I'm also interested in this. I've just had a Kenwood double din head unit fitted in my 2011 T5GP and even with the red and yellow wires reversed, as soon as you turn the key from running to electrics on the stereo goes off :*

In my T4, the stereo stayed on until you took the key out of the ignition barrel.

Any ideas???

 

http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=200377

 

I just tried swapping the red and yellow in the canbus, and my stereo did not work at all so am in the process of wiring it from the fuse box now to the yellow wire, any suggestions? It's a t5.1 by the way

 

It is the red (ignition) wire from the radio which needs connecting to the fuse box, thin green/brown wire at fuse position 19....

 

Can you give a review of you Eonon system when you've got it working thanks.

 

I used one of these instead of cutting into the wiring

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-X-MINI-...IGGYBACK-/230652186731?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35b3f1106b

 

Hi there,,

Wondering if you could help me on this Piggyback,

I have just bought a pioneer 3600, and have a 56plate quad lock wires.

I have plugged a piggyback in too the fuse box, and run a cable to the live feed (red cable) but radio still stays on.

I have also put a cable to the heater switch cable and run it to my live, and that also stays on, even the fan stays on.

Any chance of pointing me in the right direction?

I have tried to get the panel under the glovebox off, but it looks like someone has over tightened the stews at the bottom so I cannot get the plastic cover off to get at the back of the fuse box!

My head is spinning!!

If any one could possibly help it would be much appreciated

Chris

 

Thanks guys

 

Re: VW crafter ry2360 headunit

Hi, has anyone upgraded there vw crafter single din head unit. For. A double din ry236

My wiring harness has a double iso block speakers one side power the other etc.. Ex pet the wiring is not a standard ISO

My problems is I cannot seem to find the pinouts required for the new quadlock

On the ry2360

Also if any one knows the fakra connections in the back please could you let me know

I have a red and blue large fakra and two small fakra green and black - I think the small green is for the arial converter but not sure about the black red and blue

Thanks

 

Hi,
I've been looking on this forum for a few hours now and have found out most things I need to do to get the head unit to work via the ignition but wanted to check a few things before I go ahead with this....
I have a 12 plate T5 does the process of connecting the 12v supply from the aftermarket Head Unit plug to the brown/green switch live still apply? And if so I managed to gain access to the fuse board by removing the panel next to it as stated in other threads but the only brown/green cable is approximately 0.5/0.75mm and supplies a 5amp circuit but my Head U feed is approximately 1.5mm and has a 15amp fuse fitted. If i take the feed from this cable won't I just overload it causing at best a fuse to blow or worse causing a fire or melting of the insulation?? If I am correct in saying this what else can I do to get the HU to work via the ignition?
I would be extremely grateful for some advice on this.
Thanks,
Joe

 

Ask Dave
http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=840945

 

Hoovie T: T:

 

The ignition control into the radio (which is what you are trying to find there of course) is very low power. It essentially acts as a external on/off power control for the radio on and the 'real' power is via the permanent +12V line which is provided on the original VW radio loom. T:

 

Hi thanks for the reply, the problem I have is the stereo doesn't seem to turn off completely when pushing the power button in so because of this i believe there are things still running in the background thats draining my battery if I was to connect it up as you said would the outcome change as there would still be a permanent live powering it?

 

You haven't said (or I have missed it?) how the Ignition Line into the radio is being provided currently?
If this is from a permanent +12V source, then yes, the radio probably (depends on specific radio) will NOT go fully off even when OFF button on radio is pressed,
You need to have a switched +12V into that input that truly drops - either from an Ignition-Key controlled line, or even from a basic mechanical switch. it doesn't matter, but the voltage needs to drop for the radio to go off.

There is always permanent power into the radio on the main +12V supply into it. That is normal, always the case and if you disconnected that when you want the radio off you will need to be resetting it every time you apply power (stations, clock, etc, etc) so that is not a desirable (or anywhere necessary) thing to do.

 

I believe it is a permanent 12v supply.
I have taken the stereo out has a play around and plugged it back in around 3 days later and all the changes like time and the home layout were still as I left them. So I'm thinking if I can find a ignition supply I can just cut the permanent +12v cable on the plug provided with the stereo and connect the ignition cable to it via an inline Fuse? If i can do this where would be the best place to take this feed from or if there another way to get it to work in this way?? Thanks you for your help I do appreciate your replies.

 

The best way depend on how much work you want to do and how much you want to cut into the VW wiring

Using the ignition circuit that feeds Fuse 19 in the central fusebox is probably the most popular source to drive the radio. It is not a high-current circuit but is perfectly fine for the limited power the radio needs on the ignition-in feed. This source has been used by countless people to drive their head units.

two options to get that feed into the head unit ...
1) splice into the cable at the back of the fuse box, solder a wire to it and run that to the radio ignition-in line
2) use a piggy-back fuseholder to get the feed in.

option 1 would be the 'best' option in terms of a solid supply, but is more complex to do, you need to add a fuse on the added cable if taking from the pre-fuse cable into Fuse 19 and you are cutting into original cabling

option 2 is the one i personally prefer and do myself as it leaves the VW wiring totally alone, you have an independently fused supply to the radio (I use 10A or 5A) and takes seconds to fit.

This is what option 2 looks like:

If you wanted a prepared piggyback fuseholder plus fuse and extension cable terminating in a male Bullet (which would plug straight into the Female Bullet of 99% of aftermarket radios), then I supply those at £4.00 posted next day

 

Ok thank you for your help I will go for option 2 just because like you said you leave the factory wiring alone, I'm assuming you just unplug fuse 19s 5amp fuse and just replace it with your piggyback fuse then connect my feed up to my stereo from there? How do I go about buy one from yourself??

 

remove the fuse, plug in the piggyback.
The piggyback has two fuse positions -
the lower one replaces the fuse for the existing circuit and is where the fuse you have taken out goes.
the upper one is a fuse for the new circuit you are adding, so both are protected this way.
When you see the fuseholder it will be totally clear T: (I'll put a pair of 5A fuses in the holder ready so you don't need to even fit the one you take out - just keep it as a spare)
Then the extension lead pushes up from the fuse box to the radio position behind the dash plastics and you just need to catch it and plug in it. Once the fuse box cover is back in place, all wiring is hidden A:

to get one, just paypal to "david@wildebus.co.uk" and PM me your address. Heading to Post Office in around 20 mins and can out to you for tomorrow