[pd2h]

Cracking build, great skills mate cant wait to see more!! A:

 

[TURK]

Hi all,

In this 'chapter' I will concentrate on my roof console.

The first thing I had to do was to workout the positioning of my monitor, as it will double up as a rear view mirror, as I've built a bulkhead, with door closed I'll have no visibility out back. >>

Now that I have my dimensions and correct angles, I can cut out my two sides. >>

A quick test fit shows how well it fits. Like everything else, it has to be a snug fit. Any movement and it will vibrate.
Nothing worse than those little squeaks while you're driving. >>

With my cab headlining back in position I marked out where the cuts had to go. This is critical, you only have one shot at this, get it wrong .....
and your headlining will be useless. >>

Now that I have my cut mark marked out, and I know which side of the line I'm supposed to cut to. Cause there's nothing worse, making a nice clean cut only to find out you've cut the wrong side of the line ......... it's been done before I: >>

It's kinda nerve wracking cutting up a perfectly good headlining, using a good steel straight edge, and that's one side done. >>

Headlining back in, and ready for roof console to be installed. >>

Here's where I'm at with the console. The design is set at an angle as I can view everything from my driving position without leaning over to see whats what. The switch panel is also at an angle for easy access. >>

These are the switches I'll be using. I tend to stick to blue LED's as 'indicators' for auxiliary equipment ON, like the headunit or interior lights ( you can hear the music and see the lights are on, so they're 'indicators' ). Red LED's however are for 'Warning' circuits ON ( like fog lights or my amp for instance, as those could be left ON accidentally ). Cardboard mock-up of the switch panel, the switch guards were very difficult to get hold of, in fact I had to get from a aeronautical place in the states. You don't want to be banging your head against all these switches ! >>

After re-jigging things around a little, I managed to fit six switches on the panel, meaning five switch guards. The positioning would have to be accurate to the millimeter. As anything that is lit and out of line, is all to obvious. >>

To avoid 'the wondering drill bit' syndrome, I started the hole with a very sharp bradle. >>

OK, so that's the holes drilled for the aluminium switch guards. Next up is to drill the 12mm hole for mounting the switches >>

So that's the first one done. >>

And from the back of the switch panel. >>

Really starting to look like something now. Six switches, should be enough to accommodate all those extra gizmo's I'm going get >>

And from the back ....... I like neatness ! >>

A quick assembly to see what the console would look like >>

Roof console in situ. The plan for running the wires is well under way. The blue cable and the yellow one coming from the bulkhead, are for my headunit switching, as my headunit is powered via my leisure battery. Directly to the right of those two cables there's a dark blue cable with a red splice connector on, that's just a test lead, for testing the earth on the switch. As it's the return to earth that makes the LED in the switch light up. >>

As cool blue LED switches are very bright, I'll have to tone them down a bit as it's illegal to drive at night in some countries with the interior light on. Originally I was going to use resistors, but I would have to test various resistors to find one I was happy with. But what if you changed your mind and wanted the LED a tad brighter !? ....... you'd have to de-solder that resistor, and install a new one. The alternative is a potentiometer, it's a 'variable' resistor. So I bought a PC fan controller, with the intension of taking it apart for the potentiometers. When it arrived, I had a cunning plan to mount the whole thing in one of the panels ......... here's what I came up with. >>

Here's what the completed roof console would look like, viewed from my driving position. >>

I decided I would solder the earth connections to the pots, as oposed to using the PC plugs, as it uses a 5v connection for the LED's on the fan controller. I then tested the pots with a multimeter, a rise and full of the voltage on the meter tells me they're suitable for dimming the switch LED's. >>

So that's another stage done, for the time being. Next up ....... covering the headlining with grey suede.







TURK

 

[TURK]

Hi all,

I this chapter I'm going to be applying the finishing touches to my cab roof. I decided to go for grey faux suede for the roof lining. It seems the obvious choice as my bucket seats are black and grey. It also breaks up the colour a little.

I've seen in previous threads the original poster tearing up the cloth from the headlining card. As gluing anything to that surface is quite difficult as it's so porous. I believe in doing a job well, which means I only do it once. As you don't want the fabric coming off in a couple of months. As I didn't want to strip the original VW fabric and the sponge material I did it this way ......

