The first 3 settings on my T5,blower are not working only works on the 4th setting,any ideas,ill near to source some ear plugs shortly,
banana 2
Sounds like the heater resistor unit. It's behind the dash on the passenger side. If you remove the long strip just below the glove box and look in, you should see a plug with 4 wires coming of it. You will have to remove a few panels to change it but it doesn't take to long.
Cheers Jimmy ,will check it out,also van hesitates for a second just below 2k when accelerating,does the gate valve need cleaned or replaced,it blew a turbo hose off last year coming home from ,italy after being remapped,and had to limp home,thought it might be full of carbon or oil,,,,it was an interesting journey home to Scotland....
I was quoted £495 (June 2011) by a North London VW dealer to fix my heater blower but I was able to fix it with a replacement thermal fuse from Maplins for 82pence! - read on...
The dealer claimed that the resistor pack had to be replaced and with it the fan, as the bearings would be shot to pieces. I was told that the parts would cost £225, the rest was labour. Well the bearings were stiff and that was clearly the main cause but I have now re-greased them and they should be good for a while yet. As for the £270 labour cost, this is literally a 20 minute job and you won't need any special tools other than a torx driver bit (T15 I think).
BTW I have taken photos of each stage but could see how to upload them so if someone would like to tell me I will oblige.
My van is a 1.9Ltr Diesel SWB T5 with 8 seats.
1) Right at the back of the passenger footwell is the first panel to remove. In my case this is a black plastic panel. This has three screws across the top edge and then falls down and can be pulled out.
2) Using your car key or a screwdriver remove the panel to the fuses, which is below the ashtray
3) Behind this you will find three screws holding the lower dashboard in place. Remove these.
4) At the very back of the footwell and against the main console you will find a single screw securing the lower dash (light grey in my case), remove this screw.
5) Open the passenger door fully. Against the side of the dashboard is a panel which has a circular vent in it for the door de-mist. This whole panel (not just the vent) simplypops off. Use a wide bladed screwdriver and wrap the tip with electrical tape to protect the facia.
6) Once this is off the rest becomes obvious. One screw releases a rectangular panel on the face of the dashboard (dark grey in my case). You will need to prise this off, but that's easy.
7) This then reveals another screw which secures part of the light grey (in my case) lower dashboard
8) Pull this towards you. There are three or four push connections you will need to free. Don't worry if the airbag cover above this pops forward as it just pops back too. I noticed that this seems to have a bit of net-like fabric holding it along it's top edge and didn't want to pull it out. Forthunately you don't need to.
9) You should now be able to remove the whole lower dashboard.
The resistor pack is now right in front of you. It has a connector block with 4 wires and two hex head screws securing it. Take it out.
Once out you will find that bridging the two outer connections is an electrical component that looks a bit like a resistor. This is the thermal fuse. Having read other forums it would appear that this is almost always what fails. Printed on its body is its rating, in my case it was 240C i.e. 240 degrees celcius. As mentioned above, Maplin sell these for 82 pence. The unit has a very clear conical taper at one end. Not knowing whether this was critical I was sure to solder the replacement the same way around and I would suggest you do the same.
If like me you want to grease the bearings of the fan, then you can find it to the door side of the resistor pack and has four bolts securing it. Just slide it down. To get the motor out of the casing locate the tapered rubber tabs that secure it into the body, then one by one and using a flat bladed screwdriver squash the wide end of the taper in and up to release it. This will allow you access to the rear bearing.
Refitting is just the reverse but when re-fitting the large lower dashboard panel, be sure to engage the plastic 'hook' at the bottom - you'll see what I mean.
Good luck and I hope this helps lots of people save a small fortune
The dealer claimed that the resistor pack had to be replaced and with it the fan, as the bearings would be shot to pieces. I was told that the parts would cost £225, the rest was labour. Well the bearings were stiff and that was clearly the main cause but I have now re-greased them and they should be good for a while yet. As for the £270 labour cost, this is literally a 20 minute job and you won't need any special tools other than a torx driver bit (T15 I think).
BTW I have taken photos of each stage but could see how to upload them so if someone would like to tell me I will oblige.
My van is a 1.9Ltr Diesel SWB T5 with 8 seats.
1) Right at the back of the passenger footwell is the first panel to remove. In my case this is a black plastic panel. This has three screws across the top edge and then falls down and can be pulled out.
