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Right
After further inspection I think it might be the switch that is dodgy on mine.

There are 5 cables entering the switch. 3 of these are larger cables. I think one is ground, one is constant 12v and another must be control cable. (I think)

They output the following voltages down the control cable when you turn the dial:-

Position 0 - 12v
Postition 1 - 0v
Position 2 - 0v
Position 3 - 3v
Position 4 - 0v

So Im thinking logically postions 1 & 2 should be approx 6v & 9v.

Has anyone had this problem before?

It looks like the dials are all on one circuit board.
Im going to see if there re any broken contacts. If I can get it apart
 
Hi guys I have replaced one blower already at aus$660 for part at 120 k now for the last 60k only Blowing on 3/4 speed but now only and not very well on 4 will investigate with this info and post when done . I'll have to find one of those temp resisters to try
Thanks Tony
 
Well took all the heater control facia apart.
What a ballache.
I completely removed all the circuit board (which i now thinks only does the a/c etc and has no effect on blower control), I also took aprt the actual meachanical 0-4 control knob.
All seems to look ok and tested connections across it so its all back together again now.
Still same as before only working on 3 & 4.

Ive gone back to testing the thermal resistor pack thing again.

Ive noticed that when you use a multimeter across the contacts you get continuinety between pins 1 & 4, 2 & 3.

Have any of you guys noticed the same or can confirm if my actual pack is duff and not the the thermal resistor as first thought?

I may be barking up the wrong tree and dont want to go and spend ÂŁ40 to find out :)

Thanks Again
 
8tomblaster,

I have just posted a "Thanks" to Chudsy for showing how to replace the fan thermal fuse (by using a small electrical connector), I have also found your information and photos excellent. My local dealer wanted to charge me ÂŁ70 for the resistor pack, so to you also a BIG "Thanks". T:
 
My poor vents, today I've removed the resistor pack and had a look at the fuse... I don't get how the solder would melt? :eek: It would have to heat upto 361°F to start melting. I've also fixed my blowers today as they was basically stuck on windscreen to.
The problem with the blower was the metal wire was bent and needed to be adjusted.

Image


Just before I removed my resistor pack, you can see it in the middle for some reason at first I thought it would be pretty much near the door.
Image
 
Guys

I thought I'd let you all know.
I bit the bullet and ordered a new resistor pack form VW.

Mine was originally differnent to most as it was working on 3 & 4.
I fitted a new thermal resistor from maplins to my existing pack and it didnt make any difference.

Additionially Ii tested by disconnecting the whole pack too, worked on position 4 only as it should do.

Anyway fitted the new pack tonight and its cured the problem.
Works on 1,2,3 & 4 now.

I suspect that the internal resistor pack cores were broken. As described earlier I didnt get continuity between all 4 terminals.
Happy Days
 
Thanks for the link,

Here's my thermal fuse repaired.
Image


While I was at it I decided to lube up my blower motor as this can cause the thermal fuse to blow if they become stiff or clog up.
Only a extra 7 screws to undo.

The fan motor is inside the casing with the blue writing.
Image

Once you unclip the fan motor it will still have some casing around it this is held in by 4 rubber "wedges" pop it out and then lube it up and be amazed by how much comes off it!
Image


When putting it back together make sure you put the 4 rubber "wedges" in properly otherwise the fan will rub on the inside of the dash.
 
Any chance you could post up the part number and the approx cost just for future reference..please ?
Thermal Resistor Pack - #VWE0 959 263 ÂŁ33.19+vat
I think this is listed earlier on in the thread but it basically the whole unit as in the first picture of Twines post post above.

I just wished replacing just the reisistor had fixed it. Would have got another one over VW parts department then LOL:

Cheers
Kempy
 
Dear 8tomblaster, just had to write to thank you for posting such a detailed fix for this (quite common) fault which I suffered 2 x days ago on my 2007 mdl T5 LWB 130 Shuttle. I bought 2 x of these little fuses, and yes the 240 is the blow temp in C. Done and finished in an hour. Total cost ÂŁ1.68. I also greased up the motor bearing as well as I could. A day before the failure I did hear a slight squeaking from the motor (well I think it was the motor, but it might have been a very hot resistor pack - do they make a noise?). Anyway, the fan speed control failed within 24 hours of the first squeak.

Just for interest my Shuttle has now covered 267k miles. If any one needs help with the following, I might be able to help - because I had them all replaced;-

waterpump
oil cooler x 2
cam shaft and all followers
rear wheel bearings
auto gearbox (ouch!) at 205k
turbo
exhaust manifold
exhaust gas return valve
air mass flow meter
Particulates Filter (ouch again!) at 250k
O2 sensor
lower suspension bushes

But she still looks like new !!

Thanks again
Tony
hi, what were the symtoms of cam going?
 
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