Firstly I sprayed the entire surface of the fabric with hair spray. Loads of it ! when it dries it leaves a solid layer. Should be fine for gluing. It also gives extra adhesion to the glue. >>

I love the look and feel of this stuff, even though it's fake it's almost like the real thing. At varying angles it sometimes looks like silver, brush it one way, and it'll look dark grey, almost black. I'd like to use it everywhere, but it's too light weight for that, but it's ideal for roof lining, as up there there's no heavy wear involved, on the plus side its also very light. >>

As mentioned earlier I don't use spray on adhesives, I prefer the brush on method. I'm using Evo-Stick that's an instant bond, so after you've brushed it on, you wait till the surface of the adhesive goes tacky or milky in colour. I decided I wouldn't use the vacuum bagging technique as that seems too much faffing about for me. So I rolled the suede fabric in heavy plastic sheeting. I applied the glue in six inch bands, waited for it to go milky then rolled the plastic out patting down the fabric as I went along. >>

If you did it loosely you should be able to pat it down into the curves of the headlining. leave it for a few days before the next stage >>

I think like paint, glue has to 'harden' before you attempt to cut it. So with my scalpel I made some 'incisions' ! >>

And the final product ....... just like factory finish ! >>

Now that I know that my roof console idea will work, running cabling won't be an issue, and I've design the panels to be removed like service hatches, so I can add circuits without having to remove the entire console from the roof. I'll finally cover that also. Originally I wanted to flock it black. But that would mean sending it to the UK as nobody does flocking in Jersey. So I decided i would have to use black fabric. The first stage however was to cover the MDF with baize, this will give it a softer feel. I've allowed for these extra few millimeters on my headlining. >>

I can't fold the surplus baize inward as that would make the internal dimensions slightly narrower. So I just trimmed the edges off. >>

With both outer side of the console covered with black baize, all I have to do now is cover it with material. My choice of material here was disastrous, any cut what so ever and it frayes horribly. >>

Not liking the DIY look, ie, edges where two pieces of fabric meet. Plus with wear and tear, those two ends are sure to peel back. Making the whole job look nasty. So somehow, I had to do it in one piece. Another head scratching moment ..... but it's doable ! >>

Next stage is covering the switch panels and service hatches. I quickly realised that using this type of fabric would cause problems. The thing you have to consider is, the constant removal of the panels. There was only one option ........ spray the panels matt black. I'd already had very good results on my dashboard and door cards. But how would Plasti-Kote react to wood !? >>

I didn't have any varnish about the place, so I spray painted with primer. I was quite surprised to see that the MDF hadn't soaked up the paint as I though it would. So I put a couple more layers on. >>

I put about six coats of matt black Plasti-Kote on, sanding in between coats. It looks shiny in the picture as it's still wet. But when it dried it was matt black just like a blackboard. >>

Getting ready for the final assembly. >>

Headlining in and supported by 'L' brackets on the inside. If I need to remove the headlining for what ever reason, it's the usual clips above the doors and console supports are velcro. >>

headlining now properly secured and the cab plastics back in place. >>

On rainy days when you can't do any work on your van outside, you can always concentrate on your electronics projects.
Today I'll prepare the earths for all the LED switches. Pretty straight forward really. >>

This is a typical example of what I was saying about service hatches on the console panels. Ease of access. I'm now free to tinker around and run cables and wires. So all the preparation to get to this stage had been worth while. >>

Currently I only have two running circuits on the switch panel. The headunit can be turned ON/OFF with switch#1 and the rear lights that are LED fitments wired via a voltage regulator is switched by #2.
I'm currently testing various cameras that may be suitable for my rear view mirror. That's to follow. >>

Hope you all enjoyed the thread, there's plenty more to follow.
And hopefully somebody will find something useful.



Thanks





TURK

 

[Jay.32]

wow.. that looks amazing... very good work mate.. T:

 

[TURK]

Thanks Jay T:

It's starting to look like the space shuttle

I do like my gizmo's


Loads more to upload yet. I'm sure there's something for everybody. If nothing is to your taste yet.
If it helps a forum member out, then the build thread will have served it's purpose.

