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HOW TO - Turbo your 2.4D!

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2.4d turbo conversion
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116K views 86 replies 47 participants last post by  K88CBH  
#1 · (Edited)
Well here goes, ill try and document as much info as i can on my conversion.....
Here's what we started with...
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I started to gather the bits..
Turbo and manifold off 2.5TDI ACV
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EGR blank fitted
Inlet manifold off 2.5TDI ACV
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Dipstick tube off 2.5TDI ACV
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oil feed and return pipes off 2.5TDI ACV
Oil filter housing, i actually used my exsisting housind and just removed the blanking plug.
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Gaskets
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Ignore the rocker box gasket, only needed inlet and exhaust gaskets...

Then we started...
up onto the ramps...
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Front panel off and radiator into service mode...
i removed the exhaust for ease of access...
have fun with these lol
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I checked my throttle cable first for play...
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i pulled back the cable to remove the slack lol
just pull off the clip and move it forward against the stop..
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Inlet manifold off....GoGo Gadget arms are ideal for this job, as would some cartoon eyeballs so you could stick em round the back to see..
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This made access to the exhaust manifold easy...
Next was to remove the dipstick tube to fit the replacement ACV one with oil return..
This was the worst part took 3hrs to get this bugger out....
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I ended up removing the oil filter and cooler out the way to get at it...
New tube in place..
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I was lucky in the fact alls i needed to do was remove the blanking plug from the housing inorder to fit oil feed pipe...
Then literally, bolted up the manifold and turbo...
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Then came the inlet manifold..Socket Drive Allen keys ideal for this....
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As you can see i fitted the inlet stub off the aab manifold as a temporary fix..
I opted to make a new inlet stub...
Some 1/4 plate and 2" pipe cut at 45 DEG angle..
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All welded up and tapped into for boost gauge feed...
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I went for a 1Bar gauge as its no race car lol..
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135deg 51mm hose and about 3" of 51mm hose to connect up boost and some flexible ducting for air intake...
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When all was plumbed in and running it was only showing .15 bar, i have to wind the adjustment up on the actuator arm a fair bit by removing the retaining clip backing off the top nut a few threads then locking it up again with the bottom nut and increased the max fuel screw in the region of half turn after you have removed the tamperproof crimp, back off the 13mm lock nut turn fuel screw CW for more fuel....
Over the course of the weekend, mixed in with work and a trip to A&E spent around 12 hrs doing the job start to finish....

Now its running some observations....
temp on normal driving was marginally higher than 1/2, sat at 80MPH it creeps up to 3/4, economy around the same 30/35 mpg...
Opted to modify the plastic air duct on the bonnet and refit as it chaffed the boost hose, and have also removed the 'wax' switch that operates the fan blinds and set them open which has reduced overall temp...
As a short term fix i have also added some wire wool to the rocker breather to reduce the oil residue blown out of the pipe....
Thanks to whooshwhoosh for his assistance, 4motion for the parts and JonT4 for the advice.....
 
#2 ·
Re: 2.4D Turbo Project

Excellent pictures and explanation!A:

So in all what would this cost inc labour do you reckon?

I fancy having mine done but at the mo the vans a workhorse and has to run 100%.
If I get another van and convert the old bus to a camper I wouldn't mind giving this a go!T:
 
#4 ·
Re: 2.4D Turbo Project

Parts wise, all in stands me at £300, thats turbo, gaskets, hoses and boost gauge...not sure what a garage would charge to do it, but mine is daily driver too, i started mine friday afternoon, had to work sat/sun morning so used wifes car for that and just cracked on when i got in, if i had worked later of evening could have sorted it by saturday night....
 
#6 ·
Re: 2.4D Turbo Project

Renamed and moved to Technical Articles T:T:T: IMHO You might need to spell out things a bit better on the turbo adjustment side and perhaps give a guide to the max boost you can set it at, just so others know how to do the finer points not just the spannering part.
 
