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wheel arch water tank fittings

11K views 12 replies 6 participants last post by  tunafish 
#1 · (Edited)
I contacted CAK tanks for the 42L wheel arch water tank model: CAK-206MC
They asked me for the drawing for the fittings so I came up with this:

RED: ø40mm water fill (I think I can use the opening in the bodywork where the sliding door motor houses)
GREEN: ø10mm to water pump
VOILET: ø12mm breather pipe
YELLOW: inspection hatch (I think a drain is not necessary because I could completely empty the tank with a sponge)

Just asking for a thumbs up, cheers

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#4 · (Edited)
I simplified some things.

Why have an ugly fill point outside with a hole in the body and water infiltration problems ect?
The inspection hatch on top should be better and could be used for filling from the inside.
Just lift the mattress and fill from one of those 20L portable and foldable containers.

I measured the dimensions from a Shurflo TrialKing and it looks like it should fit behind the tank together with a strainer and even the accumulator and expansion valve. That way the lost space behind the tank is used for maintenance.

Question. Is the breather pipe really necessary?


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#5 ·
In my experience, the advantage of having a drain is that if it's easy to use you are likely to use it every time you have finished using the van - if you need to remove an inspection hatch and sponge out the remaining amount you will probably be less inclined to do it. The converters of mine put a length of hose (which when not in use points upward behind the end panel of the unit) on the drain outlet, so all you have to do is drop the hose out of the back door, open the valve on the end and the water drains away.

I agree that it's better not to have to cut a hole in the side of the van for the filler. An alternative would be to put a filler point inside on the rear panel of the unit, so it's accessible just inside the rear door. The disadvantage of fill points inside is that it's not always easy to find a filling contain that does not leak a little bit while you're filling - it's better to have that leak outside than inside, all over the worktop!
 
#6 ·
Thank you for your thoughts!

Good point about the drain, but now that I think about it.. unless the drain tap is installed on the underside of the tank so facing down, there will always be a minimum of water left in the tank right? Does this need to be sponged out?
If not an idea could be to install a 3 way valve right after the fitting so you can switch OFF / DRAIN / PUMP
What ya say?

For filling I think I will be ok. I will seal the worktop opening so water should stay in that circle.
I work on boats and manage to fill fuel from jerrycans without spilling a drop on the teak decks.
The technique is to have the fill container placed higher than the tank to fill, with a tube running down.
Than blow inside the opening of the container around the tube and the water will be siphoning without air bubbles.
Kinda like #3 here but without the blow tube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LYjdwvy8MY

For the van I was thinking a small pulley to pull up and hang the fill container from the top fittings of my high roof barn doors, I have already a padeye installed.
So a bit like the Brandup marketing image but than inside the van. Even my girlfriend should be able to do this alone without making a mess, should get a 10L container than instead of 20L

 
#7 ·
Agreed on both points - yes, the drain point is in the end of the tank, as low as it can go, but it does leave a small amount of water behind - I'm not especially worried about germs or hygiene, so I just leave it there! I haven't been killed by the bugs yet...

The 3-way valve sounds a good idea if you can fit the valve, the pipe to the pump and the pipe outside as a drain into the space available. I don't think I could with my layout but you may have more space.

I do almost exactly what you suggest in terms of a filler with a short length of pipe - though I don't use a Brandrup product as they are waaay too expensive! Many motorhomers seem to use a garden watering can instead, but I could not spare the space for that - I have to have a water carrier that folds down.
 
#9 ·
I have made up my own remote filling pipe/container: It uses brass hoselock type fittings,clear water hose and a plastic camping water container. Easy enough to do and works a treat to fill my awkward to get at container straped in a cupboard.

Much like the expensive one pictured with the young lady but mine owes me less than £15 all in. T:
 
#11 ·
I found my own SketchUps today on Pinterest but the images where gone.
So I uploaded them again 😀

Now 4 years later I want to pick up my own question about the fill up with some bonus tricks.
3 Years ago when I was building in the tank and before drilling a fill hole (like in the California) I tried various things filling the tank with jerry cans inside the van with gravity and it was a mess with water spilling ecc. Than I got the idea, why not use the water pump to SUCK in the water in the tank.
Some more rethinking and I finally got it!

Here a straighforward guide on how to fill the tank in 2 different ways and how to use water in 3 different ways.
I actually never used the "city water hookup" but I know it works perfect because it is what we use on boats, to fill but also to have a direct pressure setup.
Lately I got an extra removable water container that I use when I need LOTSA water, like in number #4

Hope this helps someone, maybe later I will post some pictures of my pump setup.

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#12 · (Edited)
Here some photo's I made today after a windsurf session, you can see the manifold in front of the water pump.
The transparent feed line under the filter has a brass quick release garden hose connection that I use with a rigid piece of pipe inserted in a jerrycan I use for filling.
I position this just on the ground under the rear bumper, like you can see in the photo's. Pretty good privacy wise, I keep the right barn door just enough open to pass the feed line.
The quick release fitting can also plugged in into a big removable container.

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#13 ·
btw As for the tank, you don't need a drain or big filler holes, just a feeder and a vent. That's how we do it on boats.

I had my tank custom build by a plastic welder who does swimming pools etc. payed about 200€, completely custom.
The CAK wheel arch tank CAK-206FIKB is 42 Liters, I used the same dimensions but made the top part longer and without an arch design. I got about 55 Liters

If I would do it again I would have put the feed connection on the top with a rigid tube going down in the tank. The fittings (both feeder and vent) could be fitted in the inspection hatch.
The main advantage is that you eliminate the risk of a leak and emptying the complete volume inside the van, no good.
The advantage with the feed connection at the lowest part of the tank is that you can use it as a drain.
Never used any drain function though, just pump out all the water, done.

The vent right now I have it going up to the roof, when I fill the tank with the water pump, water shoots from the vent when it's 100% full.
I want to make a whole in the floor, about under the pump and than the breather line that comes down again like a siphon and shoots under than van.

I clean the tank once a year from the inspection hatch.
Once in a while I use a bit of household bleach to disinfect especially in the summer.

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