Photo for those of you living in the Northern Hemisphere, not down under!

 

I just prised that drive shaft out and off once the subframe was removed. From memory there was one bolt well hidden on the inside going through the engine into the gearbox also 2/3 up near the water pump, I would check everywhere again and maybe just feeling for one still not removed. Did you check the level in the clutch fluid? Did you find it was sticking in gear thus the need to remove the box? I think I would have bleed the system first (without knowing the mileage and how hard a life its had) just my 2pennys worth. All the best with fixing it, should be straight forward enough bar the weight of the box!

 

Thanks Simon for reply, yes I checked brake fluid level, it was full, also checked for leak around clutch pedal. Now that I've got the starter off I also don't see any leak around slave cylinder, as I think I'd see some fluid stain on the DMF ?
The last bolt I did find was hiding above another bolt, by the differential, but as you say going from engine to gearbox.
Can you confirm I need to drop the whole subframe? Was hoping to avoid that,

 

I have put this job to one side, waiting to see if anyone knows of a hidden Allen bolt or something that retains the drive shaft on the differential, most drive shafts have a ring of bolts or Allen bolts retaining them. Tomorrow , unless someone can suggest otherwise I'll put some serious force on that cv to try and pill it off.......bed time here in NZ

 

You will need to remove the subframe ... Than shaft shouldn't have come apart like that, you may need to replace that joint, from memory there's a 6mm Allen bolt where the o/s stub would bolt in, so inside the transfer box where the shaft goes in.... But might be confused with other 4 motion stuff

Regards

Dan

Just Vanz

 

Hi Dan, thanks for your reply, the cv drive shaft is ok, in frustration I undid one end of the boot and then released the drive shaft by releasing the circlip, that held the shaft into the cv. Today I had success, it just needed a lot of force, which was surprising as there was plenty of grease....... Then undid the Allen bolt and got the stub shaft out of the gearbox.

However I'm still in battle with splitting the gearbox from the engine, I've now dropped the sub frame, whilst I've got a little movement all around the clutch housing, so far it won't budge any further, I'm going to invest in some better pry bars and try again. I did have a chain attached to the gearbox, which I was then ratcheting against the shed wall, but the van was rocking on the axle stands so badly thought it wise to pack up.
I've looked for that LAST bolt holding it all together........but I cannot see it, I'm going to get a mate to cast his eyes over it. Anybody know what the plastic bung at the top of the clutch plate housing is for, it opens a hole about half inch, mines just full of clutch dust?

 

You should have left the stub in place but if its worn replace it when you put everything back together.
I would get a crow bar and work around the box but it sounds like you have missed a bolt near the top of the engine/gearbox. It should slide out with a fair bit of wiggling but be careful it is flippin heavy you want a trolly jack under it and don't pull it all the way out until its balanced on the jackT:
Also its a self adjusting pressure plate so do it up alittle at a time as you work around it and replace the CSC while your there. If you don't you will need to re-set it but I paid £27 for one (CSC) and its not worth not replacing as the bearing in it gets notchy from clutch dust and .

 

Thanks Simon, new day here, yup I'm beginning to think there must still be a bolt at the top somewhere....... Using a trolley jack and a heavy duty motorbike jack + a couple of bottle jacks. When I get in there I'll be replacing the DMF, CLUTCH, CRB, and slave cylinder - this is a job I don't want to do again.

 

That's exactly what I thought when I did it! Trolly jack under the engine sump (on a block of wood) and another trolly jack under the box. Slowly slowly is the key. When I re-fitted I got a couple of the bolts back on the box and wiggled it until it sat flush just don't try and bolt it up if its not sitting flush. And you will need to get your tracking re-done. Sorry if it sounds like I'm telling you what to do!! Atleast you have the weather on your sideT:.

 

Thanks Simon, your comments are a great help, I've put this to one side over last couple of days, the day job kept me busy
Weather is great here, one of the driest parts of New Zealand, but bit hot working on van, yesterday it got to 32C, the vans is a tin shed.....hanger.
Done a few minor things like put the shaft held by Allen bolt back in diff, clean k&n filter, buy some more pri bars , and search again for that last bolt holding it all together.........but I now think I have got them all

 

Nice roll on the summer here! Silly question but you have removed the support for the gearbox that sits on the top of it?

