[Tony243]

Hi everyone, I have a fault with my door locks too, the drivers door won't lock with the remote, only the key, the passenger door with remote locks sometimes, but will not unlock, and will not unlock manually from inside mostly, I have to lock and unlock many times with remote to get it to unlock when I want to fuel up!
Any help please?

 

[OSTY]

Hi Tony243, are you still needing door locks help ?

 

[Myci85]

I know this is a really old thread, but on the off chance the OP sees this, I wanted to say a massive thank you for the detailed and helpful post. We've just bought a T5 and the central locking wasn't working at all, had to manually unlock each door separately which was a right faff. Found this thread, investigated our wiring and it was the same issue. Got rid of the corroded wiring, reconnected, and the central locking now works!
So happy, I was fully expecting a hefty bill having to get it sorted by someone else!

 

[Beesknees]

Hi just brought a t5 the central door not working on the passenger side can not lock it from that side .but from inside I can .the dash board light is on to say door is open but all the doors are close .i had to disconnect the battery as the light inside of sleeping department keep on coming on and set of the alarm .any ideas.as first time on here and my first t5 the year is o8

 

[Hargreavesrj]

Hi there, I’ve seen a catalog of posts on here that have been super useful to show some common central locking problems but none seem to describe my issue.

Once I have locked the van with the fob or key, deadlock or non deadlock, the van will unlock itself after a random period of time sometimes it’s within a minute other times it’s hours later. Obviously this is a big worry.

I have fixed the common issue of the corroded red and blue wire under the drivers seat but still no success. Any ideas? or anyone who’s had similar central locking woes
? Any replies would be appreciated! thanks

2007 T30 2.5TDi 4motion

 

[DaveNZ]

Great thread thanks Johnny. I have 2005 VW Caravekk, the red flashing light in the door and the drivers door unlocks spasmodically. My thinking is the following:

1 Check to see if the solenoid is working by listening near the door
2 If sound then check the wiring as John explains
3 If no sound and wiring good then look to get an after market door lock.

a few questions:

Does anyone know the car part number for the front drivers and passenger door lock?

I have seen these and wonder if they may work if it is the solenoid failing.

45.0US $ |Rekeete Front Right SIDE 3B1 837 016BR DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR MECHANISM for VW POLO 9N FOR VW T5 CADDY III FOR SKODA FABIA|Interior Door Handles| - AliExpress

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

Is there a known dampness issue on the floor plate of these cars which causes wire corrosion

much appreciated

Dave in NZ

 

[wattybarcelona]

From much searching and tips from this forum I have now fixed my central locking! Very happy now! I bought my van with the fault on so saved myself money.

Faults,

Absolutely nothing happening when the key fob was pressed even after changing the battery
Drivers door red LED not flashing and had to lock each door individually.
Only getting 5 volts from the power feed cable to the central locking module (under drivers seat)

The fault is a corroded / broken power cable (red & blue) to the central locking module under the floor matt on the drivers side due to damp build up around the join.

Process of repair,

Make sure you disconnect the earth from the battery, chock the wheels and leave vehicle in gear as you will have to disconnect the hand brake.

I have removed the passenger seats for better access and to clean all the damp from under the floor matt but can be done with passenger seats fitted.

First remove the drivers seat via the 2x 13mm nuts and 2x multi spline bolts not forgetting to disconnect the seat pressure switch underneath.

Slide off the handbrake cover off via levering the clip out from underneath and sliding forwards.

Then remove the lower section of the handbrake cover.

You will now see the handbrake mechanism and adjustment nut.

Measure the distance from the top of the nut to the top of the threads, must be the same when re fitting, mine was 11mm, if you don't have a ruler you can use a spanner that is the same distance as a guide. Remove nut and slide out handbrake cable.

Disconnect the handbrake sensor switch.

Remove central locking module from the seat base and the 4x 16mm nuts holding it in place.

Lift up the floor matt and remove the central locking module.

Un wind or carefully snip the fabric cover back aprox 12 inches.

Part way down you will come across the power cable with a black cover round it, mine just fell apart and was covered in green corrosion powder but worth taking this off too, to check.

I stripped back the wires to get bare good wire, used a bullet connector to repair the split, plugged in the module and battery earth back on to test and boom! Central locking works?! The other cable was 3 inches long and didn't go to anything so I just removed it.

