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Viscous Coupling Service Mystery Solved

119K views 213 replies 57 participants last post by  BillfromBristol  
#1 · (Edited)
There have been a number of excellent posts on other forums regarding the workings and potential service of a viscous coupling but it seems that so far no one has touched one from a T4. The only option appears to be either, sending to Walter in Germany (makes an interesting telephone conversation!!) at Dorfbrunnen garage for £1K, buy a new viscous coupling £2.5k (yeah right) or remove the syncro capability (what’s the point in that). However, after much research it appears to me that the T4 coupling is just like any other and has the potential to be refilled and seals replaced. The question is, how do you remove the top? And to this end the mystery is now solved. I managed to acquire a split viscous coupling (long story!) that I have dissected with the view to being able to service the viscous coupling on my van. Below is the process I have come up with and used successfully to disassemble my unit.
On the cast iron side of the viscous coupling, remove the filler cap and most importantly bleed nipple. You will notice the bleed nipple is long and this provides a locking mechanism for the cap. The viscous coupling should not be under pressure but due to various reasons when the silicon has gone bad the pressure increases. So expect a bit of a mess.
Place viscous coupling in freezer. Aluminium contracts more than cast iron.
Unscrew the cast part of the coupling from the aluminium part. Now I have made a tool to unscrew the coupling as it is exceedingly tight because the seal for the coupling is on the other side of the thread and thus I think silicon must enter the thread and hinder the process of opening.
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Hey Presto! The viscous coupling is open. Now with a bit of silicone and a few seals you can be back on the 4x4 road ASAP.
I can supply all parts to service your VC yourself or I can do it for you, so send me a PM.
Option
1. Supply DIY service kit includes seals, laser cut tool to open, silicone ÂŁ130
2. Send me your VC to open and I will post back with a service kit for ÂŁ160
3. I undertake the full service for you ÂŁ350

I can also supply the correct grade silicone for ÂŁ30 per 500gm
The wear sleeve from the outside for ÂŁ45 (this is not available from VW and is a bespoke precision made item.

I also have a good spare VC that I may consider selling in exchange for one that needs servicing. this is a video of the general procedure
http://youtu.be/VqDiAS6l8mE

I am now recommending you add an anti wear additive to the silicone. This will provide a much more stable unit. If you read the entire post you will see it is likely that vw added anti wear agents to the VC originally, which is why they last 120k miles. After this mileage the silicone does degrade quickly. Without an anti wear agent I would change the silicone annually or after 20kmiles

I can supply the anti wear agent for ÂŁ35
 
#124 · (Edited)
Silderm is aimed at the cosmetic industry and I haven't been able to confirm the particle size or quality of that product. There is a patent on the use of polymethylsilsesquioxane in a VC and there might be infringement problems if we discuss too many details. See the first post for details of the anti wear agent I am using and how to purchase
 
#126 ·
Not as yet. Having mixed results with the additive as the amount to add seems to be quite critical. Too much and there is not enough friction. I need more guinea pigs to try different concentrations. But plain silicone seems to work and no one knows how long that will last on its own yet.
 
#127 ·
Hi,
Now I have opened my VC, cleaned the plates and I saw some markings on each plate. Did you put all the plates back with the sign in the same place? I checked and if put the plates with the marks in the same place all the holes and stripes will be in the same place alse everyting will be random.

Thank you,
Sebastian
 
#131 ·
Am I missing something? After cleaning I put everything back to check it. It seems that the plates have 1cm free play between them, so the distance between plates can be bigger or smaller during function. I have checked your pictures and in post 26 you have everything put back and I saw that you have piece that is missing from my VC. Is the one in the red circle. Is an add-on from you?
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I have made some pictures with all the parts. I am almost sure that the order is correct (at least this is the order they came out)

All the parts
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Start assembly
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Image

Image

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As you can see in the last picture the distance between plate can vary. Is this right?
 
#132 ·
I can't see any pictures. Where are they.
I don't add anything to the VC in terms of additional parts. There is a washer at the top and bottom of the plates if that is what you mean. The washer is held in place by the central shaft at each end. Are you sure it is not in the lid of the VC. It will be stuck in place with silicone and you just haven't noticed it. i have the correct grade silicone listed on eBay and it is not the link posted previously
 
#135 ·
I think there it should be a thicker washer (aprox 1 centimeter) with some grooves in order to be fixed on the shaft. The washer in the first picture is too thin.
If I put a washer like that there the plates would move on the shaft on the free space seen in the last picture. A thin washer will not stop the plates moving on the shaft.
Am I right?

I have other broken VC which I will want to fix it, but for the moment it is not in my possession in order to open it an give it a better look.
 
#137 · (Edited)
There is no other part. The gap is normal. If I took a picture of mine at the same angle you would see it is identical to yours. I have serviced over ten now and they all look exactly like yours with the same gap. Your VC looks good to go back together. Stop worrying, shove the silicone in and get the thing back on the road. Then pat yourself on the back after a job well done.
 
#145 ·
Job done! I am really pleased with this work. I cannot wait to fit the serviced VC on the car and check if it is working properly.

Now I have opened the second VC and surprise ... there are 2 plates with 1 bend "finger". Why are they bending? The oil smell very bad (not like the first one). Let's say ... a bent "finger" will not affect the VC performance but I had other strange finding. 2 plates with "fingers" did not had anymore the right edge on the inside, turning on the central shaft. It seems that those 2 plates ware turning with the other set of plates (somehow glued) . Why? Old oil? Really strange.
 
#146 ·
Yes that is what happens if you don't change the silicone in time. The silicone goes bad and the VC starts to lock up in places. This bends the fingers. The next phase is for heat and pressure to build before the VC goes pop and bursts the casing. Provided the plates are still flat you may be able to change the order refill and get some life out of it.

Useful if you could post some pictures
 
#147 ·
Below you can see 3 fingered plates.
1. is destroyed on the inside
2. has bent finger
3. is fint
4. there is no 4th disck :p in picture
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I will not try to repair the second disc since I suppose it will not affect the performance
But the first one will need to be replaced if I will find one.


Below there are more pictures with bad and good discs. I think the bad disc was somehow glued/stuck with the other set of discs and rotating with them destroyed the inner side.
Image
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Image
Image
 
#154 ·
Yes good find, sums up the process really well. The only difference is that I put the disks in slowly allowing the silicone to totally cover before putting the next in and I would do the final top up now with the lid off as the full amount of silicone will fit without the need for a grease gun.

The VC that was serviced in the vid was not very old judging by the consistancy of the old silicone and the good condition of the disks. The older they are, the harder they are to open.
 
#155 ·
Hello

I fixed the CV and try my T4 on a bad snow road.
It recovered his strengh and i could stop and start it in bad situation.A:
With the lock diff,we see rear wheels spitting snow!!!!
I put 290 gr of marmelade: D inside the CV maximun level of the carter.I didn't added after the closure.
To close the CV and put the screw,it was a little bit difficult.10 degrees were missing.: Eek:
It was resolved with a thin touch in the border,about 0.10 milimeters of the aluminium carter.It was distorted and more hight outside than inside.
I made the tool with an old brake disc of Land Rover.Râpe:
I also changed the back differential bearing,it's a beautiful méchanicT:
Thank Ianjenn to you help.
 
#157 ·
Just coming back to this thread AND back to my Syncro conversion after over a year away from it! I've been driving the T4 in FWD and now living in Iceland and would really like the Syncro ability now! ;-) I plan to rebuild the VC in the next few weeks. I see updates on anti-wear agent, and this wasn't apparent when I purchased the VC rebuild kit from you Alex. Have you any further updates on it?