Lots of posts on here.

I had tidied up my wheel arch lips with some rustoleum blue paint I had left over from a household job. Great finish.

Blue rustoleum but when I gave it a little cover of Carribean Green the local motor factors had made up for me it reacted badly. So I don't think the two will mix.

Good luck.

 

rustoleum anyonoe?

 

i wont be painting over it with any other paint thinking of painting the whole van seen a few videos on youtube looks ok just want some feedback from folks who have used it thanks for infoT:

 

I have read loads on this and viewed utube about it , you can get a great finish apparently ,but if you ever want to put any other paint on it it all has to come off or a sealer must be applied.

I think Hammerite is the same.

I contacted this company and they told me there are no such issues with their paint as far as they are aware.

http://www.militaryvehiclepaint.co.uk/index.php

 

I have done a car in the past. Didn't look good. Have done my roof, it's just acceptable for now. Did the bonnet and i cannot get a good finish. I dont like it.

 

paint all my wheels with it...and did my bonnet with it..ace stuff..and drys 4000 times faster than hammerite :ILU:

 

look on the 80 90 forum couple of guys did their t25's with the paint

Mix it thin
Put a coat on with a foam roller
wait 20 mins do again
flat back and repete process

Some say that with a bit of work you can get a showroom finish and all for 100 quid

 

think im gonna use tecaloid or coach enamel my father in law was a coach paiter before he had ill health and i saw his work it looks like its been sprayed on but its applied with a brush and it self flattens and leaves a gloss laquered finish so im gonna buy some and start doing my prep work only problem is i have a badly dented panel thats gone through about 4 swage lines and im slowly building it up with filler and sanding it flat but its so difficult because the dent when i pushed it out on the panel running down the rear of the drivers door to the rear arch was realy badly damaged so it wont be perfect but no body shop wanted to touch it for less than 800 quid which when alls said its a 98 model van. i initialy was gonna use rattle cans on the panel but when i worked it out buying rattle cans for a few extra quid i can buy 5 litres of coach enamel and lay it on with a brush my dad assures me its easy just use a good brush and foam roller, i will keep you posted nearer the date

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3UCEbGZmz0


Like this?

 

i like spudster cheers

 

Ubique.
How serious are you?

I've been messing with the van tonight. The thing with my van is, that when I picked it up, I was aware it had been tinkered with on the cheap paint wise. Some of the panels have always looked flatter than the others, and there's areas where it's not been flatted properly - a bit of orange peel here and there.
I got the van cheap as, a few years ago, with 120k on it. Around a grand - so couldn't really grumble over a lack of showroom shine. It had obviously had some rust work done and a home paintjob, which was fair enough, and I wanted it for work - it was tidy enough.
Bought it blind on ebay anyway

So tonight, I was messing about, I lowered it at the weekend and wanted to test fit a front wheel. So I decided to get the t-cut out and have a go at the nearside front wing (which is one of the areas that's been messed with in the past).
I'd been thinking the paint would shine up a bit with a cut, and that I might have to rub it and mess with it a bit to get it looking ok - that was always my plan, and there's bits of bubbling coming through that I was going to treat and patch too.

Anyway, it was worrying tonight, because there's areas that after a cut, are showing pinpoint signs of primer. It's like the paint's on dead thick in some areas, with orange peel, and in other areas, it's as thin as it can be.
I'm thinking that the amount of patching it's going to need after rust treatment, coupled with the dodgy areas of the van that have been home painted, maybe I'm better going down the route of full paint.
Was just out there now mulling it over, and came in here to start a thread to get advice and opinions........

The other significant thing for me, is that when I washed down one of the panels to give it a cut, I watched it dry, and it dried with horizontal lines in places - just like it's been rollered and not brushed after...............
Can't honestly see what else would result in it drying like that.

So it was very interesting to stumble on this conversation between you and the spud there.
I was actually mulling over a matt paint job in the same colour as it is now (Paprika Red).