2) Using your car key or a screwdriver remove the panel to the fuses, which is below the ashtray
3) Behind this you will find three screws holding the lower dashboard in place. Remove these.
4) At the very back of the footwell and against the main console you will find a single screw securing the lower dash (light grey in my case), remove this screw.
5) Open the passenger door fully. Against the side of the dashboard is a panel which has a circular vent in it for the door de-mist. This whole panel (not just the vent) simplypops off. Use a wide bladed screwdriver and wrap the tip with electrical tape to protect the facia.
6) Once this is off the rest becomes obvious. One screw releases a rectangular panel on the face of the dashboard (dark grey in my case). You will need to prise this off, but that's easy.
7) This then reveals another screw which secures part of the light grey (in my case) lower dashboard
8) Pull this towards you. There are three or four push connections you will need to free. Don't worry if the airbag cover above this pops forward as it just pops back too. I noticed that this seems to have a bit of net-like fabric holding it along it's top edge and didn't want to pull it out. Forthunately you don't need to.
9) You should now be able to remove the whole lower dashboard.
The resistor pack is now right in front of you. It has a connector block with 4 wires and two hex head screws securing it. Take it out.
Once out you will find that bridging the two outer connections is an electrical component that looks a bit like a resistor. This is the thermal fuse. Having read other forums it would appear that this is almost always what fails. Printed on its body is its rating, in my case it was 240C i.e. 240 degrees celcius. As mentioned above, Maplin sell these for 82 pence. The unit has a very clear conical taper at one end. Not knowing whether this was critical I was sure to solder the replacement the same way around and I would suggest you do the same.
If like me you want to grease the bearings of the fan, then you can find it to the door side of the resistor pack and has four bolts securing it. Just slide it down. To get the motor out of the casing locate the tapered rubber tabs that secure it into the body, then one by one and using a flat bladed screwdriver squash the wide end of the taper in and up to release it. This will allow you access to the rear bearing.
Refitting is just the reverse but when re-fitting the large lower dashboard panel, be sure to engage the plastic 'hook' at the bottom - you'll see what I mean.
Good luck and I hope this helps lots of people save a small fortune
A few days after making this repair the blower stopped again. The problem was that the temperatures in the unit are high enough to melt electrical solder. The simple solution was to attach the thermal fuse with a couple of screw terminal blocks (cut off the plastic first as this will melt). All has been fine since then.
When I wrote the item above I didn't know how to add pictures, but here they are now:
The screw at the back of the footwell
![Image]()
Prizing off the end-cap
![Image]()
The end exposed with the rectangular panel removed
![Image]()
Popping off the lower dash
![Image]()
The resistor pack with the 82pence thermal fuse soldered in place. Don't do this as the solder will melt, instead use screw terminals.
![Image]()
I hope this is both clear and useful
When I wrote the item above I didn't know how to add pictures, but here they are now:
The screw at the back of the footwell
Prizing off the end-cap
The end exposed with the rectangular panel removed
Popping off the lower dash
The resistor pack with the 82pence thermal fuse soldered in place. Don't do this as the solder will melt, instead use screw terminals.
I hope this is both clear and useful
Very useful! I've gone through two of these resistor modules in quick succession at a cost of around 30 Quid each from VW. Was also told my fan motor was most likely to be on the way out and this was causing the resistor burn-out. Shudder to think how much a new one would cost from VW.
Will try your re-grease route first - relatively easy job? Might also be an idea to get myself down to Maplins for a resistor!A:
Will try your re-grease route first - relatively easy job? Might also be an idea to get myself down to Maplins for a resistor!A:
Dear 8tomblaster, just had to write to thank you for posting such a detailed fix for this (quite common) fault which I suffered 2 x days ago on my 2007 mdl T5 LWB 130 Shuttle. I bought 2 x of these little fuses, and yes the 240 is the blow temp in C. Done and finished in an hour. Total cost £1.68. I also greased up the motor bearing as well as I could. A day before the failure I did hear a slight squeaking from the motor (well I think it was the motor, but it might have been a very hot resistor pack - do they make a noise?). Anyway, the fan speed control failed within 24 hours of the first squeak.
Just for interest my Shuttle has now covered 267k miles. If any one needs help with the following, I might be able to help - because I had them all replaced;-
waterpump
oil cooler x 2
cam shaft and all followers
rear wheel bearings
auto gearbox (ouch!) at 205k
turbo
exhaust manifold
exhaust gas return valve
air mass flow meter
Particulates Filter (ouch again!) at 250k
O2 sensor
lower suspension bushes
But she still looks like new !!