Plus I've got everything documented in one place.




Cheers guys T:




TURK

 

[BitterandTwisted]

Love this so far Turk , well done A:

Your patience,dedication and attention to detail is totally OCD ! ....but you are a man after my own heart T:

The bulkhead curves are subtle yet a beautiful touch of class .

I am now officially an avid subscriber to this build thread, top job and Keep up the good work .

P.S. i shall be stealing any ideas that i like and think i can actually reproduce without ballsing them up

 

[TURK]

Love this so far Turk , well done A:

Your patience,dedication and attention to detail is totally OCD ! ....but you are a man after my own heart T:

The bulkhead curves are subtle yet a beautiful touch of class .

I am now officially an avid subscriber to this build thread, top job and Keep up the good work .

P.S. i shall be stealing any ideas that i like and think i can actually reproduce without ballsing them up

Hi mate,

Well, thanks very much ..... and thanks for subscribing to the thread ....... you're guaranteed not to miss a thing


Please 'steal' anything you like T:

If it were a big secret, I wouldn't of posted it here for all to see !



See you in the next chapter .......



Cheers mate.



TURK

 

[chezzy71]

this looks like its going to be interesting...

 

[Kieran]

A:

Love it!

Hooked now.. Great build so far and some nice idea's T:

 

[michaeltazhills]

Hi Turk. Loving the space shuttle look and the attention to detail. All good things take time. If you ever cross the water to Guernsey let us know and will try to get together.

 

[nicklouse]

Turk.

One comment on the control of the LEDs. If you knock the pots can you not turn off the LED making it useless? Or does it not go all the way to off?

 

[TURK]

Turk.

One comment on the control of the LEDs. If you knock the pots can you not turn off the LED making it useless? Or does it not go all the way to off?

Hi mate,

PC fan controllers are linear potentiometers as far as I know, very much like a dimmer switch but without the switch part.
As you wouldn't want to turn of your PC fans off completely.




I'm not often in your neck of the woods michaeltazhills, but if Lulu and I are ever over in Guernsey, I'll be sure to look you up.

Cheers mate T:




TURK

 

[TURK]

Hi all,


In my mind one of the best 'updates' and most visually appealing mods you could ever do to your van, is to repaint the cab area of your van. Reading many threads on the forum, I can see that a lot of people want to do it, but are afraid to because of what might be involved. Let me tell you, it is much easier than you think.

Firstly, disconnect your battery ( batteries, if you have a leisure battery ) with no power, there's absolutely no chance of damaging anything or harming yourself. I would recommend having a decent compact camera, take photos as you go along, the pictures will come in handy when you start reassembling things. You don't need a gang of guys to help out, just yourself, set an entire day aside for the project and take your time. There's nothing worse than racing through a job as you need to reassemble everything by 5 PM !

There are a couple of very good ' dashboard removal how to's ' on the forum that show you where all the screws are, I can't show you the pics I took as most of my photos got corrupted when I had a PC harddrive crash last year.


By nature I have an inquisitive mind, so I try to find out what I'm up against, so seeing these pictures is your first step in your discovery. There's nothing unusual behind that dashboard, just wires and plugs. The plugs ( or sockets ) are modular, very much like the connectors you get in a PC. So it's impossible to fit a square plug in a round hole I:

On the plus side, there are no special tools required. Socket set ( to remove the nut on the steering wheel ) an allun key to remove the 'Jesus nut' ( the one under the bonnet ) and a long shaft philips screw driver. I also use wooden shims, like lollipop sticks, as I prefer to prise things out with wood rather than flat blade screw drivers that damage the plastics.

This is what I managed to document, hopefully it's enough to get you started ....... Please note: This 'how-to' is based on my 2003 2.5 TDi very early models will have different electrics. But the dashboard should be the same.