 

Thanks Simon, no silly questions....all helpfull. I tried again no luck, it appears the gearbox is being held at the diff end, do you think on the 4motion the rear prop shaft needs removing to get the shaft free from differential?
I can't think of any bracket that's holding the gearbox, except the one that goes to the subframe - removed. Photo's below

 

So sub frame is removed just to confirm?
Gearbox selector cables and all other bits disconnected from the box.
OH was there a bolt in the starter housing now I come to think of it???
I would have been looking to have undone the prop shaft and pulled the whole lot out.
It would be heavier BUT easier than trying to align both the shafts when putting it back together.
Its frustrating not being able to see it in the flesh.

 

Just looked at manual, and these IS a bolt inside the starter housing, and may be hidden in clutch dust.
There is another immediately above the starter upper mounting bolt, and 2 more very close to each other about 6" below the starter.

 

Thanks for continued support on this, definitely have removed bolt in starter casing, I can now get about 1/4 inch movement on that side of the gearbox, think all bolts are removed, including the ones close to another. It does't appear to be releasing around the diff.

3 bolts removed from sub frame, last one is loose, it's dropped about 4 inches on gearbox end, ie there is plenty of room to get off the engine, well at least start to get it off, if I need more I'll continue to lower, but at the moment didn't want to stretch any hoses or wires attached to engine. .......although the way it's going maybe I should just undo everything and drop the lot on the ground?
Had to reattached far engine mount so that I had something to pull against, whilst using the chain.
Tomorrow's another day, temp got up to 36c today, we're expecting same tomorrow.

 

FOR SALE T5 4MOTION AS IS WHERE IS

another day crawling around under van, photo's show progress..... Minimal but we're getting the gearbox off, BUT the diff is refusing to part from gearbox. I'm presently trying to undoe the pinion bolt on the output to rear prop shaft..... Of course everything just turns, probably meant to undoe with wheels on ground and drive shafts fitted!!!! Put some bolts in and wedged a bar between them, but that pinion bolt is real tight.
Looks like the diff is coming out too, which of course makes it heavier and requires more of a gap!!!!

 

THE CLUTCH IS OUT and it's fooked

The gearbox isn't out, as I couldn't get the diff of it, so I ended up just working with the gap between the engine and bell housing. Haven't got the DMF off as I had to go to town to get another type of mult- headed (splined) socket, but it appears to have about half an inch of radial movement, so I guess it's fooked too. Ordered the parts, looks like a week away - have to come from Austrailia - nothing new there.

 

Hurray A:A:A: After all that deff do the DMF!!

 

New DMF clutch and slave cylinder/ release bearing fitted. Wasn't a smooth ride, first time I put the DMF in last of the 8 bolts wouldn't line up.........yes there is only one position that it fits.....mark the position of the old one! And another question that I'm not sure I want to know the answer to which way round does the clutch plate go, I fitted mine bulging side out ( towards gearbox), once again I didn't remember how mine came out, mine did just fall out in pieces- but I should have noted which way round.:*

 

All back together and working a treat, biggest hassle was waiting for the diff oil to seep in to the filler, BE WARNED ( I thought it was worth changing diff oil whilst I had van in bits) The diff drain and filler are Allen bolts, so I thought it would be easy, however the filler has only got a small slot behind bolt, which makes filling very difficult, and slow, I had to use a very small diameter pipe which means it took hours to fill, T:be warned.

 

Hi Richard

I'm the one having fun under that van now, at least I have a hoist! Just did a search on removing the rear engine mount and came here.

The exhaust manifold developed a crack which sent exhaust gasses back into the engine and sucked the oil seal out of the Turbo.

I was on my way south and was thinking i'd pop in to see you while visiting my cousin in Cromwell. Decided not to keep going south of Ch-Ch because I was worried about the Turbo. It got me home to Auckland then sounded when I started it after Easter.

Cheers


Warren

 

Glad its all sortedT:

 

Hi I am new on this forum and busy changing DMF/clutch on my 2.5 tdi t5 4motion, 270.000km. Got the subframe off, starter off, axell's off, all the bolts connecting the gearbox to the engine, but it seems that there is a bolt somewhere that I missed.....Have read the posts above many times but still do not understand what I am missing. So I know this a old subject but I hope someone will respond still. Tried to install elsawin om laptop many times with no result. Does anyone have a workshop manual for t5 4motion (complete is best but just dmf/clutch is great) in pdf? Or helpfull tips?

 

The only bolt thats a bit hidden is the bolt thats behind the starter motor? other than that i think they are all fairly easy to spot

 

Hi west one, thanks for your reply. I did found that one thats not it. The 4motion gear box is different, cannot find any documentation

 

As far as I know, there is no such thing as a printed workshop manual that covers the 4motion (the Haynes manual does not).

Probably the best source of information will be directly from VW, via erWin.