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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, clutch pedals going to the deck and not returning. Can't select a gear so I'm thinking the system has failed. Odd thing is I had the master and slave servo's change only last year.

Any way I can check to see what's happened without pulling the front end apart???
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Brilliant!!!!!!!
Never goes when it should. It's on a 2.5tdi 102 so it's a dual mass or whatever. I was about to drive down to Bristol for a night as well!!!!
 

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Ok, clutch pedals going to the deck and not returning. Can't select a gear so I'm thinking the system has failed. Odd thing is I had the master and slave servo's change only last year.

Any way I can check to see what's happened without pulling the front end apart???
Hope nothing to major pal, i aint no mechanic so wont wanna guess. hope you get sorted soon:(
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Can only guess its the clutch. Can't even force it into gear but can get the slightest of a crawl when holding the gearstick in the area of 1st. My mechanic is away for a week so I'll need to find someone else to do it or we won't be at Bude!!!!

As I said the master and slave servo were changed so hopefully it's not them again. Warranty will cover parts but it's a bloody pain in the .

Question-
Can I Put a normal solid clutch in when it has the dual clutch in it previously??????
 

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Have you checked the brake fluid level?

The fluid for the system comes from the top of the reservoir, and if the level dropps, it can stop your clutch working.

It sounds like this is the problem, not the clutch. Should only take 10mins to top up the fluid and bleed the system if you have the tools and a helper to press the clutch.

You will need.
11mm spanner (for bleed nipple)
Large adjustable spanner (to hole the bleed assembly for the clutch system while you loosen the bleed nipple)
Brake fluid
Empty clean jam jar
Length of clear pipe which fits tightly over the end of the bleed nipple.

To bleed the clutch You need to put the clear plastic pipe on the bleed nipple and submerge the other end int he jar with some brake fluid in it.
Top up the fluid reservoir higher than the max fill line as you will be bleeding the fluid through the system.
Then you need to get your helper to depress the clutch with the bleed nipple open, then close the nipple, then your helper needs to manually pull the clutch up sucking fluid from the reservoir into the system.
This process needs to be repeated until no more air bubbles come through the clear pipe with the fluid.
Dont forget to top up the fluid reservoir before the level dropps below the clutch system supply pipe or you will have to start again.
When no more bubbles come out with the fluid, your clutch is bled, but the pedal will sit on the floor.
Now you need to open the bleed nipple, get your helper to depress the clutch, make sure the clear pipe is still submerged in the jar of extra fluid and there are no air bubbles in the length just fluid, leave the nipple open while your helper manually raises the pedal then close the nipple. Now the newly bled master cylinder is primed and ready to use.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Good point. It was at the max fluid level. It is a possibility though. I'll have to check tomorrow now. Thanks for giving the low down on it. Much the same as bleeding brakes on a push bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Have you checked the brake fluid level?

The fluid for the system comes from the top of the reservoir, and if the level dropps, it can stop your clutch working.

It sounds like this is the problem, not the clutch. Should only take 10mins to top up the fluid and bleed the system if you have the tools and a helper to press the clutch.

You will need.
11mm spanner (for bleed nipple)
Large adjustable spanner (to hole the bleed assembly for the clutch system while you loosen the bleed nipple)
Brake fluid
Empty clean jam jar
Length of clear pipe which fits tightly over the end of the bleed nipple.

To bleed the clutch You need to put the clear plastic pipe on the bleed nipple and submerge the other end int he jar with some brake fluid in it.
Top up the fluid reservoir higher than the max fill line as you will be bleeding the fluid through the system.
Then you need to get your helper to depress the clutch with the bleed nipple open, then close the nipple, then your helper needs to manually pull the clutch up sucking fluid from the reservoir into the system.
This process needs to be repeated until no more air bubbles come through the clear pipe with the fluid.
Dont forget to top up the fluid reservoir before the level dropps below the clutch system supply pipe or you will have to start again.
When no more bubbles come out with the fluid, your clutch is bled, but the pedal will sit on the floor.
Now you need to open the bleed nipple, get your helper to depress the clutch, make sure the clear pipe is still submerged in the jar of extra fluid and there are no air bubbles in the length just fluid, leave the nipple open while your helper manually raises the pedal then close the nipple. Now the newly bled master cylinder is primed and ready to use.
Ok who's done this before an knows where the bleed nipples are on a 2.5 TDi 102bhp 1998??????????

An insight/discription would be mega helpful on this one.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks chippy. Drama unfolds slightly! No sign of brake fluid lose and no sign of black specs in the oil that would be the sign of a seal going. I have a horrible feeling it'll be something within the box area of the clutch. Something like the release spring system or something like that. Haven't bled it yet as I'm waiting for a friend of a friend to come tow it somewhere and for him to have a gander.

Can a solid/single clutch be put into replace a dual clutch system that's in my 2.5TDi? I don't need the weak legged, smooth pressure clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok well looks like I found a garage to assist me in sorting this all out. I have a feeling it'll be a new clutch installed though So, I'll say goodbye to a good £700 minimum on this one.
 

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There is a solid flywheel conversion available. Have a look on eurocarparts.co.uk to get an idea of cost
 

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Discussion Starter #14
No mate, It's definitely a clutch issue. As in, there is no clutch due to the fact it went pop!!!!!! hahaha. Looks like a complete clutch change. Will look at the possibility of a solid change over.
 
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