangerous. They are often tubular and the saddle is almost guaranteed to slip plus a towbar isn't designed for idiots to jack up a van on.
 

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I do quite a lot of work under my van and I've recently got a 3t low profile trolley jack from Halfords. It's brilliant, no idea why I persevered with a cheapo 2t one for so long.
 

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Wow! Second photo shows it set tall, I see.

The ones I’ve got are rated at 2 tonne per stand, so that’s plenty for one per side. I’ve never had to use the higher settings anyway - bottom is plenty high enough to have a proper job go at things..., that said, I’ve got a friend with metre high stands who used a truck jack to raise a T2 to shoulder height... but he’s mental :)

And there’s no such thing as paranoid: if it doesn’t feel right, stop. Then do it again until it does. As others have said, never rely on a jack alone. From my experience, even a lowered van can be hoisted safely at either end on level hard ground, so go slow and carefully... which could be a motto for a lifestyle book....

Stay safe, over and out,

ZGZ
I only set the axle stand that tall for reference, I have never used them tbh, 1meter high sounds scary! Thanks

I also have a set of these, I use them as a backup set to the fixed leg ones I have.
If I'm going to be working completely underneath either the front or rear of a vehicle I use 4 stands, kind of a safety plan just incase one of the other stands slips off. And it does happen. You could also leave the jack in place if it's not in the way, just lower it a bit so the vehicles weight is on the stands.
Something to be very careful of is rocking the vehicle, easily done when swinging on a stubborn bolt, metal on metal slips surprisingly easily regardless of however many tonnes are pressing down on it.
Its a good idea to put a block of wood (20mm thick approx) between the axle stand and the chassis.
Don't think I'll ever be working completely underneath it, just very basic stuff tbh, good idea to keep the jack under though, just ordered a rubber top for my jack, hopefully to stop any slipping

2000kg is fine to jack up in the centre. The only thing is without a lot of faffing about you can't reach the flat centre part of chassis with a short jack. I've got a ten year old Draper but it has a low entry and is quite long in the chassis. The modern version would be something like this. It's expensive because it's good enough for professional use so it's not something you would chuck in a car boot. It's also quite long and heavy but it's perfect for a T5 if you are serious about doing a good proportion of your own work. Note the chassis length because it's that 705mm that really makes it. The 75mm saddle height also is much lower than the usual.



Jacking up under the towbar is stupid and dangerous. They are often tubular and the saddle is almost guaranteed to slip plus a towbar isn't designed for idiots to jack up a van on.
Well, I broke my halfords 2 tonne jack the other day , trying it out on the t5, so I ordered another 2 tonne low profile halfords jobby, I did look at various other jacks, with longer shafts etc, but I think they may be overkill for what I want, plus I want to put it in the boot of the t5, I'll avoid jacking up from the towbar, was a young lad doing it

I do quite a lot of work under my van and I've recently got a 3t low profile trolley jack from Halfords. It's brilliant, no idea why I persevered with a cheapo 2t one for so long.
Hope I don't regret my halfords jack lol.


Thanks chaps!

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I have a set of tree stumps rather than axle stands fhese days , no slippage and plenty of surface area to spread the load (y) .
Serious?

Just opened the trolley jack, looks spot on, much more beefy than the non low profile effort I had before.

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Can I use these 2 points to jack it up? I have full length side bars so the original jacking points are not accessible.



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No to the first one. Instead jack under the anti roll bar bracket. They are extremely strong and won't crush plus the jack saddle will be unlikely to slip. The second arrow is at the back of the front subframe and is fine but being tubular (less saddle contact) it is more likely to slip especially if the ground isn't smooth enough to allow jack wheels to move slightly to compensate for the arc the lifting-arm makes as it goes up. This effect is reversed when lowering, the jack wheels need to turn the other way so then the jack moves back towards you very slightly.
 

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As a general rule of thumb, place jack/stands where the chassis is double/triple skinned, beefy looking welded joints etc.

If you see the area flexing then try somewhere else.
 

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No to the first one. Instead jack under the anti roll bar bracket. They are extremely strong and won't crush plus the jack saddle will be unlikely to slip. The second arrow is at the back of the front subframe and is fine but being tubular (less saddle contact) it is more likely to slip especially if the ground isn't smooth enough to allow jack wheels to move slightly to compensate for the arc the lifting-arm makes as it goes up. This effect is reversed when lowering, the jack wheels need to turn the other way so then the jack moves back towards you very slightly.
Thanks drew, is the pic below the correct point? The jack rolling about when lifting has always been a bit off putting lol, I even tried wedging it once so it would move , makes sense it needs to have movement..... Oops!

Got a rubber cap for the jack now, so hopefully that will make slippage less likely.

As a general rule of thumb, place jack/stands where the chassis is double/triple skinned, beefy looking welded joints etc.

If you see the area flexing then try somewhere else.

Thanks, will keep this in mind


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Ive got one of these, brilliant jack 98mm to 535mm.

and these

always feels very safe and secure.
 

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Yep thats right Bill (y)
The jack wants to craddle that mount so it won't slip .
Top man!

Ive got one of these, brilliant jack 98mm to 535mm.

and these

always feels very safe and secure.
They look rock solid, I did look at that Jack but decided it was overkill for me and to big for the boot.

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