I have had an issue like this and unfortunately it was clutch slave which is concentric slave so box out and did clutch and dmf same time £700 at my local independent
Might be the slave tho which is on top of the pedal and a lot cheaper so good luck bud T:

 

There was someone else, very recently, on this forum with what sounds like a very similar problem as yours. Can't remember if they ever posted up what the outcome was.

As a bit of possible help, it sounds like there is air in the system. The fact that by pumping the pedal it can make it start working normally suggests air. The clutch mechanism & in particular the spring works a little differently than you'd maybe expect, if it's the same as my 2005 van.
The spring assists the downward stroke up to about half travel, then assists the first part of the upward travel once it has been pressed down.
The best way to bleed the system is by pressure bleeding & if you fit a new master cylinder that's really the only way to bleed it properly.
It could of course also be the slave cylinder that is at fault, but depending on your exact vehicle this can mean a gearbox out job to replace.

If you do sort your problem out please let us all know, it really does help the next person.

 

Thank you both for your input. I was thinking it maybe wasn’t air in the system as the fluid level doesn’t appear to be dropping but I agree it’s behaving like there is air by the way it improves after driving a distance. I’ll post back with the solution when it’s sorted, hopefully it won’t be the gearbox out and new clutch etc route.

 

Apparently there is a pipe, just before the clutch line goes into the bell housing which has o-rings which dry out and start to allow air to be drawn in. This pie is close, or at the bleed nipple. Changing it may be a cheaper cure (£50 for pipe). I’ve just had it done following similar symptoms.
Biggest hassle is bleeding the clutch. First garage couldn’t get it to work, second one used a pressure bleeder and the clutch was better, but still not 100%. However, after it was re-bled today and more air extracted, it now feels much better. The design, with the bleed point being before the concentric slave cylinder inside the bell housing doesn’t really make sense, as any air in the cylinder will be difficult to expel.

 

Thanks for your suggestion, that may be the final answer to my clutch problem - after having the master cylinder replaced along with clutch,DMF, and driveshaft also. I have just had the clutch replaced today and the guy at the garage said he hopes that is back to normal now (me too now I'm £1,400 down!!). The garage suspected an air leak and I'd had the master cylinder already replaced. They said it could leak air in the system without losing fluid and when stripped down the slave showed no signs of leaking. I was told the clutch was worn along with the DMF, the worn driveshaft I suspected already so had that replaced while there.
When the problem first started I had the system pressure bled and the pedal feel improved for a week before again going soft. Next I had the master replaced and again there was an improvement but same problem again 3-4 days after. So today I've had the clutch replaced at a transmission specialist and am waiting to see if problem returns ? And if it does it must be the O rings you mention as there is nothing left to change, I would have hoped the gearbox centre I used today would have been able to check the system for leaks after going to the extent of a complete clutch change.

 

Does anyone know where the bleed valve is? Mine's a T5.1 and I've had a look around but can't find it yet/not immediately obvious.
Planning to change the fluid soon.
Cheers.

 

The bleed valve is really difficult to see. Best thing is to remove the air inlet hose from the manifold across to the inter cooler. You’ll need to move the coolant header tank (2 screws T25) and ease it back in order to see the lower hose clip.
Once you’ve removed the hose, if you look down you’ll see the gear linkage on top of the gearbox. Just push that backwards, then you’ll see the clutch pipe with the bleed valve.
It only takes about 5-10mins to clear the access so you can see and get to the valve.
Be prepared to use a pressure bleeder though. Guysons Eezibleed is about £25 from Amazon.

 

Thanks for that. Had another look earlier and thought it's either a) exactly as you described or b) I'd have to go underneath with a mirror.
Bought an Eezibleed years ago, brilliant gadget.
Cheers.

 

Well, after replacing all the “easy” bits of clutch pipe seals, master cylinder and numerous sessions of bleeding the clutch system, I’ve had my friendly garage strip the gearbox out.
Slave cylinder leaking and DMF worn. New clutch kit being fitted, along with replacing the cambelt as it’s due for replacement now the mileage is at 238k miles.

 

 

https://youtu.be/2KDLrjMlp84