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HI,
am having little problem with central locking also.
when i get in van and dont turn ignition on the van will lock all doors
and thats with me sitting in driver seat with fob in hand.
if i get in van and turn ignition on and off again it doesnt lock.
 

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HI, another problem.

My passenger side electric window works from passenger door switch.
nothing works on drivers door.( window, heated mirrors, door locks.)
have checked for power and get 12.45 volts across red/white and brown.
 

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From much searching and tips from this forum I have now fixed my central locking! Very happy now! I bought my van with the fault on so saved myself money.

Faults,

Absolutely nothing happening when the key fob was pressed even after changing the battery
Drivers door red LED not flashing and had to lock each door individually.
Only getting 5 volts from the power feed cable to the central locking module (under drivers seat)

The fault is a corroded / broken power cable (red & blue) to the central locking module under the floor matt on the drivers side due to damp build up around the join.

Process of repair,

Make sure you disconnect the earth from the battery, chock the wheels and leave vehicle in gear as you will have to disconnect the hand brake.

I have removed the passenger seats for better access and to clean all the damp from under the floor matt but can be done with passenger seats fitted.

First remove the drivers seat via the 2x 13mm nuts and 2x multi spline bolts not forgetting to disconnect the seat pressure switch underneath.


Slide off the handbrake cover off via levering the clip out from underneath and sliding forwards.


Then remove the lower section of the handbrake cover.


You will now see the handbrake mechanism and adjustment nut.


Measure the distance from the top of the nut to the top of the threads, must be the same when re fitting, mine was 11mm, if you don't have a ruler you can use a spanner that is the same distance as a guide. Remove nut and slide out handbrake cable.


Disconnect the handbrake sensor switch.


Remove central locking module from the seat base and the 4x 16mm nuts holding it in place.



Lift up the floor matt and remove the central locking module.


Un wind or carefully snip the fabric cover back aprox 12 inches.


Part way down you will come across the power cable with a black cover round it, mine just fell apart and was covered in green corrosion powder but worth taking this off too, to check.



I stripped back the wires to get bare good wire, used a bullet connector to repair the split, plugged in the module and battery earth back on to test and boom! Central locking works?! The other cable was 3 inches long and didn't go to anything so I just removed it.

I very tightly used electrical tape to re insulate and waterproof the bare wires and re assemble.
Remember to clean under the floor matt and adjust the handbrake back to the same position..

Hope this helps, any problems or if I've missed something PM me.
John boy.
A:
Forgive me if this is a stupid question, would it work just disconnecting the broken cable and run a new power cable to the module? Then avoiding hand brake removal?




My central locking was fine only after removing the battery to give it a 24 hour charge off the vehicle then upon replacing said battery did the CL stop working, so perhaps the higher power finally made coroded cable fail
 

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ok have checked mine out, cables dont seem corroded.


my central locking stopped after removing battery for charging, i thought had done a good job of keeping power to the van with a back up battery connected wth a temp lead on croc clips, raado code certanly didntneed re entering. If id did losew power for a few seconds could this bugger up central lockng/ doesnt even work with keys ?????
 

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HI,
am having little problem with central locking also.
when i get in van and dont turn ignition on the van will lock all doors
and thats with me sitting in driver seat with fob in hand.
if i get in van and turn ignition on and off again it doesnt lock.
This is because the ecu fails to receive signal from any open door...
I have the exact same issue with my 2007 T5.

I assume that, an earlier mentioned, micro-switch is faulty...
I have not yet taken the time to get it fixed, but will keep u posted on a solution...next week ;)
 

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This is because the ecu fails to receive signal from any open door...
I have the exact same issue with my 2007 T5.

I assume that, an earlier mentioned, micro-switch is faulty...
I have not yet taken the time to get it fixed, but will keep u posted on a solution...next week ;)


I’ve just Fitted a micro switch to my passenger door. A real faff but now workin fine. I bought the switch from Bmacvags who have a handy YouTube vid on how to install.

The switch cost me £14 as I wanted to make sure it was the right one. It looks similar to others on eBay for £6 but I didn’t want to risk it.

Only issue I now have is when I operate the internal lock button it locks all doors and then re opens the passenger door. The open button then doesn’t do anything?

I assume another one of the switches used for locked and unlocked is knackered? Each door has 3 switches.....


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Guys - Just an update on this. The problem I have is with my deadlocking on the passenger door. Ive just replaced the micro switch on the door and found the switches that show the door locked and unlocked are not working on the sliding mech and I'm ed if I can get it to operate so have bought a new mech off eBay....