Begin by removing dash plastics, fuse box cover and steering wheel >>

The cowling around the steering column is in two parts, top and bottom, top half, nothing in it, bottom half is clipped on and had the OBD connection plug in it. If you have no ECU you won't have this diagnostic socket. >>

OBD plug just unclips, there's quite a few plastic clips, be gentle with them, or they'll break ! >>

A friendly word of warning here, when you remove your steering wheel don't remove the retaining nut completely.
I've heard of some guys smacking themselves in the mouth when it suddenly becomes free. Undo it a fair distance and wobble the steering wheel from side to side in a push pull fashion. >>

Removing the dash speaker covers turned out to be a mare, as I had no idea of the arrangement of the clips underneath. In fact, I managed to break the clip on the right. You have to put your your finger nails under the left side of the cover and pull hard, it's almost as thought it's hindged on the right side. If I were to do this job again, I would leave them in place as there are no screws holding the dash in place beneath them. >>

The nearside air vent, these you do have to remove as there are screws behind the vents. Spin it all the way round, you'll then be able to see the clip arrangement. >>

A close up of the other side shows this side is different, it's like a circlip, and you have to pull forward to undo it. >>

When I managed to unclip the left side, I had to rotate the whole assembly back round in order to pull it forward to undo the right hand side. >>

Then it simply comes away. There's no reason why you couldn't do jobs like this days before. Removing dash parts like speaker grills would give you more time on project day. >>

Here's a much better shot of the dashboard retaining screw behind the offside air vent. >>

Before attempting to remove your light control switch, I would say remove the dashboard clocks binnacle first.
You'll then be able to prise the switch out. >>

Now they're undone they're ready to be removed. >>

What it looks like behind. The brown multi-way connector sitting in the whole is the light switch control plug. There's nothing else behind there, apart from the cold air feeder pipe that goeas to the vent. I also learned a valuable lesson here ...... If you do this procedure before the speaker grill removal procedure farther up the page, you can disconnect your speakers, and unclip the speaker covers without breaking the clips off them, as you can get your hand inside and do it from the interior. >>

This is another one of those little jobs you could do a few days before the event. Nothing crucial behind there that'll effect the day to day running of your van. Unless the previous owner moved the hazard warning switch such as in mine. >>

There are four self tappers in the top section that screw into metal clips, and only two that hold the footing in place. >>

These pictures aren't in the order that I disassembled my dash, but here's another job that could be done before the event. Nothing crucial behind the glove box. The only electrical bit in here is the tiny glove box lamp. Just pull the fuse out before disconnecting it. Or if you're doing this on project day, then your battery is already disconnected anyway, so just unplug the light fitting. >>

The heater control switches are purely mechanical. No need to disassemble it any further. Just secure it somewhere with tie tags. >>

This is the allun bolt fitting under the bonnet. I've heard it referred to as the 'Jesus nut' I can see why ........ Jesus ! that's where it is. This is the last bolt that holds your dashboard in place. Once you've removed it, you should be able to move your dashboard. >>

If you've found and removed all the screws on the inside of the cab. Your dashboard will begin to lift out out. The only thing left to do is to disconnect the clips that hold the heater pipes in place. Then your are free to lift the entire dash out. >>

All those big red connectors that connect to your steering column and indicator stalks are different sizes. So when it comes to reconnecting, it's impossible to get them wrong. >>

Now that your dash is out, spend a little bit of time sussing out what's what. Just familiarise yourself where things are and what they do. >>

You'll soon discover that there's not a great deal to it as I did. >>

Right from the beginning you should of treated your project as 'phases', now that 'phase 1' is complete ..... ie, you got your dashboard out. I've got my dashboard in a secure place, now I'll begin to reassemble my 'dash' for driveability. While things are still fresh in your mind start by reconnecting the essentials that are required for your van to function. >>

As I mentioned earlier in the thread, I lost a lot of pictures. So unfortunately I can't show you the makeshift dash I made out of cardboard. But with everything reconnected, and various things secured back in place using tie tags, it was driveable.


In the next chapter we'll be prepping the dash for painting.

And I'll show you a couple of pics that I managed to recover from my harddrive that show the minimum equipment requirements for driving.


See you then.



TURK

 

[TURK]

Hi all,


In the previous post I spent best part of a day removing all my plastics, and removing my dashboard that actually turned out much easier than I had thought. My van drives just the way it did before I removed my dash. Just don't get pulled over by the law, as I'm pretty sure they wouldn't be too impressed !

I can't stress enough also, just don't get involved in an accident, as your dashboard is there for your protection.

