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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Was woundering if any1 could help me, and verify if my theory is correct. I've just finished doing the fuel screw adjustment, turbo acurator arm, blanked off egr, installed intercooler and boost valve. It is running when warm at 1100 rpm at idle. The tuning went well(or so I thought) more power, more torque,,, great! My problem is that it's now giving off a white/blue smoke and miss fireing a little when idling. My theory is I've turned the fuel screw up too much, am I right or is it something completely different? Any help would b appreciated
 

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Was woundering if any1 could help me, and verify if my theory is correct. I've just finished doing the fuel screw adjustment, turbo acurator arm, blanked off egr, installed intercooler and boost valve. It is running when warm at 1100 rpm at idle. The tuning went well(or so I thought) more power, more torque,,, great! My problem is that it's now giving off a white/blue smoke and miss fireing a little when idling. My theory is I've turned the fuel screw up too much, am I right or is it something completely different? Any help would b appreciated
white smoke is either unburned fuel,or water!! blue smoke is burning oil..
my first thought would be its not the fuel screw causing the problem. as if it was giving too much fuel, it would be giving Black smoke. Over fueling...
if the smokes blue/white, you might have upped the boost to much, and popped the head gasket.! and this would also give you the misfire at tick over..
is it pressurizing the cooling system?
 

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How much did you turn the fuel screw? What boost are you running? Have you fitted an adjustable boost valve?? You should get a little black smoke off boost. Ive done stacks and never had an issue but ive never fitted a boost valve, you really cant go any more than 14 psi, Much more you will get head gasket issues.
Normally boost is done on the actuator arm
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
How much did you turn the fuel screw? What boost are you running? Have you fitted an adjustable boost valve?? You should get a little black smoke off boost. Ive done stacks and never had an issue but ive never fitted a boost valve, you really cant go any more than 14 psi, Much more you will get head gasket issues.
Normally boost is done on the actuator arm
Sorry boost gauge I ment. I turned the fuel screw about 1/4 of turn so it was revving about 200rpm above normal and got the turbo boosting at 0.9 bar which is about 12, 13 psi. I done this mod before installing the intercooler and it was fine. I then put on the ic and boost dropped a little(which I knew was going to happen cause of less pressure) So I'm thinking cause I'm not boosting so much I'm burning excess fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
white smoke is either unburned fuel,or water!! blue smoke is burning oil..
my first thought would be its not the fuel screw causing the problem. as if it was giving too much fuel, it would be giving Black smoke. Over fueling...
if the smokes blue/white, you might have upped the boost to much, and popped the head gasket.! and this would also give you the misfire at tick over..
is it pressurizing the cooling system?
Sorry I'm bit new to this, what u mean preassurizing the cooling system?
 

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Was woundering if any1 could help me, and verify if my theory is correct. I've just finished doing the fuel screw adjustment, turbo acurator arm, blanked off egr, installed intercooler and boost valve. It is running when warm at 1100 rpm at idle. The tuning went well(or so I thought) more power, more torque,,, great! My problem is that it's now giving off a white/blue smoke and miss fireing a little when idling. My theory is I've turned the fuel screw up too much, am I right or is it something completely different? Any help would b appreciated

Too much fuel.

Make sure the van is fully warmed up.

Leave the boost where it is & reduce the fuel so the van feels gutless with a tickover of around 800 rpm then fuel it up in small amounts by trial & error. The problem with tuning the ABL is that you always try for a little more power ~ in reality you reach a point where all you get is more smoke, high tickover & terrible fuel economy.

You are looking to achieve the best stoichometric ratio (posh way of saying fuel to air) & when you get it right the little ABL is transformed. You'll probably be looking at a tickover around 1000 rpm when it's optimal.

A word of caution: the ABL has it's frailties ~ tuning it will bring about its sooner demise :ILU:
 

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I thought the ABL engine could be tuned to this stage without any stress on it.
One things for sure I would rather shorten its life than go back to its pre tuned state.:(
 

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Crank sprockets are a common fail and might just be a coincidence that mine failed after the LDA pump, intercooler and 15psi of boost were added. It was good while it lasted but sooner or later something will give. 1.9d engines have the same crank and don't fail purely becasue they are not under stress, tuning will add some stress to it for sure. If i was doing this again i would be making sure my crank sprocket was good and with no wear on the crank nose before tuning.
 

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sc vw customs 1.9tdi convert
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As jimmy says crank sprockets are the main problem

The td can be tuned abs handle it....but the weak point will always be the crank....tuning it only puts more on it in my opinion....

I pulled my td out at 180k with no signs of crank wobble at all....only head problems....but my van was never tuned and never driven hard in 6 years of me owing it...

Every person in Bristol i know of with a tuned 1.9td have all become a victim of the crank problem though...maybe not related...but certainly does not help...
 

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The td can be tuned abs handle it...

Every person in Bristol i know of with a tuned 1.9td have all become a victim of the crank problem though..
I:I:

Mine cracked the head & the crank nose failed @ 138k - you tune the ABL at your absolute risk, it's a soft engine & they're dropping like flies - to deny this is to compromise the truth.

It's a shame cos I loved my little ABL, it was far sweeter & a nicer drive than the 5 pot AJT that I drive now - the 2.5 TDI engine has its own set of problems :ILU:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Too much fuel.

Make sure the van is fully warmed up.

Leave the boost where it is & reduce the fuel so the van feels gutless with a tickover of around 800 rpm then fuel it up in small amounts by trial & error. The problem with tuning the ABL is that you always try for a little more power ~ in reality you reach a point where all you get is more smoke, high tickover & terrible fuel economy.

You are looking to achieve the best stoichometric ratio (posh way of saying fuel to air) & when you get it right the little ABL is transformed. You'll probably be looking at a tickover around 1000 rpm when it's optimal.

A word of caution: the ABL has it's frailties ~ tuning it will bring about its sooner demise :ILU:
Finally had time to turn down fuel so it is running at 1000rpm. It now doesn't smoke with cold start out but will still smoke if i put the cold start back in before the engine is at 90degrees. It's fine at this temp but any cooler and it still smokes. Do I need to turn the boost up?
 
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