Ive now fitted and its still the same :confused:

So here is what it does...

1 Press on the lock fob and it locks. A second press of lock dead locks and opens the passenger door.

if i press the lock button inside the van it locks all doors momentarily and then the passenger side door opens again..

Im hoping the ebay mech has locked and unlocked switches fitted so am stumped as to what could be stopping it short of having vcds on it?

I might try disconnecting the battery tomorrow and see if it resets every thing? Ive checked the wires under seat years ago and had the van 5 years and only now having a garage I've got round to looking into fixing it... Any help greatly appreciated.
 

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Hello,
Thankyou. I used this thread to trace why my central locking only works when remote is very close to the car. When I exposed the re/blue wire down to where it splits in to two wires...I also found that one of those wires that branches off is actually cut and tapped off! But can find no other corresponding end. Where is it supposed to go? All the locks work by remote...they are just only work when I'm standing right next to the car.
Regards
Adrian
 

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The cable that goes no where which everyone keeps saying about is the power supply for the power latch rear tailgate fitted to some models like the caravelle exec. T:

I had problems with my power latch. There is absolutely zero fault finding processes on vw technical and I checked all the wiring, components, stripped latch motor and tested, checked module etc. I gave up for a while but stripped the front out to insulate under the cab and found this.
Absolutely zero problems with anything else apart from the power latch. Repaired with a crimp instead of soldering again and power latched worked like a charm T:

So yes dont bother trying to trace the other wire if you do not have a power latch, you will be wasting your time. :eek:

 

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Ah mine is 2005 hatch caravelle , CL stopped working completely , out of the blue after charging battery , havent taken seat out to check wires yet because it looks in such good condtion hard to imagne any corroded wires. People who have had corroded wire problem did CL suddenly stop working ? or was it intermitently not working? Many thanks in advance for comments







[/QUOTE]
 

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I had checked mine and found only corrosion so repaired the spliced joint. My central locking was still playing up coupled with a faulty micro switch which I replaced but it still wasn’t right.

At my wits end I took my seat out and rechecked the wires. After I removed taping I pulled the wires individually and 2 broke. I’ve repaired them and now the deadlocks work as expected.

Still can’t get the locking switch in van to unlock doors but I don’t think that goes to the central locking module?


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Apologies for hijacking this great thread but with the help have now fixed my locking fully after several years!! The final fault on mine was the locking button in the van on the drivers door was faulty.

This was as well as the broken wires and micro switch !!!

With the drivers door lock/unlock button a replacement we’re crazy money and from looking at the wiring diagram the window switches are the same config. I removed the passenger window switch and with some minor alteration was a led to plug it in and hey ho it now works thus proving the fault. I’ve swapped the back of the switched over and ordered a new window switch for £6 rather than £20 for a lock button.

Well chuffed.


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@deltabox did you find out where 'the locking switch in van' wiring goes to? I don't have one in mine and it feels pretty vulnerable driving around with everything unlocked.
 

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Hi Guys, I have a LHD 2005 T5 Multivan/Caravelle that I imported second hand from Germany, its a highline model and everything is electrical which is great but as you can imagine this gives lots of wierd faults !!

I have a drivers door central locking fault, it works every now and again but most times i have to lock it with the key, Ive chased wires back to the control unit and all seems ok so am about to buy a new actuator unit for the door-unless anyone has experienced this fault before and can point me in the right direction.

Any suggestions greatly appreciated !!
 

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@deltabox did you find out where 'the locking switch in van' wiring goes to? I don't have one in mine and it feels pretty vulnerable driving around with everything unlocked.


Hi mate, everything goes back to a module or another but if you do some googling or look up travelvolts on here he did some kits and identified the wires you needed to tap onto to install a locking button.


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Hi Guys, I have a LHD 2005 T5 Multivan/Caravelle that I imported second hand from Germany, its a highline model and everything is electrical which is great but as you can imagine this gives lots of wierd faults !!



I have a drivers door central locking fault, it works every now and again but most times i have to lock it with the key, Ive chased wires back to the control unit and all seems ok so am about to buy a new actuator unit for the door-unless anyone has experienced this fault before and can point me in the right direction.



Any suggestions greatly appreciated !!


Make sure you really check the wires in detail as mine had to be pulled to be found as they appeared intact until I pulled them and then broke. Once I re joined them it worked.

The Ebay actuators are cheap enough but a pig to work on. Does your interior light come on when you open door and does the locking and dead locking work?

If dead locked you can’t open from inside and if you press fob twice it should only lock. Openable from inside.

Vcds helped me diagnose faults


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