I very tightly used electrical tape to re insulate and waterproof the bare wires and re assemble.
Remember to clean under the floor matt and adjust the handbrake back to the same position..

Hope this helps, any problems or if I've missed something PM me.
John boy.
A:

Absolutely spot-on. Thanks a million for this brilliant step-by-step guide.

 

[Luigijohn]

Deleted

 

[Kombi28]

THAT, sir is one of The most helpful How To's ever.
Thanks

 

[s. buckley]

This is a great thread, exactly the same problem with corrosion on the spliced joint on my van causing the alarm to activate randomly. It was very wet under there and this must have caused the problem, I’ve tried to eliminate any sources of water ingress but has anyone tried to tidy up or move the wiring harness under the flooring to make it less likely to be damaged agai?

 

[Marcelslufter]

Hi all.
T5 2009 converted to campervan, from Holland.

Everything locks with fob. Alarm comes on.
Nothing opens with fob. Alarm comes off.
Key in lock. Only driversdoor opens.
Have to open the rest from inside.
Button in door. Locks everything. Nothing opens.

Wire under floor allready repaired.
No faults in vcds.

Help. I'm lost.

Thnx.

 

[Deltabox]

Hi all.
T5 2009 converted to campervan, from Holland.

Everything locks with fob. Alarm comes on.
Nothing opens with fob. Alarm comes off.
Key in lock. Only driversdoor opens.
Have to open the rest from inside.
Button in door. Locks everything. Nothing opens.

Wire under floor allready repaired.
No faults in vcds.

Help. I'm lost.

Thnx.

Have you been into vcds and checked the door switches open and close and also the open/ close switch?
If it’s not showing as locked it won’t open.

This was how I resolved mine. Aswell as other faults my open/ lock switch was broken and wouldn’t open. They are the same switch as the electric window switches so I swapped to prove.

 

[Marcelslufter]

Microswitches work ok. Open/close and locked/unlocked.

 

[Marcelslufter]

How does the central locking work?
Fob signal goes to? Driversdoor lock? Etc. Etc.

 

[geoff123]

Just did mine today following this, like a few people have said you can do it without taking seat out. Mine didn't work at first after rewiring it, and I thight, what now, as I was getting 12v through, then I thought put key in the door and see if it activate it, and it did, doors where locking on key and light on door was flashing, then tried fob and it was working then as well, over the moon, took about an hr. Like a few people have said afraid to do it them selves, well if your around Leeds I am happy to look at it for you. I convert vans into campers, sell hitop roofs for last 25yrs and elevators coming soon at good cost. Yorkshire conversions , Leeds,

Hi, there are a couple of things that I would like to discuss with you. I have tried to phone YC Leeds, but just get engaged. Could you .please tell me if you are still trading. Even if you are not I would still like to hear from you (to pick your brains). Thank you. Geoff.

 

[MarvinT5]

Had similar passenger door issues and checked the wiring loom. No issues there.

On removing the module it was rattling. Looks like whoever installed it after seats were recovered overtightened and broke the internal cap on a screwthread.

There was some evidence of moisture inside the unit, some corrosion residue, and when I reattached the battery it smoked and flamed. Looks like I caught a potential electrical fire just in time.

Looks like the added oxygen from being opened sped things up.

Now looking for a new module and somewhere to code it.

Blooming vans.

 

[geoff123]

My central locking may possibly have the same fault as described by JohnBoy (thanks JB for such a great and helpful post). My bus is a 2005 t30 shuttle and the loom under the drivers seats looks very complicated. There is what appears to be a block with connector plugs near the handbrake, is that the CCU?, and another along the back of the seat base. The only part of the loom that goes under the mat (other then the handbrake switch) probably goes to the B pillar. will the fault be in this section or will it be in one of the several loom arms that are above the mat. the floor under the mat does feel dry, but I have not removed the seat, just had a feel around through the mat cuts. Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you. Geoff.

 

[triffic]

There is what appears to be a block with connector plugs near the handbrake, is that the CCU?

The CCU is a module under the seat with (typically) three large multi-way connectors on it. On that age of van it will ~probably~ be marked 7H0959433.

 

[geoff123]

Thank you. Do you know if on the shuttle the problem cable is in the loom section that goes under the mat to the b pillar or one of the loom sections above the mat? Geoff.

 

[triffic]

Sorry, I don't know - we've (thankfully) not had that problem with ours (yet).