That's a very tidy job, looks great!

I have a shuttle also, I removed the rear 3rd row seats and fitted a full width rock in bed. I just drop the middle row out when we set off camping. I didn't do any insulation as I didn't see the point with glass all round.
The pull up blinds are great, set of curtains also.
I stuck a battery under the single passenger seat with hook up and a night heater under the Drivers.

Two swivle seats up front, drive away awning and jobs a good in.

Good luck with your new bus mate. 🤟

 

That's a very tidy job, looks great!

I have a shuttle also, I removed the rear 3rd row seats and fitted a full width rock in bed. I just drop the middle row out when we set off camping. I didn't do any insulation as I didn't see the point with glass all round.
The pull up blinds are great, set of curtains also.
I stuck a battery under the single passenger seat with hook up and a night heater under the Drivers.

Two swivle seats up front, drive away awning and jobs a good in.

Good luck with your new bus mate. [emoji2937]

Hi
Got any pics? Looking to do a similar conversion with a removable kitchen pod and storage.
What r n r bed did you choose? What do you think the avantages over using the bench seat with a bed board configuration? What did you do about curtains.

I bought mine in February, all I've done is put alloys and a twin swivel sliding seat in, which is really good.

Cheers.

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Looks nice enough mate , not wearing those miles bad at all . 👍
Looks like a good spec too , hope you're happy bunny

 

Thanks guys, I forgot to mention I’ve had the van for just over a year now but only now had time to start this post. Re insulation, yes a lot of the heat could just go through the glass, but I hope some road noise will be also insulated. The next thing I did was to swap all the seats for two caravelle seats - no one was interested in buying the shuttle seats and they were taking up space in the house. I bought 2 swivels, the passenger one has a safe box. The drivers one bolted directly on to the seat base, but I took it off because it was too high and I did’nt like where the hand brake had to be relocated to, I’ll look at refitting it to a modified seat base at a later date, I discovered that the seats are heated - more about that in a later post.

I have also fitted a chinese heater, I had bought a stainless steel bracket for it but it did’nt fit, so I’ve fabricated some ‘temporary’ brackets and located the heater underneath the van, I bought second hand ducts and fitted them to run to the B pillar and drivers step. I cut holes in the base of the B pillar, drivers step and trim to take the ducts/vents, OEM vents on the B pillar trim and a home made one on the drivers step, (this is a temporary aluminium one tacked on until I either find an OEM one or make another out of a more robust material). I have photos somewhere of the cutouts on the drivers step and base of the B pillar, I’ll stick them on here when I work out how to move them from my album.
I fitted the control for the heater onto the C pillar - at the same time covering the hole left by a seat belt location point. Pics below, heater ducts, B pillar vent, (another has been fitted on the other side of the trim since this pic was taken), night heater control and night heater in its location under the van, after fitting the heater I refitted the underbody trim. Last pic is the temporary air intake vent on the drivers step.

 

watching with interest as I also have a 5.1 shuttle I'm looking to convert. what did you use for insulation? Did you put any in the roof or just under the windows?

 

Not done the roof yet. I used ybs-thermawrap from Screwfix combined with a laminate flooring underlay made from material similar to what camping mats are made with.
I will add more info and pics of the build later this eve.

 

fantastic with the extra info! I’m just a bit concerned about condensation and noise if its raining. Ventilation is the real answer, cracked front windows is a good Idea but could do with a roof vent or similar to get a bit of through flow. Of course that may be nonesense!

great build I’ll be pinching some ideas for sure!

 

Another shuttle owner here looking for ideas. Very nice job. I'll follow with interest.

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These pics are of the hole cut out at the base of the B pillar and with the ducts fitted.
I’v also fitted a 110 amp leisure battery with a Duritic 140a Voltage sense relay. Originally I put the battery in a cupboard located next to the passenger sliding door. I have since relocated the battery in a cupboard further towards the rear of the van just behind the C pillar, I’v made use of the space above the battery to put a cool box.

The pic below shows the inside back of the van with a temporary cupboard made from mdf.
I’ve also fitted some small rear speakers in the roof, goose necked led lamps and small strip led lights. I also replaced all the original bulbs in the roof lights with led bulbs.

Inside the cupboard was also a camping gas hob accessed via and lift up lid.

 

I bought a set of curtains all Windows and one to separate driving area to rear.

I got the M1 tested bed and fitted it with spreader plates.

Good set up for me.

I will take some picks as the seats are out just now.

 

Did you make the cabinets yourself?

If so, where did you get the aluminium rounded corner pieces from?

Nice van mate, great spec for a camper too.

