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Brookster, my oil cooler has blown a hose off twice now after fitting a Mk3 filter. One came off the sandwich plate, fixed that then one blew off the cooler. What d'you reckons causing it, i was using jubilee's so going to change them for mikalors this weekend..
 
Discussion starter · #122 ·
There is plenty of room for the turbo. The intercooler pipes are a bit of an ar-se though. I'm running in 51mm and would say that is the limit for clearance from the turbo through the gearbox linkage area. On the cold side of the pipework I relocated the washer bottle and drilled a 60mm hole through the body to link up. I will try and get some pics up later. I should be up and running later on today and will hopefully have the exhaust made tomorrow. My EGT gauge still hasn't turned up after 10 days!:mad: So won't be able to set the fueling and boost until it arrives.
Excellent news T:

I've been too busy with my MK1 want to get racing next month so that has been priority
No1.

Will be good to see pix of the final install A:

Have you used the V70 Downpipe ? and had a section welded on.
 
Discussion starter · #123 ·
Brookster, my oil cooler has blown a hose off twice now after fitting a Mk3 filter. One came off the sandwich plate, fixed that then one blew off the cooler. What d'you reckons causing it, i was using jubilee's so going to change them for mikalors this weekend..

I used braided line with manufactured ends, wouldn't trust jubilees used them on one pipe.
 
It's alive!
Finally fired the van up this afternoon and all seems well. The boost gauge I bought won't work so I have wound the boost controller down until I get a new gauge fitted. I really need to know how to check the pump timing though as it's a little lumpy. Any ideas?
 
i have been following this thread with interest i reckon with the right setup you boys are gonna hammer us 2.5 brigade:ILU: no ecu no remap just bolt on a big turbo add shed loads of fuel hey presto big bhp...... the volvo turbo is good for 180bhp easy...... what are you doing about intercooling :ILU:
 
i have been following this thread with interest i reckon with the right setup you boys are gonna hammer us 2.5 brigade:ILU: no ecu no remap just bolt on a big turbo add shed loads of fuel hey presto big bhp...... the volvo turbo is good for 180bhp easy...... what are you doing about intercooling :ILU:
I don't think big power is ever going to be on the cards tbh as we haven't the luxury of direct injection. Modest gains could be had with a properly timed/fueled set up though. I have used a Ford Focus Tdi intercooler and front mounted it with custom made pipework and tee'd off the inlet manifold pipework for the wastegate vacuum. I really need to know how to set the fuel pump timing before I can report back on any increase though. Is there anywhere I can find this information out?:*
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Discussion starter · #129 ·
JON

ANY UPDATES.

Just been looking at fuelling and found this on LPG Injection of DERV Engines.

Simply stated, Propane (LPG) Fumigation is the introduction of gaseous propane into the air intake of a diesel engine for the purposes of attaining more power, economy, or both. The parallel is often made between fumigation and using Nitrous Oxide on gasoline vehicles to achieve a power increase. Basically, this analogy is correct, although the properly implemented use of LPG on a diesel engine will actually result in a better-running engine without the possible damaging effects that N2O has on gas motors.
Exhaust emissions are reduced as a result, with lower quantities of unburned hydrocarbons and fewer particulates (smoke). LPG fumigation will even clean up the odor of diesel fuel in the exhaust, making the smell from the tailpipe of an engine utilizing it much less objectionable.

How it works:

Introducing LPG gas into the combustion air intake of a diesel engine acts as an accelerant, promoting the even burning of the diesel fuel, and more complete combustion, resulting in more power being produced. Many web pages and forum posts will call LPG a "catalyst" but this is not correct, as LPG creates no change in the molecular makeup of either the air or the diesel fuel.
Propane by itself will not self-ignite inside a diesel-fuel compression-ignition engine. During the compression stroke, the air/LPG mixture is compressed and the temperature is raised to about 400?C, not enough to ignite the LPG, which has an ignition temperature of about 500?C. When the diesel fuel is atomized into the cylinder under high pressure, it immediately self-ignites (diesel ignites at about 385?C.), and causes the LPG to burn as well. Since the LPG is in mixture with the air, the flame front from the diesel spreads more quickly, and more completely, including igniting the air/fuel mixture which is in contact with the cylinder walls, which are cool in comparison to the super-heated air inside the combustion chamber. Much of the cleaner burning of the fuel is attributed to this ignition against the "cooler" components of the engine, and accounts for raising the percentage of combustion from a typical 75% for a well-tuned diesel engine running on pure diesel fuel alone, to 85-90% with the addition of LPG. Obviously, this more complete combustion also gives a nice boost in power, with an accompanying increase in fuel economy and reduction of pollutants.

