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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, I'm wiring up an amp to be located somewhere behind the driver seat and front of my rock and roll bed , what's the best route for the battery cable that powers the amp? Any advice or a how to guide would be greatly appreciated.:)
 

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I would run it up to the roof cavity and then down the near side A pillar and through the grommet by the battery. Don't cut the grommet, remove the tape from the neck and then spray some WD40 inside to lubricate and pass cable through. Re tape neck when finished.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Cheers for that info, I don't suppose you could help out with something else? I can't find a ground point on my van, will this prevent power up? I've tried everywhere but the amp still won't power up:* the amp is all hooked up as the instructions state in the manual. Is there any way of testing the amp to check that it's not faulty? Sorry to sound dumb but I ain't got a clue about electrics:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Cheers mate, I've tried all the seat bolts still can't get a ground connection:( starting to worry about the amp now, bought it 2nd hand, although it is in good condition.
 

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Have you cleaned up the point where you are trying to earth to I.e removed any paint with a little bit of sand paper as the earth is importand and needs to be a good connection. If you are still in doubt run a temporary earth direct from the battery just to see if the amp powers up
 

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Have you wired the remote cable to the head unit from the amp?.

The head unit sends a signal down this to the amp each time its turned on/off.

Checked the fuses on the amp?.

A good old fashioned wire coat hanger is helpful in pulling wires too.

You can earth anywhere on the body if you rub back to bare metal. Vaseline will help conduct the current too amongst other things.

I:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Do you mean run a temporary cable from the neg terminal on the battery to the ground terminal on the amp? If that won't power it up does that indicate its broke? I didn't sand off any paint but I put the ground wire on to bare metal where I removed the half bulkhead. I've read somewhere that there is a ground point beneath the driver seat, I might remove the seat and try there as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Have you wired the remote cable to the head unit from the amp?.

The head unit sends a signal down this to the amp each time its turned on/off.

Checked the fuses on the amp?.

A good old fashioned wire coat hanger is helpful in pulling wires too.

You can earth anywhere on the body if you rub back to bare metal. Vaseline will help conduct the current too amongst other things.

I:
The little blue wire on the head unit labelled p-cont? Yes.
Fuse checked and ok.
Thanks for all the adviceT:
 

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That's the pup!

That wire should go to the remote location on the amp.
 

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I just ground where is close and neat to what your earthing.

The better the connection the better! (didn't go to school much, was in the woods with the girls!).
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The little blue wire on the head unit labelled p-cont? Yes.
Fuse checked and ok.
Thanks for all the adviceT:
I've tried all suggestions but amp still not working, even tried a different amp still no joy. Could there be a problem with the p.cont wire? How can I check that?
 

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Start with the fuses. Check the potentiometers on the amp aren't all the way down.

Get a multimeter on the job mate, switch to ohms and check if there's any resistance between amp negative and van chassis, this should be as close to zero as possible if the amp is earthed.
Check if the HU remote wire is outputting a voltage, check this at the back of the head unit, then connect it up and check it at the remote input at the amp.
Failing that you could use a very small wire to jump from the 12V input into the remote bit. Check the manual before doing this though as I don't want you blowing anything up. T:

This should give you a better idea of the state of the amp
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Start with the fuses. Check the potentiometers on the amp aren't all the way down.

Get a multimeter on the job mate, switch to ohms and check if there's any resistance between amp negative and van chassis, this should be as close to zero as possible if the amp is earthed.
Check if the HU remote wire is outputting a voltage, check this at the back of the head unit, then connect it up and check it at the remote input at the amp.
Failing that you could use a very small wire to jump from the 12V input into the remote bit. Check the manual before doing this though as I don't want you blowing anything up. T:

This should give you a better idea of the state of the amp
Hi mate, tried all that, what should the output read for the remote wire?
 

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You didn't say if your amp is showing as earthed on the multimeter.

My Fli loaded 800 manual says to ensure the Earth cable is the same gauge cable as the 12V supply (Fused feed from Battery), is yours?

My manual says that my amp is looking for 12V in the remote port, as I said previously you an spur this out of the +ve feed, but don't leave it on or will flatten battery, but as a quick test it should show you if the amp is going to work. If you are to keep this wire, make sure you fit an inline switch and don't forget to turn it off when exiting wehicle or you'll hammer your battery.

Have you got 7-12V on the remote wire?

Have you got battery voltage on the +ve terminal of the amp?

My Amp has a protection LED, does yours? If illuminated, this could indicative of a short elsewhere, ie one of the speaker wire on the vehicle chassis or against another speaker wire

Check Amp isn't over heating, could have a safety shut off.

Remove all the speaker wires and shut the Amp down for a while, then start again once powered up.

Check the minimum speaker impedence for the amp is correct.



:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hello mate, thanks for all the advice, i've followed your advice, eventually got the amp powered up, I'm not certain but it seemed to power on when the phono leads were connected and then the source from the head unit was switched out of standby. Although I had it working for about an hour it then got very hot and the protection light still comes on,I removed wires and left it overnight, I then tried it again in the morning the light briefly lights up green but then protection light comes on again.. Any suggestions? Or shall I take it back to the shop?
 

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Alright mate? Glad we finally got the unit powered up.

Did you check all speaker wiring for a short circuit, should be fairly easy, just continuity test the two wire ends (disconnected at the amp inputs) or at the crossover (If you're using them, again disconnected).

I can only think that there's a short causing the protection to kick in. If these all prove to be closed, ie not shorting, then I'd pop back to the shop and seek advice or a replacement Amp and try again :*
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Hi again mate, the protection kicks in without any speaker cable wired in to the amp, so assume I can rule out that problem. End of line amp as well, last one in the shop display model, so probably get offered a refund unless they offer me a newer model for same money.
 

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If it only powers up with the phono leads connected that suggests to me that you have an earth problem and the amp is earthing via the phono leads through the head unit.
 
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