 

Yep made cabinet, but I’ve replaced it with something else, aluminium is from here; Camper Interiors
I’ve also replaced the old steering wheel with a mfsw. It was a bit tatty so I refurbished it. This vid was really useful for when I fitted the wheel;

Other things I’ve done, have made a new cupboard from reclaimed flooring it won’t be to everyone’s taste but suits me. (Pics to follow) I’ve fitted a dometic twin burner hob and located the gas bottle at the back of the cupboard in its own sealed (well it will be when I’ve finished) box.
I’ve fitted a gas drop and connected the bottle to a trauma valve, I do not intend to run the van with the gas connected anyway.
I tried to find material to go on the bench seat that matched the front seats but couldn’t find anything so I had covers made for all the seats.

Seat covers, passenger seat on swivel, one side of cupboard with hob fitted, you can see I’ve added a little fold down extension to the end of the worktop - a handy place for the fruit bowl!

Bed board and rear of cupboard, behind the small door at the bottom of the cupboard is used to store bits n pieces and the wheel jack etc.,

Below, behind the door on the left is where the leisure battery is. The panel behind the seat is a temporary fix to stop the potential of any items in the back getting stuck in the seat mechanism.

Below top of unit, Part of the worktop lifts up where the cool box is kept.

 

I’ve made some midge screens, they fit in the windows of the sliding doors so I can have the windows open and keep the pesky blighters out, if they do get in, Smidge repellant works for me! This is one of them made from ply and midge netting. I’ll put some pics of them fitted on the van. I store them at the back of the cabinet where the sliding door is.

 

Those screens look real good mate 👏

 

Some nice work has gone into this, loving the oak worktop

 

Cheers, thanks for that. It’s the first time I’ve done this sort of thing, everything’s a big learning curve! A bit of info about the midge screens: frame, 3mm ply cut to 50x46.5 cm. I got the netting from here; www.midgie.net/ and the edging is this stuff; www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-PVC-Lip-Edge-Moulding---16mm-x-5mm-x-2-4m/p/121287 I cut the ply with a Stanley knife, test fitted it, spray painted it, then stretched the midge net 4 ways across the frame, pinned it, tested the tension by temporary fitting the moulding then glued the net and moulding in place. After the glue had dried I trimmed the excess netting off, sorted!

Pics of screen

 

Another job I did a few months ago was to replace the hinges on the driver and passenger doors. Not a job I was looking forward to. I had to change the hinges because they were worn and the doors were rubbing on the front wings when they were fully opened. As I guess most people know, the hinges are held by splined bolts, and four of the bolts are hidden in the door frames and awkward (really awkward!) to get at. The carpet and insulation had to be moved, sealant had to be cutaway, rubber bungs removed and then with a combination of swearing, splined head sockets, extension bars, ring spanner’s, the ability to be very flexible and having small hands I eventually managed to replace 3 of the 4 hinges, I left the lower passenger hinge as there was very little wear in it, and I had run out of swear words. I had marked the positions of the old hinges were before removing them but there was a still a lot of grunting, more swearing and face pulling as I tweaked, tapped and manoeuvred the doors back into position.
The hinges were galvanised but need painting, Normally I would have painted them myself but I’ve struggled in the past with painting galvanised surfaces properly so I had the hinges sprayed by a local body shop who did an excellent job.

 

Another job I did a few months ago was to replace the hinges on the driver and passenger doors. Not a job I was looking forward to. I had to change the hinges because they were worn and the doors were rubbing on the front wings when they were fully opened. As I guess most people know, the hinges are held by splined bolts, and four of the bolts are hidden in the door frames and awkward (really awkward!) to get at. The carpet and insulation had to be moved, sealant had to be cutaway, rubber bungs removed and then with a combination of swearing, splined head sockets, extension bars, ring spanner’s, the ability to be very flexible and having small hands I eventually managed to replace 3 of the 4 hinges, I left the lower passenger hinge as there was very little wear in it, and I had run out of swear words. I had marked the positions of the old hinges were before removing them but there was a still a lot of grunting, more swearing and face pulling as I tweaked, tapped and manoeuvred the doors back into position.
The hinges were galvanised but need painting, Normally I would have painted them myself but I’ve struggled in the past with painting galvanised surfaces properly so I had the hinges sprayed by a local body shop who did an Excellent job

 

Nothing as adventurous as you guys but have also recently purchased a shuttle which has been used by a disabled driver with a wheelchair hoist.
It has wheelchair anchors in the floor but has no back seats, It has 1 middle seat and 2 single front seats, I’d like to fit a caravelle or California Folding seat/ bed just as the one shown on this thread.
I‘ve seen caravelle layouts with 4 rails but see on here that 2 seem to work, I assume this can’t be bolted, anyone know of a north east guy who might do the work and where to source seat and and rails.
Thanks

 

Hi Jacksafc, the rails are bolted and all of the holes used to secure the seats can be used, the holes in the rails line up with the holes in the floor but a few more holes need to be drilled through the floor though, not a big job really, but it’s best to have another person helping. The fuel tank needs to be lowered, I used threaded rod in place of the bolts going through the straps holding the tank up, I then gradually lowered the tank by unwinding nuts that I had threaded onto the rods. Rails can be bought from a few places such as Cotswold t5 and Kernow Transporters, they ain’t cheap tho, make sure you also get the square headed bolts which fit in the rails and use locking nuts.
Good luck!