Thanks again
Tony
Just for interest my Shuttle has now covered 267k miles. If any one needs help with the following, I might be able to help - because I had them all replaced;-
waterpump
oil cooler x 2
cam shaft and all followers
rear wheel bearings
auto gearbox (ouch!) at 205k
turbo
exhaust manifold
exhaust gas return valve
air mass flow meter
Particulates Filter (ouch again!) at 250k
O2 sensor
lower suspension bushes
But she still looks like new !!
Thanks again
Tony
Help wanted please guys im new to the forum and found this thread as i have the same problem on my T5 shuttle LWB. I found this thread more then helpful so thank you all, im not the most mechanically minded but can do the basic. This probably seems a silly question to some of you but i removed my resistor and made sure i was looking at the right thing LOL, and got what i presume is the part number from the front plastic casing, but i was wondering if the fan should still work only on top speed once the resistor is removed and there is no electric to the resistor. If its a silly question please say so i can take it LOL
Thanks for any help guys
Sy
Thanks for any help guys
Sy
I had the same problem with my resistor pack blowing the thermal fuse. You can replace the fuse by soldering anew one on, I think I used a 95 degree C one when I did mine. I did take out the fan unit and lubricate it all but very shortly afterwards the thermal fuse went again. I fitted a new fan (about £170) and the thing is now fixed, Be wary of putting in too high a temp thermal fuse as all of the mouldings are polypropelene and this will start to melt at around 90 degrees C although won't drip until past 200 degrees. The fan also blows much better. At the same time I put in a new filter/
Yes if the resistor pack has failed you will only get full speed from the blower fan and that should be the case too if you remove it. If the fan is blowing nicely then it's just the resistor pack that has failed. I spoke to a guy who repairs these and according to him it's always the fuse. As mentioned above you can buy these cheaply and attach them with a screw terminal - simple
Re: t5 blower problems Air Con
Thanks very much to 8Tomblaster for such a good post. I have a late 2007 T5 and this now has the same problem so yesterday I started to remove the panels as 8Tom had shown. First prob was that the end panel did not have the side vent it still came off but the whole layout was different still got the panels off only to find I could not see the resister unit. I believe this is due to the fact that my van has Air Con. Has any one mended the blower unit on a van with Air Con? Does it have the same unit fitted if so where is it?
Hope someone can help as my ears cant stand the blower on full blast.
Many thanks Andy
Thanks very much to 8Tomblaster for such a good post. I have a late 2007 T5 and this now has the same problem so yesterday I started to remove the panels as 8Tom had shown. First prob was that the end panel did not have the side vent it still came off but the whole layout was different still got the panels off only to find I could not see the resister unit. I believe this is due to the fact that my van has Air Con. Has any one mended the blower unit on a van with Air Con? Does it have the same unit fitted if so where is it?
Hope someone can help as my ears cant stand the blower on full blast.
Many thanks Andy
Re: t5 blower problems Air Con
high as a kite, ive just done this fix, and mine stumped me for a second as well, if your looking for something that looks like the pictures, thats your first mistake, its screwed in, towards the engine so you cant see it, the base is like a long rectangle with round ends (==) sorta shape... undo the 2 screws and it pops of as per the picture.
great thread cheers! although i changed my fuse, which had blown, proven by ammeter it still didnt fix the problem. if anyone else stumbles across this i took the motor out and found that the brushes had worn out and no longer touched the contacts. (van has done 130000) as a simple bodge, i filed down the brush housing so that they touched again, i predict it will be ok for another 10000 miles. the unit is a bit tricky to take apart as it looks like it has been designed to be disposable. do-able though!!
high as a kite, ive just done this fix, and mine stumped me for a second as well, if your looking for something that looks like the pictures, thats your first mistake, its screwed in, towards the engine so you cant see it, the base is like a long rectangle with round ends (==) sorta shape... undo the 2 screws and it pops of as per the picture.
great thread cheers! although i changed my fuse, which had blown, proven by ammeter it still didnt fix the problem. if anyone else stumbles across this i took the motor out and found that the brushes had worn out and no longer touched the contacts. (van has done 130000) as a simple bodge, i filed down the brush housing so that they touched again, i predict it will be ok for another 10000 miles. the unit is a bit tricky to take apart as it looks like it has been designed to be disposable. do-able though!!
