[lumoxs]

This is excellant ao i have subscribed!!!

i am honestly thinking about doing this myself.... as m 2.4 is weak and very slow... so i turbo could be what it needs.... great updates and they are very clear to follow.... i think i am going to do this :ILU:

time to get on ebay for the parts,

i have one qurestion tho, where does the oil feed come from, i have seen the dip stick / oil return thingy, but i have no idea where you would put the oil feed.... any advice welcomed!
Ash

 

[Brookster]

Just had the T4 MOT'd Yesterday and it flew thru also got the MK1 Running now too but need to get that MOT'd now.

Then its Time to finish the Turbo Install and get everything bolted onto the Engine T:


I;ve spun the K14 Compressor housing 90 deg to allow easier fitting, buts its still gunna be tight.

V70 Downpipe is perfect for the job , just needs a bottom section fabricating.

 

[lumoxs]

can i ask a question here,

i'm confused about the situation on the down pipe, i read earlier that it sat on the wrong side of the turbo so it needs to be custom....

what have you done to allow the downpipe off the volvo on the same side?

ash

 

[JonT4]

Are the brackets attached to the turbo housing needed for anything?(The ones with nuts welded to them). Can I take them off as I intend to mount my turbo facing upwards opposed to downwards and one is in the way.

 

[Brookster]

Are the brackets attached to the turbo housing needed for anything?(The ones with nuts welded to them). Can I take them off as I intend to mount my turbo facing upwards opposed to downwards and one is in the way.

i cut the nut off the Brackets , they are not required. If you mount the Compressor housing facing upwards the Wastegate is in the way you will have to do some modifications.

You can see the mounting bracket & fixing here before i removed them.

The Volvo downpipe is standard V70 and the K14 Turbo too, they sit the opposite side of the Standard T4 TDI K14 Turbo.

The V70 Downpipe just needs a bottom section making to suite the exhaust. T:

 

[JonT4]

OK I have been forced into doing this conversion earlier than planned as my front crankshaft seal has gone. To replace it I need to remove the timing belt which goes around the camshaft pulley and whilst that part is in bits I may aswell whip the head off etc.

I have a couple of questions which I REALLY hope someone can answer for me as technically I have started the conversion today and I'm on a time limit. I am going to put the intercooler in now whilst I'm ordering hoses etc. I understand the basics but need a few things clearing up.

1)Does the intercooler basically fit on the pipework between the turbo and the inlet manifold (but obviously situated properly)?

2)Are there any 'additional' sensors needed for the turbo/intercooler on this conversion?

3) Can I use any intercooler?

I intend to fit a single steel 3 hole gasket and port the head on the inlet and exhaust sides to match the manifolds aswell as reducing the compression ratio by working the cylinder head valve chambers. I will mate the turbo upto a V70 downpipe and blend that into a 2 1'2" custom made stainless system with just one box. I will set it up on the rolling road with fueling to match 1Bar of turbo pressure although if the CR or fueling don't hinder may go higher.

 

[Compo]

Hey guys, this is a great thread, just what I've been looking for.

Jon, I'm with you with this build. My seal was leaking, but now the pulley has separated! So it's a case of removing the old lump and giving it a good overhaul come re-con.

Think I'm gonna go the v70 manifold and downpipe. So Jon, Brookster, do you fancy seeing if we can get a better deal if we order exhausts together?

Oh yeah, Jon, what do you mean by porting the head and what's involved in working the chambers? I wont be doing it, but want to be able to discuss it with my engine builder.

Keep it up guys, you got followers in your footsteps....

 

[JonT4]

Hey guys, this is a great thread, just what I've been looking for.

Jon, I'm with you with this build. My seal was leaking, but now the pulley has separated! So it's a case of removing the old lump and giving it a good overhaul come re-con.

Think I'm gonna go the v70 manifold and downpipe. So Jon, Brookster, do you fancy seeing if we can get a better deal if we order exhausts together?

Oh yeah, Jon, what do you mean by porting the head and what's involved in working the chambers? I wont be doing it, but want to be able to discuss it with my engine builder.

Keep it up guys, you got followers in your footsteps....

I have my exhaust ordered I'm affraid. £400 from Powerflow, custom made. Getting a group buy is unlikely and probably uneconomical as somewhere would need to fabricate one from an original and then post them out. If there were any deviations/problems it's a large item to be sending backwards and forwards. When I say port/work the head I will be opening the inlet and exhaust ports on the head and the manifolds to increase their size and shape to give a higher and better air flow. Working the valve chambers also increases flow and gives more volumatic space aswell as reducing the compression ratio. This is an art form and should only be done by someone with relative knowledge. I have never done it on a diesel engine before but have had good results on petrol engines and the principles of diesel and petrol engines are fundemantally the same. The limiting factor on any engine is the amount of air that can enter the chambers. The more air you put in the more fuel you can put in thus increasing engine output. Going back to the exhaust, the standard bore size on the 2.4D is design for a normally aspirated engine and will cause a large restriction on gases being flowed out. The bore size needs to be increased to atleast 2 1'2" to flow the exhaust gases from the turbo without restriction otherwise any amount of air/fuel won't be allowed in anyway. The ports also need to be polished. The inlet port needs to be finished to slightly rougher surface finish than the exhaust port to create a turbulent effect. The exhaust port must be polished to a very smooth finish because of the way the gases need to slipstream to exit as quickly as possible to allow the cylinders to refill.

 

[Compo]

Nice one, that makes sense, thanks.

That seems a good price to me? Are you using the v70 downpipe and connecting onto the end, or customising straight from the turbo outlet and just using the flange?

So realistically, think I'll be sticking with two gaskets, but may look into re-bore. Just seems two gaskets is adding more potential for leaks?

