Steps 1 – 6 are similar to the steps in my How To for the top ball joints.
1. Chock the wheels, pop a jack under the jacking point, remove the wheel bolts (19mm socket), slip an axle stand under the lower wishbone and then release the jack to settle the weight onto the axle stand.
![Image]()
2. Bit of WD40 on the 21mm nut that holds on the shock absorber lower end, socket on one end and spanner on the other end, then knock out the bolt. Removing the shock attachment at this stage makes it easier to sort step 3.
![Image]()
3. Prep time. The upper wishbone needs to be wedged against the subframe in the marked area. Don’t mistakenly try to wedge it against the lower wishbone as this doesn’t work… Wedging lets the lower wishbone drop, whilst the top one stays still, lifting the upper ball joint out of its housing. Problem is, to do this, you need a thin bit of something strong.
![Image]()
4. Step up an old bolster chisel and an angle grinder. I ground the top edge flat and took a wedge out of the lower edge where it sits against the subframe.
![Image]()
5. I’ve read of others jacking the hub with the van staying stationery on axle stands but I did it the other way. It just seemed easier. To get the chisel in place you need to drop the body (or raise the hub if jacking that) and position the chisel. Raise the body slowly until it nips the chisel securely between the subframe and upper wishbone and hold it there.
![Image]()
6. Slotted in place nicely
![Image]()
7. With that done, next step is to undo the 24mm nut attaching the bottom joint to the lower control arm. (Pic is taken from underneath.)
![Image]()
8. Remove the two bolts that hold the lower ball joint to the hub. On my 1993 they're 16mm normal plain hex headed bolts but in tiggerjpt's how to replace the outer CV joint (http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=176893) they are 14mm XZN. They changed from 1997 on according to the Bentley manual.
![Image]()
9. Never heard of XZN? Nor had I – I thought they were just Torx but they have more splines. XZN on the left, Torx on the right in the pic below.
![Image]()
10. Next step is to push the joint out of the control arm. Step forward the Screwfix puller (No. 48634, 2 or 3 leg reversible gear puller) for £17.99.
![Image]()
11. Use with 3 legs. It’s a bit tight to put in the leg next to the brake disc splash shield (RHS of the picture) but with the ball joint bolts removed it should all shift ok. The only problem was that the central spigot of the puller rather neatly fits inside the hex head on the bottom of the ball joint you’re removing (circled). Add a bit of grease to the end to assist it to turn and it’ll push it out in the end.
![Image]()
12. I had to haul down the lower control arm to get out the old joint. New VW part is 701407361B costing £32.66 + VAT in July 2012.
![Image]()
13. I used a bar (red in the pic) to lever down the lower control arm in order to fit the new joint. Note that the lug on the joint (circled) goes towards the middle of the vehicle.
![Image]()
14. New bolts are required for refitting: VW part is 2 X N10170513 @ £0.78 + VAT each. If you're doing a post 1997 vehicle the XZN bolts also need replaced.
Tighten hex bolts to 55Nm + 90 deg extra turn. Later XZN bolts are tightened to 90Nm + 90 deg extra.
![Image]()
15. Tighten nut to 110Nm – apparently no need to replace. On post 1997 vans the nut should be replaced, and tightened to 60Nm + 90 deg extra. Not quite sure post 1997 nut has to be replaced and pre 97 not...
![Image]()
16. Wheel back on – tighten bolts to 160Nm or 118 ft/lb - and you’re done.
If it all seems like too much faff then my local VW Van Centre (Edinburgh) replaced one for £42 + VAT labour.
1. Chock the wheels, pop a jack under the jacking point, remove the wheel bolts (19mm socket), slip an axle stand under the lower wishbone and then release the jack to settle the weight onto the axle stand.
2. Bit of WD40 on the 21mm nut that holds on the shock absorber lower end, socket on one end and spanner on the other end, then knock out the bolt. Removing the shock attachment at this stage makes it easier to sort step 3.
3. Prep time. The upper wishbone needs to be wedged against the subframe in the marked area. Don’t mistakenly try to wedge it against the lower wishbone as this doesn’t work… Wedging lets the lower wishbone drop, whilst the top one stays still, lifting the upper ball joint out of its housing. Problem is, to do this, you need a thin bit of something strong.
4. Step up an old bolster chisel and an angle grinder. I ground the top edge flat and took a wedge out of the lower edge where it sits against the subframe.
5. I’ve read of others jacking the hub with the van staying stationery on axle stands but I did it the other way. It just seemed easier. To get the chisel in place you need to drop the body (or raise the hub if jacking that) and position the chisel. Raise the body slowly until it nips the chisel securely between the subframe and upper wishbone and hold it there.
6. Slotted in place nicely
7. With that done, next step is to undo the 24mm nut attaching the bottom joint to the lower control arm. (Pic is taken from underneath.)
8. Remove the two bolts that hold the lower ball joint to the hub. On my 1993 they're 16mm normal plain hex headed bolts but in tiggerjpt's how to replace the outer CV joint (http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=176893) they are 14mm XZN. They changed from 1997 on according to the Bentley manual.
9. Never heard of XZN? Nor had I – I thought they were just Torx but they have more splines. XZN on the left, Torx on the right in the pic below.
10. Next step is to push the joint out of the control arm. Step forward the Screwfix puller (No. 48634, 2 or 3 leg reversible gear puller) for £17.99.
11. Use with 3 legs. It’s a bit tight to put in the leg next to the brake disc splash shield (RHS of the picture) but with the ball joint bolts removed it should all shift ok. The only problem was that the central spigot of the puller rather neatly fits inside the hex head on the bottom of the ball joint you’re removing (circled). Add a bit of grease to the end to assist it to turn and it’ll push it out in the end.
12. I had to haul down the lower control arm to get out the old joint. New VW part is 701407361B costing £32.66 + VAT in July 2012.
13. I used a bar (red in the pic) to lever down the lower control arm in order to fit the new joint. Note that the lug on the joint (circled) goes towards the middle of the vehicle.
14. New bolts are required for refitting: VW part is 2 X N10170513 @ £0.78 + VAT each. If you're doing a post 1997 vehicle the XZN bolts also need replaced.
Tighten hex bolts to 55Nm + 90 deg extra turn. Later XZN bolts are tightened to 90Nm + 90 deg extra.
15. Tighten nut to 110Nm – apparently no need to replace. On post 1997 vans the nut should be replaced, and tightened to 60Nm + 90 deg extra. Not quite sure post 1997 nut has to be replaced and pre 97 not...
16. Wheel back on – tighten bolts to 160Nm or 118 ft/lb - and you’re done.
If it all seems like too much faff then my local VW Van Centre (Edinburgh) replaced one for £42 + VAT labour.
. There's a lot of force with the torsion bar acting on such a short lever and I'm glad I wasn't touching anything at the time. I find all my fingers quite useful.
