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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi
I am in the process of cloning a X reg 1.9 td abl with blown turbo back into somthing that goes! my parts are coming from 2 donor vans from 98
I have one issue left that my head wont go round now we have cold weather
The van is taking ages to start it needs two shots on the heaters and the cold start on ,it then sits at 1000rpm
when i push in the cold start she idles at 950rpm.
Now my problem is She shows no temperature once warmed up,I replaced sensor but still no temp on the guage.
With heater on inside running at 1500 rpm ive got hot air At idle speed ive got cool air
When i take the lid off the reservoir bottel should i have running water out of the expansion hose into the bottle?
If i dont have do i have a water pump problem?
All advice greatfully accepted.
Regards
Will
 

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Is the belt running the right way? under the water pump?
Is there a thermostat in it?
Re cold starting 2 goes on the plugs is ok....not ideal but ok
Advance lever should not need pulling out if timing is spot on as it's not a choke device it's a pump advance and should only be "required" in really low as in -15 and below temperatures
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Will check out tomorrow and get back
There is a bit of asqueel when she starts up but I put that to damp on the beLt
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Is the belt running the right way? under the water pump?
Is there a thermostat in it?
Re cold starting 2 goes on the plugs is ok....not ideal but ok
Advance lever should not need pulling out if timing is spot on as it's not a choke device it's a pump advance and should only be "required" in really low as in -15 and below temperatures
Hi belts running correct way
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
are you sure its not the temp gauge itself that isnt working








hi

the van was put off the road by the cops due to a blown turbo it was given to me 6 months later in a semi stripped state so i started at the turbo and am working my way out of the engine bay
To answer your reply no i havent pulled out the clocks. Is there a quick way to test the dial? without pulling things apart
 

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yes
the early t4s had a problem with the V regulator (reducer really) in the dash board. usually a bad connection there will give low to no readings on the temp gage and no reading from the fuel gage. If your fuel gage is not registering as well you now where to go. BTW a new V reg is cheap, but it is a little bit of a fiddle to change, and I had one fail again after 2 days!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
yes
the early t4s had a problem with the V regulator (reducer really) in the dash board. usually a bad connection there will give low to no readings on the temp gage and no reading from the fuel gage. If your fuel gage is not registering as well you now where to go. BTW a new V reg is cheap, but it is a little bit of a fiddle to change, and I had one fail again after 2 days!
Right connected up the vag
It say's open circuit at G2(sender)+side 30-10 intermittent fault on the plus side of G2 with possible short01039 at G2
So getting that all into my head .I need to follow the plus side of the sender back to find the fault
Both donors have twin senders at the block while the clone only has one is this correct/
All fuses are intact and all other gauges are working
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Problem solved
The 4 pin plug at 62 was hiding behind the new pipe i made so plugged it in and bobs your anti!!!!!
I guess more than the pipe was a tube LOL*<:)>
 
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