What to Expect:

OK, here's where we have to draw a distinction between engine types. Normally-aspirated engines require different systems to introduce the gas than do turbocharged engines. The results are different as well.

Normally-aspirated (N/A) engines will realize only a modest gain in power by the use of LPG gas. Displacing 1% of the intake air with LPG will result in a small power increase, perhaps 5-8%. Nearly no increase in power will be noted at full throttle, assuming that your injection pump is correctly adjusted already. Attempting to provide more gas to the engine will not increase performance, and will in fact lead to a condition not unlike pre-ignition in a gasoline engine. This has been attributed to excessive peak pressure inside the combustion chamber, and may have a lot to do with the fact that most N/A engines are also IDI (Indirect Injection), which means that the diesel fuel is not injected directly into the combustion cylinder, but instead enters a "swirl chamber" where ignition takes place. The flame front then shoots out of the swirl chamber into the combustion chamber, where it combines with the air (and LPG) to force the piston down in a power stroke. Apparently, these engines have a problem in that the flame front exiting the swirl chamber ignites the LPG/air mixture, all of which burns instantly instead of in a metered, controlled manner as it would during the normal diesel injection window.
I have had satisfactory results on my VW 1.6 N/A engine when adding LPG at a rate of 8-10% of the BTU rating of the diesel the engine is using. It may be possible to turn the fuel up, but I do know for sure that too much fuel does not increase power, and causes the engine to make very unhappy noises.
It's worth noting that if you experience a big increase in power on a naturally-aspirated diesel engine after installing an LPG fumigation system, then you should go back and check to see that your injection pump was adjusted to provide a nearly stoicheometric air-to-fuel ratio at maximum throttle without the LPG turned on. It's possible that the significant power boost you are seeing is due to the engine now being adequately fueled for the first time. The additional BTU content of the LPG is simply being substituted for the diesel fuel that you haven't been injecting all along.

Turbocharged diesel engines are able to realize a significant increase in power by using LPG fumigation. While the usual suggested increase is considered to be approximately 20%, by careful management of the gas introduction, power gains of up to 40% are possible. My understanding is that it is a very fine line between lots of extra power and a dose of LPG that will render an engine scrap metal in a hurry, so consider carefully before you decide to "turn it up".
Turbo engines are by design blessed with a lean air-to-fuel ratio, and can be fed concentrations of LPG up to about 6-8% of the intake air volume. TDI (Turbo Direct Injection) engines have shown dramatic power increases when properly fumigated with LPG, combined with an "Upsolute" chip, or computer engine management upgrade. (Of course, these modifications will void any manufacturers warranties...)

link here -
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=3699.15;wap2
 
I really need to know how to set the fuel pump timing before I can report back on any increase though. Is there anywhere I can find this information out?

There is a thread on the Brickyard about this. Apparently the original timing marks are way off, some type of electronic pulse gauge is clipped onto the injector pipe for accurate adjustments. The results have been n/a 2.4's that will cruise at 80mph & pull uphill without losing steam :confused:
 
Discussion starter · #131 ·
I really need to know how to set the fuel pump timing before I can report back on any increase though. Is there anywhere I can find this information out?

There is a thread on the Brickyard about this. Apparently the original timing marks are way off, some type of electronic pulse gauge is clipped onto the injector pipe for accurate adjustments. The results have been n/a 2.4's that will cruise at 80mph & pull uphill without losing steam :confused:

i would put 8 deg advance on it to start with, thats what is says in the old US guide to Turboing a NASP Rabbits T:

this will increase poor and reduce EGT's

Shame you havn't got Wideband fitted to monitor the AFR's , just fitted it on my Golf mite get an LC-1 Kits for the T4.
 