OK, so to the next 'phase'.


Now that I have my dashboard out, there are a few things to remove from it before the cleaning process. Namely the plastic assembly in the center that holds all your switches, radio mounting aperture, ashtray and cigarette lighter fitting. >>

A couple of months ago some rogue broke into my van and nicked my headunit, in doing so he damaged the mounting points that hold the headunit mounting plate in place. So I got the insurance company to buy me a new one. The new one is on the left. >>

This shot shows from the inside of the dash and what can only be described as the choke cable on petrol models, on some models it's blanked out. It's located to the right of the steering wheel, directly above the fuse box cover. You will need to unclip this and spray it with the other small bits, like the fuse box cover, handle glove box and glove box cover. >>

This is what it looks like with everything taken off. Don't forget the vents on top of the dash. >>

On the interior of the dash you'll find fire resistant dampening material, as it's clipped in with metal fasteners onto plastic posts, best leave that alone, you'll only end up breaking them off to remove it. So I'll just mask that area off, as I don't want to get it wet or covered in spray paint. >>

As I'll be washing and spray painting the dash, I need to protect this material. So I just masked it off with a sheet of plastic and masking tape. >>

Masking tape wasn't up to the job as there seems to be some sort of layer of silicon or polish on the plastic. I had better success with packing tape. Now I can get cleaning. >>

A good quality finish on any job is the correct preparation, so I trimmed any defects I found. >>

With a variety of different brushes I began the washing process. The best degreaser I found was sugar soap, painters and decorators use it. >>

After the first thorough wash and scrub with various brushes and scotch cleaning pads, the dash turned a sickly pale grey ! A sure sign of what ever covering VW had put on it was gone for ever. >>

Viewed from the front ...... not a pretty sight. It even feels different. As sugar soap is crystaline based, this could well be the result of crystals drying. So I washed and re-washed with clean water, only to get the same result. Conclusion, I had degreased my dashboard thoroughly. In my opinion if you don't get this step right, or don't do it thoroughly enough, it won't matter how well you apply the paint ..... it's just won't stick ! resulting in paint peeling or easy scratching of the dash at a later date. >>

After a very careful inspection, viewed from all angles, I identified scratches and gouges and simply sanded them out. I would apply the paint thickly in those areas as a filler. >>

I then rubbed it down with methylated spirits. >>

As I wasn't sure if Methylated Spirits contained a creasy agent in it, I washed and scrubbed down my dash again. Make sure you get into the corners, as this is where the paint will have the tendency to flake or peel further down the line. >>

I envy people who have garages, but sometimes you have to make do with what you have. So a nice warm sunny day is definitely required. A cordoned off garden spray booth is also a must, as you don't want wind when you're spraying. One of the things I learned early on was, in order for good results when you're spraying, everything must be warm. I even warmed the spray cans in front of a radiator before using them. I left the dashboard in the sun for a while also, as the plastic will warm up. When it was thoroughly dry and warm, it went back to that sickly grey colour. >>

When I applied my first coat of plasti-kote primer, I sprayed it on thickly 8 - 10 inches away. I knew I would be rubbing it down when it dried, so paint runs aren't a problem it this stage. >>

Viewed from the front ...... it doesn't look so sickly anymore. >>

I positioned the dash on a cardboard box so I could spray from all angles, including beneath. Making sure I really got into those corners also. >>

Close up of offside dash corner. >>

I wanted to keep the 'skin' porous finish to the dash. Too many thick coats would make the dash a smooth finish. Not the effect I was after. >>

After three coats of primer and leaving each coat dry before applying the next one, I rubbed the whole thing down thoroughly.
I didn't want to use sand paper or glass paper as it would of been too harsh. I'd probably end up removing the coats off primer I had just spent the last hour or so spraying on. So a scotch pad was ideal. >>

Without going totally nuts over it, I rubbed all over right into to crevices using the edge of the scotch pad. >>

Once all the rubbing down was done, I hoovered the entire dash as it was now covered in a very fine dust. >>

With my Matt Black Plasti-Kote spray paint can nice and warm. I proceeded to spray fine 'mists' of black paint. Rather than two or three thick coats of paint, I decided I would do six to eight very light coats. This is what it looked like after a few thin coats. >>