I'm thinking matt would sort of suit the look I'm going for, and that the finish might be more forgiving. Dunno though.....

I took some pictures, will load them up and see how they came out.
Very interested to get yours, Spud's and other opinions on this.
My budget is basically limited to what the rust treatment and patching was going to cost me - DIY. There's no way I can afford to have the whole van blown over - no way at all.

Unplanned complication - again

 

im dead serious , my father in law was a proffessional coach painter and he has advised me to use a paint called tekaloid which is a coach enamel it can be brushed on and flattens doesnt need any thinning just a drip of turps in the paint kettle and a decent 3 inch brush for laying it on and a 1 inch brush for fine detailing round swages and windows, i have seen work he has done with it on lorries and cars and it looks so good you would think it has been sprayed on after 6 hours you can fatten it further to give a super gloss finish with very fine wet and dry and then polish it with wax on a buffer. it realy does look good, i am doing it when i get back off my hols £100 all in for 5 litres and consumbles brushes etc i will keep everyone informed, regards ubique.T:

 

Tekaloid is what they use on Royal carriage,s and original coachbuilders such as Hoopers and Mulliner that did Rolls Royce, it is by far the best coach paint there is, use only the best brush, Hamilton or Purdy, prep well and in the right hands will look every bit as good as spray, my grandfathers work was superior to spraying. These links will give you tips, the finish is dependant on how far you want to go but, with a clearcoat to finish it will outshine any spray, dont confuse it with Rustoleum

http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk/tekaloid.html

http://www.smithandallan.com/prodpage.aspx?id=1442

 

I watched that vid, looks dead easy. T:
Thing is with mine, I want to try to keep it near as damn it the original colour. I reckon that red would look good in a matt finish too. Are there mixing options with the stuff you're using mate?

Make sure you do keep us informed. Really interested to see how you get on with it. I can see how you could further refine the shine too. On the vid, he gets a decent finish just with a quick brush over, but would really like to see what it's possible to get after further messing and polishing.

 

For the record; This is what I'm on about with mine.

First pic when I tried the front wheel with the drop tonight (Paint looks almost acceptable from a distance)
The nearest wing is the one I've done the close ups of:

So, this one is of the arch on that nearside front wing. Note the specs of primer visible.
I don't know whether it's thin coverage, or the fact they didn't roller it enough, and left like bubbles.

The wing is the same as that the whole way up toward the wing mirror.
Next pic is of the corner of that wing above the indicator (Orange peel):

Next one is of the adjoining bit to the bonnet, on that same wing:

The passenger door is the same, areas around the fuel cap, the driver's door, and the whole of the bottom panels on the driver's side. You can see the join at the rear between the rollered areas and the original paint.

The way I'm thinking, is that after doing stone chips, rollered panels and the usual rusty bits after treatment, I might be better to attack the whole van...

Seems extreme, but what's the alternative if you can't stretch to a full respray?

 

thats exactly true

 

I've done mine in acrylic tangiers orange with small foam rollers, and its better than I ever imagined!! 2 Coats of 60/40 (paint/ thinners) flatted between coats, final coat of 50/50 left for weeks while we got monsoon season out of the way then mopped with poor boys cutting compound.
Good depth of shine and clean reflections, may not win a show and shine but its a thousand times better than when I started.
Give it a go, saved myself £2500, all done on the drive!!!

 

Get some pictures up oddjobz? T:

Did you use Rustoleum, or Tekaloid?

 

now watching this tekaloid with interest

 

I'm having some of that. Want my roof done black, when the rain stops. I:

 

are you using the tekaloid? If so post up pics and your views on its application and finish T:

 

I painted out splitty with tekaloid, well it was s.posed to be tekaloid but they gave me some other brand of coach enamel

i have a 6 X 3 M party tent and sprayed it on one day

i used a cheap HVLP gun and as the stuff flowed flat, i did not even need to flat it afterwards

it came out very nice and it hard wearing

5 years on it still looks nice enough, its never going to win awards, but has a nice shine and thats straight from the gun ( no flatting or polish )

 

it can even be done with 2pack paint!
week before i was planning to take my hiace van to retro rides show.. had a little run in with the front of a tractor!