I got my friendly VW Van dealer to change it. Yes once they showed me where it was I could have kicked my self as it turned out I don’t think it was the Thrmal fuse as when I checked the resistor on a meter it did not look right..
Guys
Mine is working on number 3 & 4.
Would this still point to the thermal fuse or is it something else.
Thanks
Kempy
Mine is working on number 3 & 4.
Would this still point to the thermal fuse or is it something else.
Thanks
Kempy
Hi Guys
I have just changed mine and its made no difference.
It still only works on position 3 & 4.
Any ideas?
Thanks
I have just changed mine and its made no difference.
It still only works on position 3 & 4.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Right
After further inspection I think it might be the switch that is dodgy on mine.
There are 5 cables entering the switch. 3 of these are larger cables. I think one is ground, one is constant 12v and another must be control cable. (I think)
They output the following voltages down the control cable when you turn the dial:-
Position 0 - 12v
Postition 1 - 0v
Position 2 - 0v
Position 3 - 3v
Position 4 - 0v
So Im thinking logically postions 1 & 2 should be approx 6v & 9v.
Has anyone had this problem before?
It looks like the dials are all on one circuit board.
Im going to see if there re any broken contacts. If I can get it apart
After further inspection I think it might be the switch that is dodgy on mine.
There are 5 cables entering the switch. 3 of these are larger cables. I think one is ground, one is constant 12v and another must be control cable. (I think)
They output the following voltages down the control cable when you turn the dial:-
Position 0 - 12v
Postition 1 - 0v
Position 2 - 0v
Position 3 - 3v
Position 4 - 0v
So Im thinking logically postions 1 & 2 should be approx 6v & 9v.
Has anyone had this problem before?
It looks like the dials are all on one circuit board.
Im going to see if there re any broken contacts. If I can get it apart
Well took all the heater control facia apart.
What a ballache.
I completely removed all the circuit board (which i now thinks only does the a/c etc and has no effect on blower control), I also took aprt the actual meachanical 0-4 control knob.
All seems to look ok and tested connections across it so its all back together again now.
Still same as before only working on 3 & 4.
Ive gone back to testing the thermal resistor pack thing again.
Ive noticed that when you use a multimeter across the contacts you get continuinety between pins 1 & 4, 2 & 3.
Have any of you guys noticed the same or can confirm if my actual pack is duff and not the the thermal resistor as first thought?
I may be barking up the wrong tree and dont want to go and spend £40 to find out
Thanks Again
What a ballache.
I completely removed all the circuit board (which i now thinks only does the a/c etc and has no effect on blower control), I also took aprt the actual meachanical 0-4 control knob.
All seems to look ok and tested connections across it so its all back together again now.
Still same as before only working on 3 & 4.
Ive gone back to testing the thermal resistor pack thing again.
Ive noticed that when you use a multimeter across the contacts you get continuinety between pins 1 & 4, 2 & 3.
Have any of you guys noticed the same or can confirm if my actual pack is duff and not the the thermal resistor as first thought?
I may be barking up the wrong tree and dont want to go and spend £40 to find out
Thanks Again
8tomblaster,
I have just posted a "Thanks" to Chudsy for showing how to replace the fan thermal fuse (by using a small electrical connector), I have also found your information and photos excellent. My local dealer wanted to charge me £70 for the resistor pack, so to you also a BIG "Thanks". T:
I have just posted a "Thanks" to Chudsy for showing how to replace the fan thermal fuse (by using a small electrical connector), I have also found your information and photos excellent. My local dealer wanted to charge me £70 for the resistor pack, so to you also a BIG "Thanks". T:
My poor vents, today I've removed the resistor pack and had a look at the fuse... I don't get how the solder would melt? It would have to heat upto 361°F to start melting. I've also fixed my blowers today as they was basically stuck on windscreen to.
The problem with the blower was the metal wire was bent and needed to be adjusted.
![Image]()
Just before I removed my resistor pack, you can see it in the middle for some reason at first I thought it would be pretty much near the door.
![Image]()
It would have to heat upto 361°F to start melting. I've also fixed my blowers today as they was basically stuck on windscreen to. The problem with the blower was the metal wire was bent and needed to be adjusted.
Just before I removed my resistor pack, you can see it in the middle for some reason at first I thought it would be pretty much near the door.
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