Close inspection of how the paint application is going. >>

Not leaving any corner untouched. >>

It's the small details that count. >>

Spraying in a continuous motion isn't easy if you're not use to it. I've not sprayed anything as large as this before, so I'm learning as I go along. It's obvious if you stay in one area for too long ..... the surface goes shiny ! >>

I have to admit, I'm liking this Plasti-Kote. And the matt black is making the dash look very nice indeed ........ so far, very pleased with the results. >>

A few more light coats of spray paint, it's beginning to look patchy ! that's my spraying techniques I'm afraid. As I'm not a professional, I would have to work on that. Just so long as the finished article doesn't look like this, I'll be happy. >>

Another quality control test, in case I missed anything. Another thing you'll discover when spraying, I don't know whether this is true when using other colours, but it's difficult to see where you've already sprayed ! >>

Standing further away certainly helps to identify those 'iffy' areas. I'll have to do something about that. I'm currently up to six coats now, so I only have a couple left to remedy that overall finish. >>

Even after it dried it still didn't look right. >>

The patches were because I was spraying too close ! ..... standing further back with a faster back and forth motion seemed to be working. >>

Look how black it is now ! ....... some areas appear to be shiny, that's because they were still wet when I took the picture. >>

We didn't have a particularly fantastic summer in 2011, but that particular weekend it soared to 30 degrees. So the back of my van was the ideal place for the dash to 'cure'. I'm by no means an expert but it's obvious to me that the paint has to harden. This is the reason that 'weekend modders' get it wrong, and within a few months their dashboards start looking terrible. >>

I decided I would leave it in the back of the van to 'cure' till the following weekend, when I would reassemble everything. I still had the use of my van on a daily basis as I had reassembled my 'makeshift' dash. >>

In order to hide my 'makeshift' dash from prying eyes ( namely, the buys in blue ) I covered everything with black fabric on the top of the dash. >>

Everything was secured using cable ties. >>

I hope you find this guide informative, as a 'Plasti-Kote' your interior how-to, I can only say It worked for me. As 2 years down the line, it's still as it was back then. There's been a lot of speculation on the longevity of plasti-kote sprayed interiors, I can certainly vouch for it's durability. As for the cost of the whole operation, about a dozen cans @ £7.00 each, so £ 84.00

Should the dash become too shabby in the next few years, I'll get it flocked in black, and I'll have a nice base colour to work from.



I hope I've talked you into doing your dashboard, with summer just round the corner ...... now's your chance



TURK

 

[nicklouse]

Hi mate,

PC fan controllers are linear potentiometers as far as I know, very much like a dimmer switch but without the switch part.
As you wouldn't want to turn of your PC fans off completely.
TURK

sorry you miss the point. you can turn the LEDs down to such a level that you can not see them so they then dont do the waring job. you just have dials to over ride the warning lights

 

[TURK]

Hi mate,

If I read you correctly ..... No the LED doesn't go out completely when you turn the pot down.
The potentiometer at it's maximum is equal to the LED's brightest, by turning the pot down you half the amount of light, turn the pot down again, and you half that amount of light. But the LED indicator will not got out completely as it's still connected to earth.

Is that what you mean ?



TURK

 

[parkyPig]

what a stunning build.....T:

 

[bazlightbeer]

Probably the most interesting build thread I've seen, well done fella

 

[TURK]

Probably the most interesting build thread I've seen, well done fella

Hi mate,

Thanks for that mate, very much appreciated ....... it makes uploading the images and writing the article well worth while with appreciative comments like that. T:

I try to be very descriptive in everything I do, after all, what good is a 'how to guide' if no one understands what's going on.


I've got loads of helpful information gathered up from two years of tinkering on and in my van. Some stuff already discussed many times on this forum, but with my own twist as I tend to do things differently.

So plenty more interesting stuff to follow.



Glad you liked it T:




TURK

 

[michaeltazhills]

Looks very good.T: Would really like to know what camera you went for for your reversing camera. At the moment I am using a cctv camera that I had laying around. The viewing angle is not wide enough. Seen some reversing cameras on the net, just trying to decide witch to go for. Looking forward to the next installment to the build.