This has turned out to be my first engine project, so hope you don't mind the questions? The only one now is about getting enough fuel. Are you planning on fitting a bigger pump / injectors?

 

[4motion]

1)Does the intercooler basically fit on the pipework between the turbo and the inlet manifold (but obviously situated properly)?

2)Are there any 'additional' sensors needed for the turbo/intercooler on this conversion?

3) Can I use any intercooler?

1) Yes, you may need some alloy sleeves to connect bends.
2) I used the ACV turbo on mine which involved no sensors, Brooksters your man when using the Volvo turbo but I think not.
3)Yes, bigger the better.
I've been running mine for 6 months with no issues apart from the temp rising on long journeys. So while you are doing it maybe consider fitting an oil coller which is my next mod.

 

[JonT4]

3)Yes, bigger the better.
I've been running mine for 6 months with no issues apart from the temp rising on long journeys. So while you are doing it maybe consider fitting an oil coller which is my next mod.

Good thought, cheers. Is the offer still there to pop over at some point to see your fine work if I need to?


Compo:
They will be connecting to the pipe as low as possible as iirc. it's a 2 1/2" pipe anyway. I won't use 2 gaskets unless I can find a saverplate/shim to go between them. The gaskets have a very small area that seats and fitting one on top of the other would be like putting two hula-hoops on top of each other, applying a massive clamping force and expecting them not to slip off each other. It may work but I need this van to be ultra reliable as it's my works van so I'm not taking the chance. Good luck if you do I would be very interested in the results. With regards fueling I will see what the limit of the pump and injectors are before deciding if it would be worth uprating.

 

[Brookster]

1)Does the intercooler basically fit on the pipework between the turbo and the inlet manifold (but obviously situated properly)?

2)Are there any 'additional' sensors needed for the turbo/intercooler on this conversion?

3) Can I use any intercooler?

1) Yes, you may need some alloy sleeves to connect bends.
2) I used the ACV turbo on mine which involved no sensors, Brooksters your man when using the Volvo turbo but I think not.
3)Yes, bigger the better.
I've been running mine for 6 months with no issues apart from the temp rising on long journeys. So while you are doing it maybe consider fitting an oil coller which is my next mod.

Fit two steel headgaskets , wouldn't re-bore you will be adding expense etc.

On the 16VT Golfs i know that have been running two steel head gasket 1.5BAR can be achieved with not leaked issues. And they are pushing 350BHP from a Petrol Engine with the compression lowered to 9.5 : 1

The compression on a 2.4D is arround 22 : 1 as standard and an ACV is arround 19.5 :1

So two ACV Steel Head gaskets will lower the compression to arround 20 : 1 T:

Sensors are not required and fueling is adjusted manually at the Injection Pump.

You will need a Boost Gauge and Controller .

i've got a few books from the US were the Turbo conversion were very popular on VW Rabbit Diesel Engines in the 80's before TDI's were used.

I've been busing finishing MK1 Golf for the new race season so havn't made any progress for a while.

 

[JonT4]

It was only today that I realised how little I know about diesel engines! The heads on diesels don't have valve chambers like on a petrol and so cannot be reworked. The ports still can however. I had a play with the exhaust manifold today. To give you an idea of the kind of restrictive steps that are present I took a pic. The first shows the step on one port and the other shows the step removed prior to polishing.

These steps are restrictive on the inlet manifold, exhaust manifold and both sides of the head.

Brookster: Are these guys running 2 gaskets one on top of the other?

 

[4motion]

I forgot to mention the ACV headgasket has less waterholes than the AAB?! When you buy your headgaskets compare them properly, the motorfactor should have a book showing a picutre of each one available. I built mine with a steel ACV & had to switch it later for a steel AAB due to pressure in the coolant, a proper doh moment. In short check the coolant holes..

 

[Brookster]

If you can't get Steel AAB Gasket , you can make the additional coolant hole in the ACV Gasket.

Just two gaskets required , which is 1no plus 1no additional spaces the head 1.4mm extra to lower compression.

 

[Compo]

Learning loads here... T:
But...

Why lower? Surely a higher compression means a bigger bang and therefore more gas to be expelled, spinning the blades faster?

.

 

[JonT4]

You don't need to lower the compression ratio but the lower the ratio the less stress on internal components. Obviously the less power too as you say. Lower compression also induces lag but at the end of the day we're not building race engines we are just looking for more power whilst retaining reliabilty.

 

[JonT4]

Well I have ported my inlet and exhaust manifolds. The head is sat on the bench ready for stripping down and porting. What is interesting is that I already have a steel gasket fitted. The van only had one previous owner and has a fully documented VW service history with all receipts and there is no mention anywhere that it ever had the gasket changed. On the log book it is an AJA code but on the inlet manifold it is ABB.:*

Anyway, I found this and thought it may be of some use to someone.
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=4391.0

I intend to fit an EGT gauge as it will make setting the engine up reasonbly simple to do. Has anyone fitted an oil cooler to the 2.4D before?

 

[4motion]

I'm in the motions of finding the correct sandwich plate to fit the 2.4, when i find one that fits i'll let you know. As for EGT gauges i'm going to fit a cheap aero one & leave it in the glovebox as it will only be for setting up. I'll braze the prope into the egr blanking plate T:

http://shop.airworlduk.com/egt-gauge--square--single--225-300836-982-p.asp

 

[JonT4]

I'm in the motions of finding the correct sandwich plate to fit the 2.4, when i find one that fits i'll let you know. As for EGT gauges i'm going to fit a cheap aero one & leave it in the glovebox as it will only be for setting up. I'll braze the prope into the egr blanking plate T:

http://shop.airworlduk.com/egt-gauge--square--single--225-300836-982-p.asp

Clever idea.A: I don't fancy fitting a sandwhich plate given the location of the filter. Could be a royal PITA.