#12 ·
Re: 2.4D Turbo Project

JIMMYJAMES said:
Renamed and moved to Technical Articles T:T:T: IMHO You might need to spell out things a bit better on the turbo adjustment side and perhaps give a guide to the max boost you can set it at, just so others know how to do the finer points not just the spannering part.
Click to expand...
I do not think much withstand without LDA. LDA is changeable, or add fuel pump.internal state of the engine overheats badly
 
#13 ·
gonna miss hurtling past u uphill:D
toolwise,allenkey sockets were a big help,used these round back of manifold.the 135 degree bend for inlet needs to be longer on one side too,so a length o straight pipe n connector needed too.
a boost gauge also a must,or u have no idea if things working as they should.
top job pal!A:
 
#14 ·
Just wanna say looks like a good guide good tune, and you made it sound easy?! I wanna do it!
Cos of noobs (me) could you list pn's u used, or maybe rough part name what it was recycled from? Ie the turbo you got, ie the ones we could use for this job etc T:

Performance wise, hows it goin? Whats the noticeable difference? Do you have a rev counter, has this given a clue on whats goin on, ie whens it kickin in etc, and economy, hows it goin? Think them answers may just force me to try it! A:
 
#16 ·
Engine temperature is only marginally higher, talking the width of the needle....no noticeable smoke on idle or boost, my tweeking is over until i get the intercooler fitted then look at the LDA for the pump..got a little oil mist from rockercover breather as its currently venting to air now, just need to re-pipe it away from engine, JonT4 has a catchtank fitted as an option...
Cant comment on economy as im currently having fun watching the boost gauge A: lol, but it gets its first big run in a few hours to Nant Col.....
 
S
#17 ·
here are the specific part numbers but you can get everything second hand from a 2.5acv engined van

firstly you need a acv turbo and manifolds defiantly second hand or reconditioned, prohibitively expensive new
if you cannot get the rest of the parts second hand you will then need

dipstick tube :-074115630N
dipstick gasket :-035145757C
oil feed pipe :-074145771C
upper oil pipe seals x2 :-N0138123
top nut for oil pipe :-N0110691
banjo bolt :-1J0422269B may be alternative?
lower oil feed seals x2 :- N138487
oil drain pipe :- 074145735
turbo to pipe gasket :-046145757A
turbo to pipe bolts x2 :- N90129001
intake gasket :-074129717
exhaust gasket x5 :-028129589B

if you are doing the head gasket at the same time

part numbers are
Head gasket thickest steel available :-074103383P
Head bolts :- 068103384A
you will also need a pulley stretch bolt (3 different types so you will need to get the right one) as you will need to remove the cam belt to do the head gasket


regards alex
 
#20 ·
hi all , im just in the middle of doing my turbo convertion (finally)
all stripped down , dip stick in and oil return pipe in ,now my question is which plug on the oil cooler stand do you use as there is three , 2x 8mm allen and one in the middle (which in my case has an oil pressure gauge in )
ive tried the plug nearest the block and the hole is too big for the oil feed bolt ?
please any help would be great as i use my van most days :*

cheers
in advance
matty
 
D
#24 ·
Great job and thanks for the detailed pics. Funny I seached and finally justed posted a "looking for" thread and only then found your 2.4 Turbo thread after, on exactly that question! My 94 2.4 Diesel seems perfect for the turbo.
Questions:
1/Is there a techincal reason why the 2.5L Intake mainfold is better? apart from proximity to the rear mounted Turbos outlet?
2/ Why no intercooler? My thought was by plumbing the Turbo's Outlet downwards to a grill mounted intercooler like those used on Volvos (infront of the Radiator) which exits the cooled air out on the upper passenger side which would then be close to the stock 2.4L diesel intake manifolds intake port..a intercooled system could be created using the stock Intake manifold? Thoughts?
3/ You have preset the boost at a particular setting, but did you consider a manual wastegate control, like those used on aircraft, with a push pull control cable in the cockpit? As mountain driving situations with an altitude increase can really lower performance as the ambient airpressure decreases (especially at higher temperatures) so a manual boost allows you to "normalize airpressures" to sea level equilvalents +plus what ever extra boost you elect to add at your own descretion.. watching the pressure guage.
3/ What about changes in injector sizes or types, to accommodate the turbo? Was anything needed or tried there?
4/ I didnt see any comments about the change in performance? Was it noticeable and how would you summarize the improvement? Worth doing?
5/ One last note and suggestion about control of the wastegate - adding an EGT exhaust gas temperature sensor and guage is a great tool for monitoring the engines heating, overheating and fuel burn situation.