 

Forgot to mention, seats can also be sourced from same folks who sell the rails, I am sure there are many others out there as well.

 

When fitting the rails into the existing carpeted floor do I cut the channels into the floor or remove the floor first then refit on completion .

 

If you are going to get rails, you will have to remove all existing floor covering. After the rails are fitted you have to build up the floor to ensure the final covering (eg carpet) is flush with the top of the rail when completed. If your van had been converted for a wheel chair user the floor of the van may have had some adaptions - has any of it been cut away?

 

It’s a strange layout, 2 individual front seats captain style but don’t rotate, one single quick release seat behind the driver Then 4 circular proprietary anchors recessed into the floor With adjustable seat belts that clip onto the anchors to hold the wheelchair.
What I’m trying to do is retain the 3 seats and fit a caravelle style triple seat or similar at the back which doubles as a bed

 

What I’m trying to do is retain the 3 seats and fit a caravelle style triple seat or similar at the back which doubles as a bed

This is the carpet that came out of the rear of my shuttle, the four slots correspond to where the rear 3 seat bench was bolted in place. If the floor of your vehicle has not been altered you should find it’s the same. From what I remember the bench seat used to fold and could also be laid flat.

 

I am guessing that what you describe as seat belts that clip into the anchor points may be ‘tie downs’ they look like seat belts but as you say, are used to secure a wheel chair, usually the two front ones are short lengths of webbing and may have a karabiner type fitting at each end, one to the floor anchor the other to the wheel chair, the rear tie downs, in addition to the karabiners, usually have some form of ratchet mechanism to tension and hold the wheel chair in place. Re a triple seat, there maybe already be holes in the floor to bolt the seat to. You should be able to see them when you take up the carpet. It may be a bit cramped if you fit one and retain the single seat behind the drivers seat.

 

Hi and Many thanks to both for the help, at one point I wasn’t sure what the car was, I was told it was a transporter with a DSG gearbox, then was advised transporters weren’t fitted with DSG, then came across the shuttle portal, The log book says Tporter T30 130 TDI SWB Body Type Minibus,Tax Diesel, 4 seats, as it now only has 3 seats I assume 1 was removed as part of the disability refit, the refit was carried out by Lewis Reed and looks a quality job and included an electric hoist and hand controls which I’ve had removed, wondering now if they took the original seat fixings out or could they have put a new floor and the anchors on top of the original fixings.
On a factory standard transporter is the carpet fitted on top of a plywood or similar sub base.
Apologies for going on a bit but i bought a vw to convert into a day van and find there are so many models and variations they’re difficult to follow.

 

On a factory standard transporter is the carpet fitted on top of a plywood or similar sub base.

I think the carpet is installed directly onto the bare metal floor, at least that’s what mine was like. I think none shuttle vehicles can be ply lined on request when first bought or, later as a diy job.

 

The floor is intact, no lowered areas etc for access, the hoist used to lift the chair clear of the ground and bring it into the car horizontally.

 

Another job was to silent coat the cab area and add cables for the sub and wiring for the retrofitted heated seats. (See pics below) The thick red cable on the left side runs from the main battery to the leisure battery. The red speaker cable and wiring on the right side is for the sub which went under the driver seat, also there is the kufatec loom for the heated seats. There have been numerous posts by people trying to retrofit heated seats and they have been really useful. As mentioned in another post (Retrofit heated seats) the seats are from an older model van than mine, with each seat having a separate control unit and wiring to individual dashboard switches. Facelift vehicles only have one control unit and the switches are inside the heater unit dials. Because I was not sure of which way to connect the seats I bought two different kufatec looms. One loom had the connections at one end that fitted my seats but had connections for dashboard switches at the other end. The other loom’s seat connections were different and did not fit my seats and there was only one connection at the other end to a control unit. Because I thought I may be able to wire my seats as the older vehicles I decided to sell the loom made for the face lift model and it went to Pac-Man - who has been really helpful with lots of topics via his posts. I bought dashboard switches and was ready fit everything then changed my mind! I replaced the old heater control unit with one that includes buttons within the dials for heated seats and contacted Stan the Man about having a loom made specific for my particular situation. He has helped enormously, he talked through how to adapt the kufatec loom and made an adapter for me so I can connect to the fuse box, the only thing I now have to do is figure out is, from where at the back of the fuse box is a live switched feed?