Not alot to update really. I have been using another van for work which is where I seem to be spending most of my time. I have sent the injectors away for reconditioning and will get them back Tuesday. Tuesday evening the van will have the timing set with a strobe. It's suggested that it will be best to set it at 0.55mm opposed to 1.00mm for the AJA engine. The exhaust has been made and fitted at a cost of a very unreasonable ÂŁ550:eek: Just looking into air intake lengths but if I'm completely honest I'm seriously wondering whether it's all been worth it. I feel it would have been more sensible to just fit a more modern engine. However, that said I drove down the road with a nice burble, plenty of turbo spool up noise and a nice bit of wastegate chatter that turned a few heads which made me grin a little. (ChavH:)

I will let you know when it's running at my desired settings whether it's all worth it or not.:*
 
After spending a fortune, I have resorted to finding scrap from around the house to finish this project including chicken wire for the intercooler mesh and a drain pipe 45deg. fitting for an air intake. Pictured below. I have coupled the other side of it to a length of 60mm silicone hose that runs directly upto the airfilter for a good cold air feed.
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Right, I haven't updated for a while. Mainly because I haven't used it for a while but the van is up and running and has been for a short time and all is good. The only issue I have been having is that a couple of the intercooler pipes keep blowing off, so I am having them modified on Tuesday for bigger roll beads to take the boost better. I intend to have it set up at 1.0Bar -1.1Bar on the rolling road which is booked in for 10.00AM Friday morning. Anyone care to have a guess on what it might be running?

2.4D standard bottom end.
Rebuilt head with ported inlet and exhaust runners.
Ported inlet and exhaust manifolds.
3 angle valve seats.
Std. 22:1 compression ratio.
Injectors reconditioned and set to 155Bar pressure.
Front mounted intercooler.
1.0Bar - 1.1Bar boost.
Fuelling set to run clean on full throttle.

I would be happy with 114BHP upwards. The rolling road I use isn't flattering and tends to give realistic figures so don't go mad with your guesses. It started life with 74BHP, 197,000 miles ago.T:
 
Discussion starter · #136 ·
Good work Jon T:

Had my hands full with my other projects so i havn't made any progress. Very good work of you to take the bull by the horns and complete yours.

Whats your EGT's ? are you going to advance the injection timing and see if the EGT's come down.
 
Good work Jon T:
Whats your EGT's ? are you going to advance the injection timing and see if the EGT's come down.
I am still playing with timing at the minute. I am also having boost issues again. I'm not sure whether I have a leak from taking off and refitting the intercooler pipes or it's in some way correlated to the amount of pump advance as I altered this at the same time. I was able to achieve 1.3Bar peak boost but am only getting 0.7Bar at best. Another flaw to the volvo turbo is that there is no actutor rod to adjust so if it does turn out to be timing relative, the amount of boost you want to run may have to be determined by the amount of advance you have, which isn't ideal as anything over 4 deg. causes the engine to clatter. Anything over 6deg. caused difficult starting aswell. Let's hope I have a leak. I'm no longer sure what amount of advance I have as I have given up with DTI's and strobes and am finding it easier by ear. As for EGT's they are obviously fluctuating alot with each setting. Once I have an overall good set up I will give you stable figures. I will find out more towards the weekend including actual horsepower.
 
Just for your interest regarding timing. You can see that with 5 deg. advance over standard how much quicker the engine picks up when the revs are increasing. The red line is with advanced timing and the green line is standard timing. I have reachieved boost of 1.2 Bar peak although fuelling won't allow me to hold it without boost enrichment so power is dropping off way too early and subsequently stopping me from achieving higher peak power figures. I'm at 138.4BHP so far. When funds and time permit I will have a pump modified with boost enrichment and do more testing on both pump timing and cam timing. It has been suggested that with a vernier on the cam pulley it may be possible to achieve another 10BHP with the correct correlation between fuel and cam timing. Assumably increasing the cam timing but he lost me with the formulae.I:
With boost holding I should be over 150BHP. With cam and pump timing my goal is 160bhp which I'm sure I can get close to if not hit but that's for the future.;)

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