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T:

Our intention is to use the van all year round so we need to hedge our bets against the weather. Living outside is fine when the weather is kind - however wet, windy and freezing cold in a Norwegian summer or out of season elsewhere and we tend to stay in the warm and dry.

We intend to use ours all year round, most of the time in the winter we are on our own and as there are only the two of us space isn't an issue for us in bad weather. Whenever we have been to Norway in the summer we've been really lucky with the weather the time we did Nordkapp (well Knivskjellodden we weren't paying the ridiculous prise to cross the barrier) we had three weeks of mid 20s :D We are planning a winter Scandinavia trip to see the Northern lights and we still have the southern part of Finland to checkout.
 

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Discussion Starter #162
We did the Notdkapp in August last year, we have done Norway before. It wasn’t as pricey as we expected except the visitor centre - but it had to be done. We stopped in Alta for a couple of nights and the weather was nice, high teens, but further south it wasn’t good. Tomso, Lofoten, Trondheim, Bergen the weather was not good although we had a few nice days by the lake in Lillehammer.
 

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We really enjoyed the Lofoten islands, canoeing around the beautiful beaches was one of the highlights for us, the rock paintings at Alta were also very interesting, fishing at Saltstraumen was also quite an experience :eek: Did you get to drive the Trollstigen? We didn't find Norway that expensive to live in but it was the amount of ferries and toll roads that made it expensive, that is one of the reasons we wanted a sub 6m van. We did feel that Norway was very touristy in as much as they are constantly trying to sell every area as the best this or that, it's such a fantastic country that they don't need to do that :D We actually preferred Sweden and Finland as there were less camper vans and plenty of places to canoe and hike with no one else around.
 

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I've got the same Hafele lights, just letting you know that they put out quite a bit of heat, i was quite surprised, i may have to look at adding a timber trim around them, as i can see it melting the carpet on my roof

Also are you looking at adding a mid support for the electrical area floor, as you might find a bit of deflection over that span.

enjoying the build T:
 

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Discussion Starter #165
I've got the same Hafele lights, just letting you know that they put out quite a bit of heat, i was quite surprised, i may have to look at adding a timber trim around them, as i can see it melting the carpet on my roof

Also are you looking at adding a mid support for the electrical area floor, as you might find a bit of deflection over that span.

enjoying the build T:
Hi Bryn

We used Loox on the T6 where they were fitted in ply faced with vinyl cloth and scrim without a problem. Might have helped that most of the time they were dimmed? This time most of them will be going into timber cabinetry apart from a few in the roof, again headlining, scrim and ply. Once again they will all be on a 4 channel dimmer.

The floor panel is 18mm resin faced ply so should be sound, seems like it so far with my 95kg :), although I do have a mid support if need be.

WE are "enjoying" it too but we will be ecstatic in a couple of months when we get to use it :D
 

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Discussion Starter #166
@Mutley, You have probably read our Journey to the Top of the World blog posts. I tried to play down just how not good the weather was but we missed out on a lot that we wanted to do because of it. And hence Van Wolf. Mind you at our age a good walk is about the limit of our outdoor pursuits these days. It was our second trip to Norway in a few years, I covered the first one retrospectively in my blog, and we hope it won't be our last.
 

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I hadn't read your blog T: we also drove up from Calais but didn't use the motorways very much as we were in a Land rover campervan, we went via the Putgarten ferry to Denmark and then over the bridge to Sweden, then up the Baltic sea coast to Finland, then on to Nordkapp then down the Norwegian coast to just north of Bergen, then it started raining quite a bit so we headed back to Sweden via Oslo and spent some more time exploring the lakes and forests.
 

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Sort of T: My parents are using it at the moment (as Dad finds the old lorries he's used to touring with a bit too much for him now) on the understanding we can have it back when he finds that too much :D
 

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Not a problem, had loads of Land Rovers.
Just the way JLR treated me with the last one I bought, which was rubbish.
I have sworn to never buy another.
The silver lining is I still have one which hopefully will live for ever!

