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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All, hope someone can help. I have a 2008 transporter / shuttle 2.5 diesel.
I had what was diagnosed as a failed oil cooler. Had oil
I’m the water header tank. But all was running well. No water in the oil.
changed Oil cooler, and while there did the thermostat and glow plugs etc.
Since this was done, granted the water hasn’t been too clean and I did expect that. But it appears to lose some water when used. Somethings 500ml sometimes as much as 750ml to a litre. I’ve added KSeal but to no avail and now the water is looking somewhat black now. But the oil level hasn’t dropped at all. I’m at a loss as what to do next. All positive advance appreciated.
 

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If you've changed bits of the cooling system they might not have resealed properly - so check everywhere for visible signs of leakage. The coolant can drop for the first few hundred miles as trapped air gets expelled, but will stabilise.

If the coolant is filthy you need to drop it, clean and flush and replace. By all accounts get rid of the K-seal ASAP.!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If you've changed bits of the cooling system they might not have resealed properly - so check everywhere for visible signs of leakage. The coolant can drop for the first few hundred miles as trapped air gets expelled, but will stabilise.

If the coolant is filthy you need to drop it, clean and flush and replace. By all accounts get rid of the K-seal ASAP.!!
I have dropped water a dozen times so far. But I will drop again this weekend if you think the K Seal is a bad move.
 

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as in fresh coolant is still turning black..? In which case you must have an oil to coolant leak, which is head gasket, water pump or i guess oil cooler. HG on 2.5 uncommon compared to the 1.9
 

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Any update Dave? I'm exactly with Plateletboy so far so I didn't bother to add anything.

There is a gasket and a couple of O-rings that need changing with the oil cooler. They don't usually come with an aftermarket oil cooler so perhaps someone re-used the old ones and they are leaking? As Plateletboy says, it depends on the amount of coolant contamination you have now. It is hard to get rid of oil in water so oil will keep turning up for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Any update Dave? I'm exactly with Plateletboy so far so I didn't bother to add anything.

There is a gasket and a couple of O-rings that need changing with the oil cooler. They don't usually come with an aftermarket oil cooler so perhaps someone re-used the old ones and they are leaking? As Plateletboy says, it depends on the amount of coolant contamination you have now. It is hard to get rid of oil in water so oil will keep turning up for a while.
It is looking more like left over oil in the system. I have resorted to using a large syringe type tool to suck it off the top. It looks worse than it is. The rest of the coolant is fine. It appears to have stopped dropping in level now so that’s all good. Only odd thing now is I have great heat in the cab. (Never before) but still have no heat in rear heating system. Are these Independant to the main heater matrix as this was a shuttle (ie mini bus) thanks in advance. Keeping fingers crossed all going in the right direction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Oh… yes new o rings were ordered with the new cooler. The only gasket is the one from the oil filter base to the block. That wasn’t disturbed. So I believe it was just the oil cooler and the o rings.
 

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It's quite a long process if the oil contamination is heavy. It needs some kind of degreaser because otherwise it's like trying to wash oil off your hands with water only. There are chemicals you can buy for the job but I never found them much good. I once used a capful of clothes washing liquid in an old banger! Along with many coolant changes using just plain water it eventually improved enough to replace the antifreeze. You might have to drive it around a bit so the engine gets up to its full temp.

Can't help much with the rear heater , it is just an extension of the cooling system and I believe the electric auxiliary coolant pump may be switched on as part of the system. If you look at the diagram of the cooling system online https://vwpress.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/ssp-305-e.pdf (Page 18) you can see the way the coolant circuit works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It's quite a long process if the oil contamination is heavy. It needs some kind of degreaser because otherwise it's like trying to wash oil off your hands with water only. There are chemicals you can buy for the job but I never found them much good. I once used a capful of clothes washing liquid in an old banger! Along with many coolant changes using just plain water it eventually improved enough to replace the antifreeze. You might have to drive it around a bit so the engine gets up to its full temp.

Can't help much with the rear heater , it is just an extension of the cooling system and I believe the electric auxiliary coolant pump may be switched on as part of the system. If you look at the diagram of the cooling system online https://vwpress.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/ssp-305-e.pdf (Page 18) you can see the way the coolant circuit works.
Thank you for the link. I will take a look. Only asked as I have seen a small exhaust under the bus on the near side and wondered if it had an independent heater system.
 

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Yes that will be an additional diesel powered heater probably an eberspacher if it is original. I've never had a had one but there is plenty of good knowledge here about the use of them. There are different versions, some will start up depending on air temperature (below 10 degrees) I remember.
 
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