DSC00063 by buzzer 74, on Flickr
repaired it over a couple of evenings..

DSC00094 by buzzer 74, on Flickr
but didn't have time/or the space to spray it..
so the night before the show i mixed up enough to roller it on

DSC00096 by buzzer 74, on Flickr

DSC00097 by buzzer 74, on Flickr
was only ever meant to be a temporary measure... but after a wet flat a food going over with the mop, you would have been hard pushed to notice the difference

 

Hi

Did you get around to a Tekaloid job? Looking for a super cheap way to paint mine that still looks pretty good. Tekaloid is sounding good at the moment. If so, any pics?

cheers

 

Your better off spraying a good top lac enamel same stuff as they use on narrowboats but make sure you use a good paint international is probably the best can be bought from any narrow boat chandelers can be put on with roller but takes a lot of work and a load of sanding and flating back but you can get a good finish but due to all the curves on a van makes it really hard far better of mixing it with international grade 1 thinners and spraying it but you must keep the temperature up on the van goes on lovely and sticks like s**t to a blanket far thicker than celulose and a better job thats what we used on our van see pictures!!

 

I painted my van with rustoleum. Didn't get on with the roller as it left air bubbles in the finish so switched to a brush to finish. I found I could only do one coat a day as it was all done on the drive. It's important to flat back between coats and to get enough coats on to be able to flat back to a smooth finish before polishing. I couldn't get enough of a shine by hand with the Farecla G3 I used so ended up buying a silverline polisher which has brought up a good shine. If I had had a garage I would have bought an Apollo spray gun to do it. It's a lot of work but you should get a reasonable finish for little money. If I was doing it again I would do the roof first before doing the rest of the van rather than trying to do it all together.

Good luck!

 

Hi mate.

I have Roller painted using rustoleoum in the past. I hand painted my old T25 in thier baby blue colour and Its a great way of making your wagon prettier without the expenditure of a spray job but please dont expect highgloss finishes without hours and hours of wet-sanding. I will list a couple of points if I may to help you before you go ahead.

- Make sure you have plenty of time to carry this out. It doesn't take 5 mins like the videos show.
- Preparation is key. I must have spent 2 months of weekends and evenings grinding, filling and sanding and about 8 hours in total laying the paint
- I Removed all the windows and panels to do the best job.
- Test paint an old bonnet from the scrappers or something first to get the consistency right. I wish I had done this. My first layer went on so thick and dried too quickly meaning I had what looked liked textured wallpaper on my van! It took hours of more sanding to get back smooth.
- I bought foam rollers, white spirit, measuring jugs, rags, and sandpaper from the pound shop to keep costs down.
- I used the rollers to lay the paint down in large areas and then foam paint brushes to smooth out marks, drips and to get into hard to reach areas. you can get them on ebay from as little as £5 for a good selection of shapes and sizes.
- I did not wet sand the paint after I had laid it all on. I had spent so long on it in the end I just wanted to drive it! It was smooth and glossy but not a showroom finish. It looked great from 5meters away but closr up you could see it was textured.
- Read lots of how to's before you start. Club80-90 forum is a great place for this.


Here is Bulli, My old T25 (these are actually my for sale pics!) This is the paint job you could achieve!

 

Watching this all with interest as i am going to be hand painting my Van 'Lilly' this summer. The van is all being done on a budget. Have done lots of research on this topic and with some hard work and effort i think the right effect can be achieved with Rustoleum, flatting back and mopping it once its finished. Although now i am def going to research some of the other coachpaints available.

If you are on a budget and have the spare time. You can achieve a good finish if you dont rush it! Its all in the prep.