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Discussion Starter #1
What are the pros and cons of using a mounting frame for a waeco fridge?

If one is not used, how is the fridge secured in place and what space is required around it?

Cheers!
 

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I never bothered to fix mine. It's never moved even with my driving LOL:
If you allow a 5mm gap all round it won't go anywhere.
Make sure you leave an air gap at the back of the worktop, also a vent in the end panel of the units (behind the drivers seat) is not a bad idea as the fridge can get quite hot when the compressor is running. :ILU:
 

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There are white cover caps inside the fridge on both sides that you can remove,screw through with short screws and replace.
The frames look nice,but I think they are about £40 and to be honest you could do what I did and make your own trim out of a bit of aluminium angle :*
Mine used to move about a bit before I fixed it properly I:
 

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HORACE
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Mine has a bracket on the top to stop it rocking (its a CR-40 so no side fixings but sits in more flush than the CR-50) and I made the surround from aluminium angle brought at Wickes T:

More pics etc in my build thread T:
 

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I recently ordered the standard fitting kit for a cr50, when the delivery showed up it was actually the more expensive flush mounting kit, bonus. Having an older model fridge I still had to redrill the mounting holes to get a snug fit.
I only went down the mounting frame route just because my fridge is right behind the driver's seat and i really didn't fancy it moving in the slightest. Also, does mean if I need to pull the fridge out for any reason its just a few easily accessible screws in the front rather than having to pull cupboards apart in order to get at the mounting screws on the side.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What ventilation above and behind is required for the heat exchanger on the back of the fridge to work efficiently and safely?

With the flush fit mounting frame, does the fridge still sit on the floor of the cabinet - as I guess the frame only supports the front face/edges?

What keeps the back 'still'?
 

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Can't really comment on the gap back and top I'm afraid. I haven't backed the fridge onto the side wall like most, mine backs on to the driver's seat and the compressor is out in the open.

yer, fitting kit bolts to the front with no rear support other than the weight of the fridge itself. I've put a couple of steel brackets behind the fridge itself just in case the cupboard and frame snaps or the screws get ripped out of the cupboard... doubtful i know.

anyway, if it's of any use though here's a pic of the flush mount kit from underneath...
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fridge then sits on the cupboard floor and frame bolts to the front of the cupboard floor (in my case an mdf facia surround then the floor)
 

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What ventilation above and behind is required for the heat exchanger on the back of the fridge to work efficiently and safely?

With the flush fit mounting frame, does the fridge still sit on the floor of the cabinet - as I guess the frame only supports the front face/edges?

What keeps the back 'still'?

I put a computer fan in the top side of the cabinet facing toward the drivers seat. It's switched to come on with the fridge and uses very little power. I also left a gap under the fridge at the front so cold air is drawn in to replace the warm air coming out.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks people.

I know it's expensive, but I think I might invest in the flush fit frame - looks very professional and neat.

Does the frame extend beyond the depth of the rubber feet, or dead level with them?
 
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