Hope thats not too many questions! Looking forward to your reply
Cheers :ILU:
Dirk from Ontario Canada
 
#31 ·
DirknCanada said:
Great job and thanks for the detailed pics. Funny I seached and finally justed posted a "looking for" thread and only then found your 2.4 Turbo thread after, on exactly that question! My 94 2.4 Diesel seems perfect for the turbo.
Questions:
1/Is there a techincal reason why the 2.5L Intake mainfold is better? apart from proximity to the rear mounted Turbos outlet?
Using the 2.5 is tried and tested and anything is better than the bunch of bananas currently in there lol
2/ Why no intercooler? My thought was by plumbing the Turbo's Outlet downwards to a grill mounted intercooler like those used on Volvos (infront of the Radiator) which exits the cooled air out on the upper passenger side which would then be close to the stock 2.4L diesel intake manifolds intake port..a intercooled system could be created using the stock Intake manifold? Thoughts?
I have an intercooler just not fitted yet, people run higher spec engines without so dont think its an issue
3/ You have preset the boost at a particular setting, but did you consider a manual wastegate control, like those used on aircraft, with a push pull control cable in the cockpit? As mountain driving situations with an altitude increase can really lower performance as the ambient airpressure decreases (especially at higher temperatures) so a manual boost allows you to "normalize airpressures" to sea level equilvalents +plus what ever extra boost you elect to add at your own descretion.. watching the pressure guage.
Altitude driving isnt an issue for me in the uk, so presetting the boost wasnt an issue, ill tweak it up more once i have the fuelling better
3/ What about changes in injector sizes or types, to accommodate the turbo? Was anything needed or tried there?
Personnaly never tried any different injectors, there seems to be very little information on this
4/ I didnt see any comments about the change in performance? Was it noticeable and how would you summarize the improvement? Worth doing?
i never had any actually data of before and after only that it 'drives' better and well worth the money doing it, people will spend far more on 'Bling' than something as practical as this..
5/ One last note and suggestion about control of the wastegate - adding an EGT exhaust gas temperature sensor and guage is a great tool for monitoring the engines heating, overheating and fuel burn situation.

Hope thats not too many questions! Looking forward to your reply
Cheers :ILU:
Dirk from Ontario Canada
Click to expand...
Hopefully that answers a few questions Dirk.....
I am far from an expert in Diesel tunning in fact apart from plugging in a unit on my old vectra i have never messed with a Diesel before, what i am trying to do is document everything i find or do so that it may help others....
Next on the list is to get a used pump and set of injectors and play with those...Hopefully a 'How to ' on the fitting of an LDA to pump, and im going to strip the pump down first and have a play with a set of injectors too...
As the vehicle is the only one i have access to and is a daily driver it needs to be on the road, so all jobs are weekend only or the holiday periods.....

Soon to have yet another convert as Moodyblue has just secured the parts needed go 'TURBO'......
 
D
#25 ·
Interesting to note, from here in Canada, the right hand drive differences. Such as placement of the brake boost system, which on my Canadian model t4 is on the opposite side of the firewall. Yet the Coolent tank is on the same side as yours... So I wonder if the exhaust manifolds are completely different or not? I'll find out and post it FYI.
Also, for my camper/ Baja 94 T4 project I removed the huge stock air filter barrel box and plumbing, and installed a simple K&N cone type airfilter right over the stock intake sleeve with one band clamp, (where it first comes out of the intake manifold). Leaving new room for a second Battery box and a second starting battery, which I diverted all non-starter accessory feeds to. Then I changed the stock Bosch Altenator for a 350 amp dual rectifier alternator. # CS144-DR350 National Quick Start Sales www.alternatorparts.com about $509.95 us$
Routed to the dual starter batteries in the engine compartment, and to the dual deep cycle batteries in the camperized interior, with battery isolators. Finally, the Deep Cycle system is connected to a 3000 watt inverter with a large Capacitor in between, to handle initial power start up surges, creating a full 110volt power system that is capable of handling everything from mig welders to airconditioners, while the engine is running. This includes using a roof top RV Air Conditioner while driving (in the desert!) instead of having an engine mounted automotive A/C style unit. With shore power plug in the whole system can also run off an extention cable plugged into wall outlet or RV park when available. Baja Style Surf Van! More to come!
 
D
#26 ·
http://www.tidytransporters.co.uk/product/vw-t4/t4-performance-parts/vw-t4-2.5-tdi-intercooler-kit/

FYI: An intercooler kit for 2.5L TDI, which might also work for the 2.4 TDI project. Of course any intercooler from any turbo system could be plumbed in, custom.
I see that the VW 2.5TDI engine is also used in the Audi 100 and a6 and various 1990's vintage Volvo's and other VW's had 2.5 TDI's certain years, like the Passat. Does anyone know if any of these and if so which of these might be used as a parts source for the 2.4 project? For example are the intake and exhaust manifolds compatable?
 
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