Your use of VW’s is different from mine. My collection has to earn its living. All treasured and looked after, just kept busy to justify having them. :)
 

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Hi Bryn

We used Loox on the T6 where they were fitted in ply faced with vinyl cloth and scrim without a problem. Might have helped that most of the time they were dimmed? This time most of them will be going into timber cabinetry apart from a few in the roof, again headlining, scrim and ply. Once again they will all be on a 4 channel dimmer.

The floor panel is 18mm resin faced ply so should be sound, seems like it so far with my 95kg :), although I do have a mid support if need be.

WE are "enjoying" it too but we will be ecstatic in a couple of months when we get to use it :D
I should have added the dimming module at the time, that would help with the heat issue, i just love full warm brightness, although 8 of them in a T6 ceiling is quite bright, ill have to look at my Hafele book when i get to the workshop to have a look at the dimmer option


At least you do have a mid support as an option, i thought you were going to router out some of the plywood to reduce some weight on it, hence i was concerned about the deflection.

I'm looking forwards to seeing the end product, keep up the good work
 

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Discussion Starter #174 (Edited)
i thought you were going to router out some of the plywood to reduce some weight on it, hence i was concerned about the deflection.
I have out of the length that goes along the wall but I chickened out of doing it to the main floor panel and it doesn't deflect.

And here is where I have got to today;



Its all done apart from the master fuse & isolator to the board batteries, that needs a furniture panel which I haven't got but will jury rig. Then just plug in the Jupiter display inverter console, configure the dip switches, put the fuses in and it should all work.

I am curious though - as I was making connections the starter battery fuse / cables made contact and I got sparks and LEDs - I was quick to disengage but mildly concerned. However I have been through my control wiring diagram and the equipment destructions and I cant see anything amiss.

 

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Thats odd, you shouldn't have seen sparks, did you connect the pos first then the neg on the starter battery after installing the fuses?

It looks like i have to send my Triple charger and Jupiter panel back to Germany, i'm getting no solar display on the Jupiter, even though the triple charger is using the solar to charger the battery.

Just with the earths, you are connecting them to a bus board and sending them back to the shunt? it doesn't show that on you diagram for the Jupiter panel and relay.
 

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Discussion Starter #176
Thats odd, you shouldn't have seen sparks, did you connect the pos first then the neg on the starter battery after installing the fuses?

It looks like i have to send my Triple charger and Jupiter panel back to Germany, i'm getting no solar display on the Jupiter, even though the triple charger is using the solar to charger the battery.

Just with the earths, you are connecting them to a bus board and sending them back to the shunt? it doesn't show that on you diagram for the Jupiter panel and relay.
ATM vehicle battery is connected as I need it for locking. I was making the cable from the VCBS to the fuse, with the VCBS connected to the ground, when they touched. I guess I should disconnect the vehicle battery negative, pop the fuses in and then reconnect. I get a spark anyway then because of the vehicle systems.

Yes the circuit diagram hasn’t been adjusted for the actual install. The shunt is connected to the ground stud. The various negatives are collected on a bus bar and then to the stud. I have provided cabled negative for everything rather than use the chassis. The main cables are 40mm2 with a 300A main fuse (not shown) by the isolator.

Bad news if you have to send your kit back at this stage :(
 

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Holy moly, you know your stuff! I assume you have some kind of electrical background? Or is it purely self taught?

It blew my mind when I was able to wire up a tap in my van :D

Van's looking really tidy, good work!
 

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Discussion Starter #180 (Edited)
A day of making sure things are going to fit, that I can fit in the ever so tiny toilet & shower, that the door will be wide enough and most importantly that the "wine cooler" fits OK T:



And BTW the spirit level is only there as a straight edge although heaven know why you would want one in a VW Crafter. The laser on the tripod and fixed rather than floating is a little more useful.
 
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